Need help deciding on Fender Flares

cangro408

cangro408

New member
I’ve seen a lot of different option for fender flares need to get a set of good ones for my JKU. The only exterior mods i have so far is my Poison Spyder Brawler Bumper w/ Warn Zeon 10S, LOD signature series rockslider, and Teraflex tailgate hinge.

So far i’ve been looking at these fenders and can’t decide which is best:

Poison Spyder Crusher flares (standard width),

Nemesis Industries Notorious standard width fenders front/ standard dove tail rear,

Genright Fenders

hi clearance plastic type fenders I know many people use MCE as they will flex instead of breaking.

If anyone can point me in the right direction of what would best suit me I would appreciate it. I love the look of the tube style poison spyder, but many of my friends have told me Nemesis is the best, fits the body tighter, and follows body lines better. I don’t have much of preference just trying to see if anyone can show me pros and cons of each.

Does the nemesis flare edge shred your tire under flex, is the tubular style better for rubbing tires during flex is one more durable than the other. Thanks in advance for any help [emoji1303].

FYI as of right now I’m running a 2.5 inch Rubicon Express shocks and coil lift w/ rear track bar bracket (all links are stock except sway bar links), 35” Nitto Trail Grapplers on a 17” Method wheel, stocker fender flares, and the above mentioned exterior mods. I also plan to go bigger tires and higher lift some time down the road. Attached the most recent photo, have yet to install LOD sliders.

IMG_8599.jpg.




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cangro408 said:
I’ve seen a lot of different option for fender flares need to get a set of good ones for my JKU. The only exterior mods i have so far is my Poison Spyder Brawler Bumper w/ Warn Zeon 10S, LOD signature series rockslider, and Teraflex tailgate hinge.

So far i’ve been looking at these fenders and can’t decide which is best:

Poison Spyder Crusher flares (standard width),

Nemesis Industries Notorious standard width fenders front/ standard dove tail rear,

Genright Fenders

hi clearance plastic type fenders I know many people use MCE as they will flex instead of breaking.

If anyone can point me in the right direction of what would best suit me I would appreciate it. I love the look of the tube style poison spyder, but many of my friends have told me Nemesis is the best, fits the body tighter, and follows body lines better. I don’t have much of preference just trying to see if anyone can show me pros and cons of each.

Does the nemesis flare edge shred your tire under flex, is the tubular style better for rubbing tires during flex is one more durable than the other. Thanks in advance for any help [emoji1303].

FYI as of right now I’m running a 2.5 inch Rubicon Express shocks and coil lift w/ rear track bar bracket (all links are stock except sway bar links), 35” Nitto Trail Grapplers on a 17” Method wheel, stocker fender flares, and the above mentioned exterior mods. I also plan to go bigger tires and higher lift some time down the road. Attached the most recent photo, have yet to install LOD sliders.

View attachment 334440.




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I was initially going to buy the metalcloak flares. But I realized I'd never be able to go back to stock once the wells are trimmed. I'm just going to trim the stock fenders when I get there, per what the guys above me recommended.
 
As previously mentioned I'd start with cutting the stock flares. If you don't like them then you can look for some other options. Always best to start with free and go from there.
 
The steel ones (Poison Spider, Nemesis, etc.) look great. But they are pretty heavy, they rust, and they can damage your body panels if you nudge a tree, rock, etc.

The plastic options (eg MCE) are lighter weight, don’t rust, and tend to bend rather than transfer full force to body panels. They don’t look as nice, but that’s a subjective judgment. I have the MCE full width and I’ve been happy with them.

Cutting the stock fenders is free and entails the same benefits as MCE. I never cared for the look, personally. But again, that’s subjective.


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I also vote trim your factory flares. If you're really after an aftermarket flare, Bushwacker makes a nice set of flat plastic ones. :twocents:

jeep-wrangler-jk-4-door-bushwacker-flat-style-fender-flare-kit-2007-2013-23.jpg
 
I really like the poison spyder and Genright aluminum fenders. The really look the same and the aluminum is light weight.
 
fiend said:
The steel ones (Poison Spider, Nemesis, etc.) look great. But they are pretty heavy, they rust, and they can damage your body panels if you nudge a tree, rock, etc.

The plastic options (eg MCE) are lighter weight, don’t rust, and tend to bend rather than transfer full force to body panels. They don’t look as nice, but that’s a subjective judgment. I have the MCE full width and I’ve been happy with them.

Cutting the stock fenders is free and entails the same benefits as MCE. I never cared for the look, personally. But again, that’s subjective.


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from what i’ve researched the aluminum ones aren’t so bad and I don’t mind so much having to commit to a certain one due to cutting or making holes, most of the brands hide the cuts/ holes well. I do know that the nemesis ones use existing holes, but you have to widen them a bit and install a nut insert. I’m only hesitant on the MCE because there pretty expensive for being plastic, but i’ve heard great things about them.


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Can anyone attest to rust on either brand being common or maintenance that can be done especially when taking about powder coat i’ve been told MANY mixed things about powder coat maintenance and just rattle can maintenance whether one being better than the other


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i thought about cutting the fenders a while back if i do decide to cut them i would have to get rid of the inner honey comb looking thing ive seen in videos and possibly the inner fender. If i go with that option it will most likely be temporary just so i can wheel through the fall and maybe winter.

Anyone know how bad it could be to wheel with my current setup if i flex hard on the current stock fender. I’ve seen fenders pop off the way i look at it if it pops off it’s just plastic the fender flare will brake but not the body panel is this true?


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cangro408 said:
i thought about cutting the fenders a while back if i do decide to cut them i would have to get rid of the inner honey comb looking thing ive seen in videos and possibly the inner fender. If i go with that option it will most likely be temporary just so i can wheel through the fall and maybe winter.

Anyone know how bad it could be to wheel with my current setup if i flex hard on the current stock fender. I’ve seen fenders pop off the way i look at it if it pops off it’s just plastic the fender flare will brake but not the body panel is this true?


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In the rear yes just get rid of the inner liner and use some rubberized undercoating in the wheel well. Up front you can ditch the inner liner if you'd like but if not you can trim all the excess off. I'd recommend not removing the substructure though as it holds the fenders up and without it they look "droopy" to me. Again this is my personal preference.
 
jesse3638 said:
In the rear yes just get rid of the inner liner and use some rubberized undercoating in the wheel well. Up front you can ditch the inner liner if you'd like but if not you can trim all the excess off. I'd recommend not removing the substructure though as it holds the fenders up and without it they look "droopy" to me. Again this is my personal preference.
Click to expand...

MCE has this little gizmo to prevent the droop. Maybe someone could fashion something like this for trimmed OE fenders, or purchase the part separately from MCE. IMG_2842.JPG


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cangro408 said:
i think the link mentioned earlier in the thread which leads to the write up eric from wayalife did shows how to trim the support perfectly. That way you keep all the parts you need and do away with the overhang part of the fender flares


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Exactly, trimmed mine years ago and left front fender supports and most of front liner protecting engine area. I just trimmed overhanging lip.

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