New ZJ in the family

Five-N9ne said:
Stock XJ front shaft can fit.

As to the bumper, JCR has a decent one. The problem with ZJs is putting winch bumpers make them look like Jay Leno’s chin. JCR has the lowest profile that still saves you some approach angle.
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Eh. I'll pass on jcr. Thinking about just building my own. You are right though the underbite is real with winch bumpers

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The arb with the grille guard kind of helps that underbite look and mounts the winch under it.
I was going to go with the blue lake Offroad before I sold my zj
IMG_0371.jpg

It’s a bit more subtle chin.

Also the Hanson Offroad with stinger

IMG_0372.jpg

Theyre all pricey though.


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Snboarder113 said:
The arb with the grille guard kind of helps that underbite look and mounts the winch under it.
I was going to go with the blue lake Offroad before I sold my zj
View attachment 299728

It’s a bit more subtle chin.

Also the Hanson Offroad with stinger

View attachment 299729

Theyre all pricey though.


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I found some plans online so really might end up building my own. It will have the underbite but at the end of the day I can deal with it. I'm taking the plans and just looking the ends to make a proper stubby. Screenshot_20180421-131127.jpgScreenshot_20180421-131120.jpg Flatland 4x4 sells their prints for the bumper and I'm just going to do everything except the ends.

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Umm so weird thing. Doing my insurance for the Jeep and the VIN runs as a grand Cherokee limited orvis. Obviously this doesn't make sense since the orvis came in mossy green with tow hooks so I called contacted Chrysler and it looks like it was a special order orvis where the original customer scrapped the limited color and went with bright white with the better clear coat package. Original owner also zilched 5 front tow hooks that cane standard with the orvis. Kind of odd but cool to kow my Jeep is 1 in 10000 made and 1 in even less left on the road.

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Strodinator said:
Umm so weird thing. Doing my insurance for the Jeep and the VIN runs as a grand Cherokee limited orvis. Obviously this doesn't make sense since the orvis came in mossy green with tow hooks so I called contacted Chrysler and it looks like it was a special order orvis where the original customer scrapped the limited color and went with bright white with the better clear coat package. Original owner also zilched 5 front tow hooks that cane standard with the orvis. Kind of odd but cool to kow my Jeep is 1 in 10000 made and 1 in even less left on the road.

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So basically he wanted an Orvis that didn't look or function as an Orivs :thinking:
 
Really leaning to a Rubicon Express Budget boost just because I don't want to deal with driveshaft issues and this won't be a crawler. Any experience with this?

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I ran a budget boost on my old zj to clear 31s. It’s fine. Just tall enough that you’ll be messing up the side bolster of the driver seat climbing in and out. Not tall enough to need steps.

2” and 31s on left 4.5” and 33s on right
IMG_1201.jpg


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Snboarder113 said:
I ran a budget boost on my old zj to clear 31s. It’s fine. Just tall enough that you’ll be messing up the side bolster of the driver seat climbing in and out. Not tall enough to need steps.

2” and 31s on left 4.5” and 33s on right
View attachment 302685


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I have side steps so no biggie there 🤷. Damn that 4.5 looks good though. That's just a lot more work. Driveshafts, control arms, track hard, sway bar links.

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I was at 5.5 on my old 5.2 ZJ and never had driveshaft vibrations with the stock rear shaft. If you have that Rzeppa joint style CV front shaft you’ll want to get rid of that shit and go to a true u-joint style pinion yoke, but other than that your stock driveshafts should be 100% fine. The wheelbase is long enough and the rear shaft is long enough that there’s very little advantage to running an SYE for driveline correction. If you do end up choosing to go SYE, auto TJ front shafts are nearly perfect bolt in rear driveshafts


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Five-N9ne said:
I was at 5.5 on my old 5.2 ZJ and never had driveshaft vibrations with the stock rear shaft. If you have that Rzeppa joint style CV front shaft you’ll want to get rid of that shit and go to a true u-joint style pinion yoke, but other than that your stock driveshafts should be 100% fine. The wheelbase is long enough and the rear shaft is long enough that there’s very little advantage to running an SYE for driveline correction. If you do end up choosing to go SYE, auto TJ front shafts are nearly perfect bolt in rear driveshafts


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I know I'll have to scrap the front driveshaft. Just thinking on a budget at the point when I want to build this one when I have another in the shop completely torn apart.

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Five-N9ne said:
I was at 5.5 on my old 5.2 ZJ and never had driveshaft vibrations with the stock rear shaft. If you have that Rzeppa joint style CV front shaft you’ll want to get rid of that shit and go to a true u-joint style pinion yoke, but other than that your stock driveshafts should be 100% fine. The wheelbase is long enough and the rear shaft is long enough that there’s very little advantage to running an SYE for driveline correction. If you do end up choosing to go SYE, auto TJ front shafts are nearly perfect bolt in rear driveshafts


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Plus I also have an auto front tj driveshaft just sitting in my shop 🤔

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Five-N9ne said:
I was at 5.5 on my old 5.2 ZJ and never had driveshaft vibrations with the stock rear shaft. If you have that Rzeppa joint style CV front shaft you’ll want to get rid of that shit and go to a true u-joint style pinion yoke, but other than that your stock driveshafts should be 100% fine. The wheelbase is long enough and the rear shaft is long enough that there’s very little advantage to running an SYE for driveline correction. If you do end up choosing to go SYE, auto TJ front shafts are nearly perfect bolt in rear driveshafts


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Fun stuff I went under there and realized it was the good front driveshaft. Of course it's CV at the axles because of the all time 4wd but the driveshaft itself is ujoint at both ends.

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I was sitting doing wiring on the TJ and got fed up so for the time being I started to swap the budget boost from my TJ onto the ZJ. IMG_20180621_205912.jpg all I am doing for now is the spacers and maybe my wheels and tires. I just did the front for the night since I have to get to work in the morning. My abs light is now tripped though. Any thoughts? It's obd1 so I can't just scan it with what I have.

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Also I trimmed the front bumper and got rid of the ugly plastic that hangs down. I will need to relocate the evap canister now though.
Before:
IMG_20180621_155810.jpgIMG_20180621_155814_01.jpgIMG_20180621_155814.jpgIMG_20180621_155821.jpg
After:
IMG_20180621_162921.jpgIMG_20180621_162932.jpgIMG_20180621_162944.jpg. Not my finest work but I'm happy with it. I just used a heat gun and a utility knife and it cut through like butter.

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Check that you didn’t knock something into the tone ring. Sometimes the sensors will trigger if there’s metal schmeg in between the tone ring and the sensor


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