In all seriousness, most brake kits will clear 17’s as long as the back spacing is appropriate which, most are since you’ll end up going that direction for a bigger tire anyway. And unless you think you’ll upgrade to 40’s and are gonna be hauling ass or carrying a ton of weight the stock JL brakes are more than adequate.I appreciate the feedback! I'll stick to 17s!
the stock stabilizer is more than adequate for the job, I have EVO long arm /coil overs on the JLU with stock stabilzer, 37's on 17" KMC beadlocks no issue.Here's the list I have so far:
Clayton Off-Road
Jeep Wrangler 3.5" OVERLAND+ Lift Kit 2018+, JL / JL 4xE
Steering System
Currectlync JL/JT Heavy Duty Steering System RockJock 4x4
RockJock 4x4
Wheels
KMC Grenade Crawl Beadlock 18x9 10mm offset 5.38 backspacing (I'm also open to opinions on going with a 17" wheel rather than 18. I'm only considering 18s in the event I go with a big brake kit in the front in the future.)
Tires
Nitto Trail or Ridge Grapplers or Toyo Open Country R/T or Mickey Thompson Baja Boss
Tire Carrier
Evo Heavy duty tire carrier
Bumpers
Front bumper - Evo Quarter Pounder
Rear Bumper - None
I’d just do them both and be done with it. You’d be surprised at how long they CAN survive if you’re not playing hard but… once they go it’s quick and you’ll be caught in a pickle. Also they’re about as thin as a soda can and will pretzel faster than a Russian gymnast looking for some extra income.One other thing I was told is that it would be a good idea to upgrade or change out my front driveshaft. Do people also replace their rear driveshaft at the same time when they go with a 3.5" lift and 37s?
I was unaware of this. Thanks! Saves me money.It has been mentioned in this forum that the stabilizer which comes with the Jeep works remarkably well, and may work better than aftermarket stabilizers. Jeep depends on this stabilizer to avoid warranty service.
LOL! This made me laugh, thanks for that. What sort of budget should I allot for driveshafts?I’d just do them both and be done with it. You’d be surprised at how long they CAN survive if you’re not playing hard but… once they go it’s quick and you’ll be caught in a pickle. Also they’re about as thin as a soda can and will pretzel faster than a Russian gymnast looking for some extra income.
Link?and will pretzel faster than a Russian gymnast looking for some extra income.
Depends. If you go aftermarket like Adams or JE Reel then expect $1000+ for a pair. Personally I’d have a local drive line shop build them. They’ll be your first go-to for a service and rebuild and it will likely cost much less, maybe even half. Also, I recommend NON Grease-able. Inspect and service them regularly (I do mine once a year) and you’ll be fine.LOL! This made me laugh, thanks for that. What sort of budget should I allot for driveshafts?
Man it was a one time thing… it was dark and I was drunk.Link?
Must've been a little black dark scar tired divide...Man it was a one time thing… it was dark and I was drunk.
Something about drilling 20+ holes into my brand new Jeep makes me cringe. I looked up Rusty's fascia and it's awesome. But, man, I can't bring myself to drill into the Jeep yet. Maybe I'll just get the stubby bumper and hold off on the 3 piece fascia.the stock stabilizer is more than adequate for the job, I have EVO long arm /coil overs on the JLU with stock stabilzer, 37's on 17" KMC beadlocks no issue.
17" wheels as mentioned, unless you're going with a 40"+ tire then you'd probably want to go with a 20" wheel
Rear bumper delete is a good look, take a look at Rusty's rear fascia cover to help protect the corners
Yeah. it's cringe, took me a long time to get the drill out lolSomething about drilling 20+ holes into my brand new Jeep makes me cringe. I looked up Rusty's fascia and it's awesome. But, man, I can't bring myself to drill into the Jeep yet. Maybe I'll just get the stubby bumper and hold off on the 3 piece fascia.