Martha the TJ

The front Dana 60 from the squarebody is passenger side drop. I'm still not sure if I'm going to want to cut the tubes and knuckles and swap it to driver side or do something else like find a newer Ford super duty axle.

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No progress on the truck bed but I think I sourced some Dodge Dakota bed mounts They're the right width and I think I'm going to stack four of them in a row to give it a little bit of extra strength. An early 80's K 20 or K 30 service bed should be almost the perfect dimensions and I'd love to have a service bed on the TJ.

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Soo an additional new plan. Still doing one tons. I'm pulling the body off my frame and refinishing my frame. I'll repaint the body when it's off the jeep. I'm building the engine from 400 HP NA to 500 HP NA. I'm considering doing a turbo setup sized to give extra grunt in the bottom end. Because of the additional power I'm on the hunt for a Dodge nv4500. If I use a Chevy bellhousing and input shaft it will bolt right up to the ls and the rear bolt pattern and spline count will bolt to my existing transfer case. Then it's just the fun interior styling stuff and scraping the money together for fenders, Sliders, and the flat bed itself.

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If you pair a turbo to be in boost at the low end, be aware, that thing is gonna be spinning ALL the time. Turbo whistle and DV is cool and all, but gets annoying after awhile. Just something to think about.
 
Since I'm building the engine to have tons of power NA I've also considered a turbo on the top end. Just a little extra when I'm getting antsy with the skinny pedal.
Snboarder113 said:
If you pair a turbo to be in boost at the low end, be aware, that thing is gonna be spinning ALL the time. Turbo whistle and DV is cool and all, but gets annoying after awhile. Just something to think about.
Click to expand...

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So you looking at a Biturbo vs a twin ?
Make sure the block can handle it, normally NA power builds are built the opposite of what you want for FI. Just have to plan ahead a bit if you’re not doing it all at once.


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Since you're building the engine yourself, do it right from the beginning if you're planning on putting a turbo on it. Do your research and don't cheap out. Otherwise you'll be tearing the engine down again or selling it.
 
That's the consensus I came to as well. Slowly doing my research and building a parts list. I tore the front clip off yesterday to mock up turbo piping. I'm going to have to either relocate the radiator or set it into the grill.
WJCO said:
Since you're building the engine yourself, do it right from the beginning if you're planning on putting a turbo on it. Do your research and don't cheap out. Otherwise you'll be tearing the engine down again or selling it.
Click to expand...

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I pulled my harness off of the engine (need to redo it and actually make it look nice this time) and pulled my fenders and Radiator. Turns out my block huggers can flip and fit perfect. This would be ideal for the twin turbo setup and I have a surprising amount of hood clearance. The radiator will either need to be inset into the grill or relocated. I'm not a fan of relocation and I need a new grill anyways, old one bent from my fender bender last April, so I'm going to do some mockups and cut into this one to get some ideas. I need a new hood too so I can experiment with a medium sized hood scoop for the intake to save space under the hood since it was already pretty tight without a whole bunch of turbo piping. Good chance I have to swap to a car pulley kit that sits closer to the block as well. 20200225_151225.jpg20200225_151232.jpg20200225_160439.jpg20200225_160455.jpg

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Body is off! Already sold my transfer case and tranny. Same with the custom y pipe and bellhousing adapter. I somehow managed to find another person doing the same swap I did. 20200301_210653.jpg20200301_210657.jpg20200302_174447.jpg20200302_174455.jpg20200302_205702.jpg20200302_205709.jpg20200302_220527.jpg20200302_220532.jpg

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The rear main seal was not blown like I thought. Instead I had oil seeping through the flywheel bolts. Pretty weird. I'm upgrading to ARP studs when it all gets put back together so hopefully this won't end up being an issue I have to chase.

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