It is important to keep recommendations and opinions in prospective.
Thanks for following up, Drew. :thumb:
It is important to keep recommendations and opinions in prospective.
Sounds to me like a set of plush ride coils, a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks and F/R lower control arms should fit the bill! :thumb:
In my budget-conscious world, is there any reason I need to spend $420 on a pair of EVO adjustable lower control arms or would I be fine with the Rock Krawler ($279) or something else? I understand the EVO's are adjustable in place. Are the others as well? The price difference could basically pay for an AEV ProCal I planned to purchase.
If you haven't already bought springs, here's a pretty good deal on some plush rides!
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=28874
Thank you, but I had already pulled the trigger on a set. My son and I have been slowly working to remove the front springs and we found two spacers, the procomp(?) 1.75" spacer and a 3/4" additional spacer at the top of the front spring. Is this 3/4" spacer stock or should we remove it as well? Sorry for the newbie question. Also, if you look at our brake lines, it appears they installed some sort of lowering bracket on the front but kept the stock lines. Can you verify? Should I go ahead and replace the brake lines with longer ones at this time? Thanks.
The 3/4 spacer is stock and you should leave it in.
As for the brake lines, I think you'll be find with the drop bracket I would just zip tie the slack to the body of the shock. If you are getting new shocks as well, I'd try to find a place that you can flex your Jeep and check to make sure your brake lines are not about to break.
:thumb: Thanks for that tidbit.
The only reason I thought about this is I cannot let the axle droop fully; I'm supporting it on jack stands while working since the brake lines are too taught to allow full droop after disconnecting the track bar axle-side. I was hoping to allow droop and pop out the springs, but I resorted to renting some spring compressors. I don't think there is any slack that will need to be zip tied to the shock.
Ah since that's the case then yes I'd get longer brake lines as well. I think they are fairly inexpensive from Crown.
Something to consider with these being stainless is welding them will suck. The synergys are standard (zinc coated) steel and will weld with standard mig easily. Stainless should be tig welded and im not sure what filler rod you would use for the 2 dissimiliar metals. (lca bracket being standard steel)
My jk came with the dreaded cam bolts as well. After the 2nd or 3rd time having to re adjust after a little wheeling, i ended up just welding the "cam washers" to the lca's. My cam washers are almost 50% thicker than the lca thickness so I wasnt worried about those failing. Then use a bur tool to round out the square side of the hole.
Regardless of which washer you go with, you want to make sure your axle is strait before you weld it up, especially if you don't have adjustable lowers. Be prepared to smoke your bushings if you do more than tack in place, drop arms and finish weld. A little heat may be your friend on removing the seized bolt, but you'll probably need bushings either way so not a big loss.