New Gears and Shafts and more, now new vib at 60mph

Rubiwho

Rubiwho

New member
Happy Thanksgiving everyone,

So my story is, just had some work done on my Jeep. Regeared to 5.13's for my 37's and put 1310 driveshafts on, had sleeves and c gussets welded in and one, and new axle shafts front and rear . So all is great, love the gearing and job looks well done. So I hit hwy speeds and between 60 and 70 mph i feel and see my mirrors vibrating. Not constant but kind of like 2 airplane engines or fans are out of sync. Like a wow wow wow wow "feel"... no sound. I'm thinking driveshafts aren't balanced. Any thoughts, could gears do this too during a break in period or RCV grease packed too much on one side or rear axle warped. I have the 3.5" AEV lift, so castor and all angles i "think" are still good. Im thinking i shoud do one mod at a time... :thinking:
 
First off, you definitely have driveline vibrations. Second, there are two things that happened here, 1.) you more than likely have too much caster set on your front axle. 2.) You are feeling this now as your front drive shaft is now spinning a crazy fast 5.13 times for every one revolution of your tires. I would start by setting your caster back to a factory +4°. If you still have vibrations after that, you may need to get your shaft rebalanced.
 
Thanks for the help. I am running the AEV drop down brackets so I was thinking my castor is back to stock, I'll will check it. Should the rear be set too?

Also Eddie, in your write up on setting castor you mention setting it back to 4% but it "may" add vibration to aftermarket shafts. Seems I've added the vib with my new shafts.

Overlander, I just got it back from the shop so I was hoping they put it all back together per specs. I will re torque myself too.


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Rubiwho said:
Thanks for the help. I am running the AEV drop down brackets so I was thinking my castor is back to stock, I'll will check it.
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It'll be close to stock but not quite. Unfortunately, being that you don't have adjustable control arms, you will not be able to make any adjustments to your caster. What shaft did you get? Could be that it is a bit out of balance and is being exaggerated due to your high gear ratio.

Should the rear be set too?
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No. You do not set caster for a rear shaft, you set it's pinion angle to be in line with it and this is only really necessary when installing an aftermarket driveshaft. Unfortunately, you will not be able to do this unless you have adjustable rear upper control arms.

Also Eddie, in your write up on setting castor you mention setting it back to 4% but it "may" add vibration to aftermarket shafts. Seems I've added the vib with my new shafts.
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It's been a while since I wrote that but, restoring your caster back to a stock +4° should help eliminate vibrations. More would make your Jeep handle better but would increase the chances of you getting vibes. Less would definitely help get rid of them but, at the cost of handling.
 
I got the Tom Woods 1310's, yes with the gold seal u joints, front and rear. It's what was recommended, but from what I've been reading it looks like I'll need to get spicer joints in the future too. I hope I didn't make a wrong decision with those, the 1350's were over kill with the wheeling I plan to do. I do want want the jeep to be stronger than stock.

Are the Tom Woods 1310 DS stronger than stock?

The control arms are on the list to get. I was just pacing myself, looks like they may show up sooner that expected.
Thanks
 
You'd be better off getting adj CA's. that way you could fine tune the vibes out up to a reasonable castor, BUT , if your drive shafts are out of balance ( very possible) you won't know that's the cause for sure without adj ca's or takuing them to a driveline shop and having them rebalanced. Change those freakin joints for sure, TW buys them from China for a couple bucks ea per 1000.
 
Also, if you have the 3.5 set in the correct drop bracket holes, try setting them in the 2.5 hole for less numerically castor to get you to 4* -4.5*. Do you have an alignment readout?
 
Also again, 1310's are actually weaker than a stock shaft/joint. Stock shaft is listed as a 1330 joint I believe. Half way to a 1350
 
mkjeep said:
Also again, 1310's are actually weaker than a stock shaft/joint. Stock shaft is listed as a 1330 joint I believe. Half way to a 1350
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Then why would one do 1310's, I'm starting feel this was a complete waste of money?

Should I feel good about this purchase?
 
Rubiwho said:
I got the Tom Woods 1310's, yes with the gold seal u joints, front and rear. It's what was recommended, but from what I've been reading it looks like I'll need to get spicer joints in the future too. I hope I didn't make a wrong decision with those, the 1350's were over kill with the wheeling I plan to do. I do want want the jeep to be stronger than stock.
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Yeah, I had a feeling. I know that Tom Woods shafts are trendy but you wouldn't be the first person that I knew who got one that wasn't balanced well right out of the box. Being that you have AEV drop brackets installed and should be close to stock caster, I would find a local driveline shop rebalance what you have. If you can find one with a digital balancer, all the better.

Are the Tom Woods 1310 DS stronger than stock?
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Unfortunately, no. The one u-joint a factory shaft has is actually a 1330 and is technically stronger than a 1310.

EDIT: I think mkjeep pretty much covered all this :)
 
Rubiwho said:
Then why would one do 1310's, I'm starting feel this was a complete waste of money?

Should I feel good about this purchase?
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Because it is a very common u-joint that was used widely on old TJ's. It was quick and easy to just carry it over to the JK when it came out. For the most part, it'll get the job done.
 
Brankz said:
Not to be a hater but are you Wikipedia? You have a answer for any question of the members.
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I've been waiting to say something. Negative Nancy wants everyone else's jeep to be like his. I don't know everything, but what I do know is that every Jeep should be different, the trails would definitely be boring if they all were the same.
 
JeepKeeper said:
I've been waiting to say something. Negative Nancy wants everyone else's jeep to be like his. I don't know everything, but what I do know is that every Jeep should be different, the trails would definitely be boring if they all were the same.
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You picked this up from him asking if everything was re-torqued? Impressive.

I've known Ms. Negative Nancy for a while now and he's never said my jeep should be like his. Or anybody else's as far as I know. He does want my coilovers though so maybe he wants his jeep to be like mine. Or maybe he wants mine to be like his without the coilovers? I'm confused now.

Any chance he was trying to help the OP and his situation? Like when he answered your question about your sound bar?

Welcome to Wayalife!


"Yes I love jeepin on a budget because I can show my driving skills more that others with coil overs and shit"
 
Rubiwho said:
Then why would one do 1310's, I'm starting feel this was a complete waste of money?

Should I feel good about this purchase?
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Eh, just call chinawoods for u-joints and keep a crate of em in your jeep for backups.:thumb::cheesy:
 
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