Need help jeep down. Arms, bumpstop issues etc.

Pics of springs they way it would set with tires. Drivers looks out for sure.
 

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I’ll give it a shot! Any reason to set lowers at different lengths for crown in road? I ran across that topic. Anyway back under this thing!!
 
IMO you still need taller bump stops. I have been down this road with the same Rancho sport 4" kit. Over time my springs also bowed in toward the frame and ended up sagging and rubbing on the frame when flexing. I ended up changing to EVO 4" springs and 3" bump stops. With the old springs and 2" bumps the raised track bar bracket would contact the frame at full stuff and I think it also causes the springs to over compress which is probably why they sagged. As far as arm length I agree with WJCO.


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Interesting and thanks! I moved the arms 1/2” adjusting caster now.

Does caster have to be checked with tires on? I have the housing pushing the springs up and Jeep level without jackstands but no tires...
 
RUBEERCON said:
Interesting and thanks! I moved the arms 1/2” adjusting caster now.

Does caster have to be checked with tires on? I have the housing pushing the springs up and Jeep level without jackstands but no tires...
Click to expand...

Really should be checked with tires on and Jeep on the ground.
 
I suck at this...

I have tried to figure out setting caster and no matter what I read online I just dont get the separation and readings on the angle finder.

My lower arms were moved 1/2”’back to a length of 22-7/8, leaving only a few threads before I’m out of going shorter as an option.

The spring shown is on the drivers side, fully compressed and lifting the Jeep off jack stands. Also I have included a pic of no spring but as if it was still there and maxed out...

I can’t remember the caster readings and now it’s apart again. I’m going to add 1-3/4 to 2” of bump stop.

What is the spring pad supposed to look like in relation to the upper bump snub?
 

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RUBEERCON said:
I suck at this...

I have tried to figure out setting caster and no matter what I read online I just dont get the separation and readings on the angle finder.

My lower arms were moved 1/2”’back to a length of 22-7/8, leaving only a few threads before I’m out of going shorter as an option.

The spring shown is on the drivers side, fully compressed and lifting the Jeep off jack stands. Also I have included a pic of no spring but as if it was still there and maxed out...

I can’t remember the caster readings and now it’s apart again. I’m going to add 1-3/4 to 2” of bump stop.

What is the spring pad supposed to look like in relation to the upper bump snub?
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that you're having issues with this. It looks to me like your axle is too far forward. Regardless if the springs are installed or not, the arms are going to land the axle in the same spot which is why I find it easier to set up with the springs removed. Also, thus probably won't matter, but do you have the control arms on the right sides? It looks like the bend in the arms is incorrect. It may just be the photo though.
 
Thanks! It’s fun and sucks at the same time but I want to learn how to do everything myself. I have the cash and a shop but I still think I can do this!

I installed the lower arms with Rancho sticker facing out lol! But I would assume that’s the correct way. The jam nut is on the frame side. I only have 2 threads left so I can’t go back any further.

My angle finder reads 5deg on pinion flange and zero with a socket setting on the ball joints flattest surface. Edge of knuckle also reads zero.

I know I can bring uppers in and flatten out the spring pads but pinion won’t be pointing at the transfer case output shaft.
 
Caster readings are at ride height or close... I have the axle nut at the same height as the rear wheel center cap. On centers.
 
I believe you may need to center your axle first with the lowers again, then set castor with upper. If that isn’t enough castor, then pull in your lowers some. Or +\- some with the upper, to keep your axle centered as best as you can.

To achieve even more, need to adjust +\- the upper equally to keep axle centered still by either lengthening or shortening the lowers.

Make sure lowers are even on both sides also. Hope this helps and didn’t add to more confusion [emoji106]


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It’s confusing to me because my lowers are pretty much maxed out (short as they can go).

I know the lowers are for a 2-4” lift so I assume they are longer than stock when adjusted to the shortest setting?? Ill check that out but I have 4” springs so it shouldn’t be a factor.

I may take it to a shop next week, I’m about to give in. I’ll install the bumpstops to 3-3/4 and put it back together.

The coil springs look fine when removed. I plan on putting the drivers side spring on the passenger side to see if it looks any straighter when compressed on that side of the Jeep.

Thanks for the reply’s.
Steve
 
Just saw your message. Have you put the tires on and put it on the ground? Your axle will cycle different using a jack being that it raises it straight up. I think you are overthinking all this.
 
No sir. Yes I have over analyzed this for days...

I’ll put it together as Is and see what it looks like. Taking it to my alignment guy he knows the setup well enough to tell me if there is a problem. Can’t wait to get it back on the road!
 
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