Need help with vac pump relocation

Is there anything needed to keep the motor up besides rotating the mount? Have you had it pop back down after use?

Not sure if you have this or not...

From the EVO instructions:

1. Remove bolt from the front mount of the swaybar motor. (long bolt that goes through the rubber isolator.
2. The motor will now freely rotate on the axis of the swaybar.
3. Rotate the swaybar motor rearward as much as possible.
4. With a ½” diameter drill mark off ½” from tip down on the drill with tape.
5. In the new mounting hole, drill from the passenger side toward the center of the vehicle ½” deep
(up to tape mark) into new mounting hole. DO NOT DRILL MORE THAN ½”. You may need to loosen the two bolts on the passenger side frame rail that holds the swaybar to the frame to get your drill to drill straight into the new mounting hole.
6. Using the same bolt removed earlier install through the factory rubber isolator and into the newly drilled hole.
 
not exactly. this is NO cross member and there was no armor on a factory jk attached to it, only a plastic air dam. in fact, on the 07-09 JK's, the tabs holding it in place were super flimsy and just barely welded in place. it wasn't until 10 that the connections were beefed up with more welds.

much like a full width bumper made of plastic and one that offers no real protection, the only purpose of this bar was to satisfy mandated requirements. it offers no more strength and little to no protection to the sway bar disconnect motor.

I dont have a rubi so cant speak on the quality of this for sway protection, but mine is a 2007 and it is HEAVY and welded to all hell! will it take an impact at driving speed? I doubt it but MINE would easily hold the weight of my jeep (as I have actually used it one time to do so). Not sure if mine is different though. :thinking: and While its(mine) no DOM steel tubing it hass to add SOME level of frame support.

But I agree, its definitely not a critical component and as stated before, I just hacked mine off! :yup:
 
Not sure if mine is different though. :thinking: and While its(mine) no DOM steel tubing it hass to add SOME level of frame support.

Come to think of it, mine had the tow hitch to be pulled behind an RV welded to it also. So not sure if they added welds to beef it up. :thinking: Either way it was strong enough to pull 4,000 lbs at highway speeds.
 
Thankyou MTG for the instructions. I ended up have the shop I bought them from call evo and get them emailed also... Got the motor turned around . They didnt sent the right size bolts.. I have togo go buy some today. Hopefully have it done soon.
 
Well I finally got the bumper done last week after growing a pair and chopping the bar and relocating the disconnect motor. I have to say it is awesome the best looking and ground clearance I have seen. It was a pain in the a$$ with having no instructions and wrong hardware because i was installing it at some one else pad across town and took it took few days to do with the setbacks. It looks like Im not done because I cant put a 3/4" shackle in the ring. It just will not fit. I read about this from someone having the same problem alittle while back and thought their is no way they would still ship out stingers knowing there not right..:thinking: I will be getting a new one once they come out of production hopefully the holes will line up with ones I drilled for the first stinger. still a awesome bumper
 
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