My Mall Crawler Build
- Thread starter JK_Dave
- Start date
Ddays
Hooked
Interested in how these speakers perform. Is there that much of a difference? How bout with the doors off & top down?
I don't even bother with my radio running doorless. Maybe these will do the trick?
LOL - you don't have to wait for them to blow - they blow coming right from the factory! :cheesy:
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Lol true!
From what I have heard even just adding the dynamat to the back of even the stock speakers makes a huge improvement. As far as polks go I had them in my old car and they were amazing!
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
Thanks dude
I'm happy with them for the price. Not sure if you can see from the pic, but the magnet on the factory Alpine's is slightly larger than the Polk so I wasn't sure how that would impact the midrange. The Polk's are much clearer and I contribute that to the built in tweeter, which the Alpine is lacking. They do have a low-pass filter built in so they're definitely not meant to produce any low end. That's why I'm glad I'm upgrading my sub to handle those frequencies. I'm curious how much better they'd be if they could get more watts pushed to them, but I keep telling myself it's a Jeep and it's really not worth the money.
I'm actually pretty happy with the stock fronts and Polk rear combo. The sound is clear enough that you can still hear the music with the top and doors off (tested that today on the way to work). I've just got to extend the factory wires for the sub and I can get that buttoned up and back in the Jeep.
Ddays
Hooked
Thanks for the update. I've got the standard speakers as I just got the basic AM/FM/CD radio. Sometimes wish I would have upgraded there & got the Nav version. I would think those Polks would be a decent upgrade over what I have. Price looks right - $63.95 on Amazon for the pair.
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
Since I'm on an audio kick recently, I was looking at external amps that could power the sub. But my biggest requirement is that it's small and waterproof.
I found this watersports amp by JL Audio that is IPX6 certified and tiny despite putting out 300W @ 2ohms. This is what I'm going with in case the stock amp can't keep up. It will fit perfectly in that rear cubby underneath the flip up floor.
I found this watersports amp by JL Audio that is IPX6 certified and tiny despite putting out 300W @ 2ohms. This is what I'm going with in case the stock amp can't keep up. It will fit perfectly in that rear cubby underneath the flip up floor.
Ddays
Hooked
Thanks for the tip! Ugh, I thought I was pretty much done...here I go on another spending tangent...:crazyeyes:
wschilawski
Member
Like the setup for the doors - I wish I had some kind of wall space to do this but I have too many office cabinets. Might have to rearrange to do this during the summer months. :rock:
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
Thanks! I got the biggest, heavy duty shelf brackets that Lowe's sells and then some pipe insulation with the adhesive inside to cover the brackets. The only snag I have with them is that my studs are just wide enough that the rear door gaskets like to catch on the insulation and tear the insulation up a bit each time. No impact to the door gaskets though. I have less than $50 in the whole thing which is less than places like Quadratec sell a set for just 2 doors.
If I ever invest in some half doors, I might pick up those mounts where the doors hang by their hinges. Only downside is those are expensive and take up more room than I'm using now.
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
After evaluating all the options on the market, I decided to add an sPod to clean up all the wires in my engine bay. It was getting a bit ridiculous and when I had to swap my battery earlier this year, I couldn't even get the old one out without removing a bunch of wires. I also like the mounting location of the switches. I know some of you have negative opinions about the company so I'll leave it at that and forego any pics of the setup.
Also, after talking to some people about the best location to mount a fire extinguisher, I had Amazon ship me the Drake quick disconnect mount and front seat bracket. This will go in the passenger floorboard for easy access and to keep it hidden (at least when the doors are on). I'm less concerned about my new wiring starting a fire, but it's a good safety measure to have and you never know when someone else might need it in a pinch! I'll post up pics of this soon, just ran out of time to mount the seat bracket this weekend.
Also, after talking to some people about the best location to mount a fire extinguisher, I had Amazon ship me the Drake quick disconnect mount and front seat bracket. This will go in the passenger floorboard for easy access and to keep it hidden (at least when the doors are on). I'm less concerned about my new wiring starting a fire, but it's a good safety measure to have and you never know when someone else might need it in a pinch! I'll post up pics of this soon, just ran out of time to mount the seat bracket this weekend.
Clifford33
Caught the Bug
I also like that idea I'm needing a place for a second extinguisher and want it up front with me.
AllAmericanInfidel
Caught the Bug
Looks good! Does your feet hit it at all there? I'm looking to do an extinguisher up front, and was thinking of one that mounts to the side of the seat so it's out of the way until I need it. I like the mount you have and am just curious if it gets in the way at all there?
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
Sorry just saw this. Couple things to remember. I'm using a 2.5lb bottle, not the smaller 1lb. In a true fire situation, I want as much capacity as possible. A 5lb bottle is just too big so this was a good compromise.
A 2.5lb bottle won't fit on the side of the seat. It's just too big. My Maglite fits there just fine, but this guy is about 5 inches in diameter.
The picture here is with the seat pushed all the way back. My wife rides with the seat much farther up and the seat covers most of the bottle (but doesn't hit it). Other than losing a little room when you're first getting in the seat, you really don't notice it there. Just make sure your clamp bolts are pointed down like mine so you don't scratch your leg.
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
AEV tire carrier coming in 2 days! Early b'day present to myself. :rock: I guess I get to hack up my Evo crossmember cover now, but looking forward to a new project.
Also, just removed the factory sub and replaced it with the stock panel. I found a really interesting design in a floor shelf on ORV Innovations/ website that I like. It's too pricey for what it is, but it looks really well designed. I think I may copy a few designs and come up with my own version. The part I like best is they relocated the factory sub underneath the shelf in it's own sub-box. And it's fully supported by small brackets at all four corners so it's not resting on the floor carpet.
Also, just removed the factory sub and replaced it with the stock panel. I found a really interesting design in a floor shelf on ORV Innovations/ website that I like. It's too pricey for what it is, but it looks really well designed. I think I may copy a few designs and come up with my own version. The part I like best is they relocated the factory sub underneath the shelf in it's own sub-box. And it's fully supported by small brackets at all four corners so it's not resting on the floor carpet.
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
No, the sub is really easy to remove. Two bolts on the floor and one stud behind the seatbelt mount. I got the panel from Mopar through Amazon for $118 I think. I was bummed I lost the 12V power source though so I've removed it from the sub enclosure and will custom mount it in the new panel. I'll throw up a pic when I'm done.