New Oil Filter Design For 3.6L

GuillaumeC91

GuillaumeC91

New member
Hey guys, did a quick search for this but haven't found anything.

I'm sure not the only one who's noticed this but as I was doing my oil change yesterday I found a product update notice in my WIX oil filter box that explained how the cartridge type oil filters for the 3.6L received an update. The update consists of a bypass valve at the top of the filter where the old filters used to have a pass-through design. My guess is that since the filter is on top of the engine, this valve is to stop the oil (and possibly the junk it carries) from going all the way back down through the engine when it is stopped. Here's a few pictures of the new valve and of the update notice.

Might be a good idea to crack open the box before taking your next filter home when you plan on changing your oil! :yup::twocents:

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2014s have the new filters, and thanks to chrysler messing around with the design, there are now cracked oil cooler housings everywhere. Keep your eye out for leaking oil under the oil filter location, and that includes the dealer doing your oil changes.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
2014s have the new filters, and thanks to chrysler messing around with the design, there are now cracked oil cooler housings everywhere. Keep your eye out for leaking oil under the oil filter location, and that includes the dealer doing your oil changes.
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Really? How come? On my '13 the new design actually made it easier to snap in place on the housing cap. Other than that though, the cartridge looks like the same.

OverlanderJK said:
Where was this thread two weeks ago when we needed it? Lol
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Haha sorry! My oil didn't need to be changed back then :p


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GuillaumeC91 said:
Really? How come? On my '13 the new design actually made it easier to snap in place on the housing cap. Other than that though, the cartridge looks like the same.



Haha sorry! My oil didn't need to be changed back then :p


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You better run out and check which oil filter you have on your rig. The wrong one will give you all sorts of oil pressure problems, and there have been numerous reports of the dealers using the wrong one.

2012-2013 have the "old style" and 2014s have the new style. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!!!!!!


2012-2013

2013Filter_zpse184b121.jpg

2014

2014Filter_zpsaf2f6969.jpg

Again, you cannot use one on the other...it may SEEM like they fit (which is why dealers installed them) but they do NOT, and you'll have CELs and possible engine issues running the wrong one.
 
Doh, I may have misread your post.....I left the above one alone just so that others can make sure they are running the right filter.

Apparently chrysler changed something in the housing itself (not the filter) that made it much weaker and prone to breaking when the filter is installed (including from the factory) resulting in cracked housings and serious oil leaks.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
Doh, I may have misread your post.....I left the above one alone just so that others can make sure they are running the right filter.

Apparently chrysler changed something in the housing itself (not the filter) that made it much weaker and prone to breaking when the filter is installed (including from the factory) resulting in cracked housings and serious oil leaks.
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Ooofff! Don't scare me like that haha. I was thinking to myself "But... But... It's the same part number..." :eek::confused:

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NFRs2000NYC said:
You better run out and check which oil filter you have on your rig. The wrong one will give you all sorts of oil pressure problems, and there have been numerous reports of the dealers using the wrong one.

2012-2013 have the "old style" and 2014s have the new style. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE!!!!!!


2012-2013

View attachment 88886

2014

View attachment 88887

Again, you cannot use one on the other...it may SEEM like they fit (which is why dealers installed them) but they do NOT, and you'll have CELs and possible engine issues running the wrong one.
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We just did this on someone's jeep and you get the oil pressure light and a CEL. The filter was getting oil and the jeep ran normal (besides the limp mode over 3k rpm).
 
OverlanderJK said:
We just did this on someone's jeep and you get the oil pressure light and a CEL. The filter was getting oil and the jeep ran normal (besides the limp mode over 3k rpm).
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Ouch... Where's Eddie? We need to pin this thread. This sounds about as bad as your coolant turning to concrete lol.

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GuillaumeC91 said:
Ouch... Where's Eddie? We need to pin this thread. This sounds about as bad as your coolant turning to concrete lol.

Don't follow me, I'm lost too! O|||||||O
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It's not really an issue. You'll get codes right away and I can't see how someone could have damage to there motor unless they don't do anything about the CEL or oil pressure light. And not to mention it's hard to drive since it'll go into limp mode.
 
OverlanderJK said:
It's not really an issue. You'll get codes right away and I can't see how someone could have damage to there motor unless they don't do anything about the CEL or oil pressure light. And not to mention it's hard to drive since it'll go into limp mode.
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While there are many computer things preventing your engine from grenading itself, but it's still something peeps should be aware of, just like the coolant, dealers are clueless and I've read numerous people getting the wrong filter installed at the dealer or the parts guy giving people the wrong filter when they come to buy one. I do think that if you ran the motor with low oil pressure long enough you might cause some long term issues, but I'd hope the person will instantly investigate a CEL coupled with the oil idiot light. Now add that to the redesigned 2014 housing + oil cooler cracking issues (wranglers, durangos and chargers have all reported this issue already) and you've got another Chrysler winner. It's the ticking heads of 2014 :D
 
Maybe the higher powers would consider adding this to the stickies, just rename the title to 2014 vs other 3.6L oil filters and what you need to know.

I'll update the thread as well with the cooler cracking side as well so peeps know what to look out for and how to try and prevent it.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
Maybe the higher powers would consider adding this to the stickies, just rename the title to 2014 vs other 3.6L oil filters and what you need to know.

I'll update the thread as well with the cooler cracking side as well so peeps know what to look out for and how to try and prevent it.
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Well when I started the thread I was actually unaware of the new filters for '14s. I was just pointing out the new design for my '13s 3.6L. Looks like both engines received a new filter design but they are not interchangeable.

Don't follow me, I'm lost too! O|||||||O
 
My 2014 has all the signs of it cracking, I changed oil now it leaks, pools by the canister and drips down the transmission. Has anyone replaced this part? Is there a stronger part that isn't chincy crap?
 
I ran into the different filter issue a couple weeks ago while changing the oil in my 2014 and my daughters 2013. Had to go back and get a different filter.


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My 2012 is in the shop at this moment for the second repair due to oil filter housing issue. Poor design. Plastic and easy to overtighten, and easy to misalign the o-ring.

First time was my fault for misaligning the o-ring. Oil sloshed out on top of the motor and then everywhere down around the sides of the transmission and gave me a scare cuz I was in the middle of nowhere and smelled the burning oil.

This time the dealer did the oil change and the crack was shortly thereafter. At least I had an idea what was happening and no panic.

It's a messy situation. Hope this gets it fixed . . .
 
jpone said:
My 2012 is in the shop at this moment for the second repair due to oil filter housing issue. Poor design. Plastic and easy to overtighten, and easy to misalign the o-ring.
First time was my fault for misaligning the o-ring. Oil sloshed out on top of the motor and then everywhere down around the sides of the transmission and gave me a scare cuz I was in the middle of nowhere and smelled the burning oil.
This time the dealer did the oil change and the crack was shortly thereafter. At least I had an idea what was happening and no panic.
It's a messy situation. Hope this gets it fixed . . .
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I hate seeing plastic on something that gets repeated use. Who the hell uses a torque wrench on an oil change? I guess we all do now. Ive done pretty good with copper crush washers and reasonable torque. It calls for 25 NM Which breaks down to about 18 ft/lb. So a torque wrench, 3" extension and a 1 1/8" socket I think.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228507&d=1364497815
 
Don't use a torque wrench on the oil filter housing. Stop tightening as soon as the filter cap seats and there should be no problem. Once the oring seats stop tightening.


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pahlbfishn said:
Don't use a torque wrench on the oil filter housing. Stop tightening as soon as the filter cap seats and there should be no problem. Once the oring seats stop tightening.


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This^^

I always put a liberal amount of oil on the oring and the threads of the cap and tighten by hand until it's seated... never had a leak or a problem cracking the fragile filter housing


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