Need vs. Want - Talk me out of UD 44/60 for new JT

SAF

New member
Hey, guys!

After building my 60/60 JT (see my other thread), my friends leaned on me to start adventuring with them, and unfortunately I didn't want to make the 392 or my 2 door rubi 'overland' rigs, so I sold the 2 door and snagged another JT. 2.5" game changer, Dobinson MRR shocks (this is what happens when you hang around Toyota guys and I'm not mad at it. Those things are some of the best shocks I've ever had), SmartCap, Go Fast Camper tent, genesis dual battery, ARB Classic Deluxe, Method bead grip 706, 35" Toyo AT III. The thing works great with plenty of travel.

We hit Arkansas this weekend, and by hit I mean my brand new JT was definitely sliding and scratching on the rocks. However, I found myself wondering how my factory axles would hold up if we had been climbing rocks rather than descending (4lo and my brakes did their job).

Because I'm a fan of mitigating any future breakage, I couldn't help but wonder if I should axle swap this thing, too. I feel that extra strength and upgraded brakes would be a wise investment especially since extra weight and the need to hit all sorts of terrain is present. I plan on doing this more often and putting lots of miles on this truck.

Front - UD 44 AdvanTek
-Beefier all around (positive)
-No full float (negative)
-No FAD (positive, depending on who you ask, but one less thing that can fail)
-Need to swap factory brakes or pay to upgrade brakes (negative)
-Inner axles should be easier to find or replace given the non-proprietary nature (positive)
-No ARB Air Locker available in this, meaning I'd have to risk the unit (e-locker) failing which I've seen a lot of lately (negative)

Rear - UD 60
-Also much beefier (positive)
-Full float (positive)
-Upgraded brakes (positive)
-plug and play (positive)
-ARB Air Locker available (positive)
-More expensive given the nature (negative)

9 positives, 3 negatives for the gist of the swap, not including:
-the price of around $15k for a 44/60 (negative x2)
-I can retain my current suspension/wheels/etc. (positive)

I wouldn't mind a 60/60 swap, especially since that will get me what I'm wanting, but that's just more than I want to spend right now. Let me know your thoughts, please! Thanks.

Edit: I already have a switchpro wired up and wouldn't mind selling the ARB portable compressor for a permanent, bed-mounted one like I have in my other JT in order to utilize air lockers.

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For 35’s the stock axles should hold up just fine. I’m going to say buy once cry once. Go the 60/60 route. 🤷‍♂️ UD or Fusion then your ready for 40’s 😁
 
With just 35's, I would say you should be fine with factory axle. However, if you intend go full retard, pedal to metal going up stupid climbs on slimy rocks and on a regular basis, anything and everything can break, even 60/60s.
 
With just 35's, I would say you should be fine with factory axle. However, if you intend go full retard, pedal to metal going up stupid climbs on slimy rocks and on a regular basis, anything and everything can break, even 60/60s.
Tropic Thunder taught me to never go full retard.

Honestly my buddy with a triple locked 80 series and 37s rolling over all the fun stuff made me jealous this weekend. But, I am very impressed with all the travel I have without worrying about ripping fenders off or getting sketchy with caster angles on factory control arm mounting locations/reaching the end of the control arm adjustment. If it ain't broke...
 
Tropic Thunder taught me to never go full retard.

Honestly my buddy with a triple locked 80 series and 37s rolling over all the fun stuff made me jealous this weekend. But, I am very impressed with all the travel I have without worrying about ripping fenders off or getting sketchy with caster angles on factory control arm mounting locations/reaching the end of the control arm adjustment. If it ain't broke...
Well, that said, drive smart, save your money and upgrade IF or when you need to. You can still drive home just fine with a bent rear axle shaft flange and if you're really that worried about your front axle, upgrade your shafts to RCVs. I would say chromoly with full circle clips but I don't know of any for the JL/JT.
 
Well, that said, drive smart, save your money and upgrade IF or when you need to. You can still drive home just fine with a bent rear axle shaft flange and if you're really that worried about your front axle, upgrade your shafts to RCVs. I would say chromoly with full circle clips but I don't know of any for the JL/JT.
Got it! Just checked out your c-clip vs full circle clip post from 2012. I think wheeling, breaking, and fixing as I go might be the move here. Interesting that there aren't any chromoly full clip u joints. You'd think with how long this platform has been out there surely something would have been cooked up by now. Makes you wonder what paths people take that may have dictated a lack of necessity for such a product, or what other products seem more appealing. Maybe those RCVs?
 
Got it! Just checked out your c-clip vs full circle clip post from 2012. I think wheeling, breaking, and fixing as I go might be the move here. Interesting that there aren't any chromoly full clip u joints. You'd think with how long this platform has been out there surely something would have been cooked up by now. Makes you wonder what paths people take that may have dictated a lack of necessity for such a product, or what other products seem more appealing. Maybe those RCVs?
The biggest problem is all the different axle configurations that Jeep offers now AND with FAD. The cost to make shafts for each type of axle and even each width is absolutely cost prohibitive. Deleting the FAD is the only way you can get RCVs and not even on every axle option if I recall correctly.
 
You can have a FAD with RCV's..Have them for my JT Rubicon.

OP..just a thought but you could sell what you have for ? 4-5K maybe?? Then get ECG 60's with big brakes FF etc for about $14k
 
Well, that said, drive smart, save your money and upgrade IF or when you need to. You can still drive home just fine with a bent rear axle shaft flange and if you're really that worried about your front axle, upgrade your shafts to RCVs. I would say chromoly with full circle clips but I don't know of any for the JL/JT.
Revolution is finally releasing front chromoly shaft options for all models. Should be available soon 🤘🏼
 
Revolution is finally releasing front chromoly shaft options for all models. Should be available soon 🤘🏼
Slick. I just put a set of their 5.13s in the 392.

But yeah, I've been looking at knuckles, RCVs, etc. I get what folks mean when they say you can just buy a new axle setup for these prices.

Also, I forgot Dynatrac offers the 44/60 setup with ARB lockers, but no full float 60 in that kit. Trade offs
 
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