Making the B Pillar removable on a 4 door.
- Thread starter maskale
- Start date
Clifford33
Caught the Bug
maskale
New member
Slow going, been bz with other things. Finished the custom touches to the cage, I forgot to take some photos along the way. But I'll show it all once its put back together. I did drop the cage off today to get it powder coated, wont get it back till mid to end of next week.
Working on the wiring a little, not much progress nor have I figured a solution for everything :thinking:, but it will come together. This is the bundle of wires most of which are no longer needed.
Once the cage was welded out I put the hard top and feedom panels back on, intalled the B pillars and the doors. It all goes back together like it should.
For the B pillars I took two of the threaded sleeves that came with the cage that were for the seat belts and installed them at the B pillar, one on each side. So there will be a 7/16" bolt on top and two on bottom holding the B pillar in place.
Working on the wiring a little, not much progress nor have I figured a solution for everything :thinking:, but it will come together. This is the bundle of wires most of which are no longer needed.
Once the cage was welded out I put the hard top and feedom panels back on, intalled the B pillars and the doors. It all goes back together like it should.
For the B pillars I took two of the threaded sleeves that came with the cage that were for the seat belts and installed them at the B pillar, one on each side. So there will be a 7/16" bolt on top and two on bottom holding the B pillar in place.
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maskale
New member
I ordered Corbeau XRS seats with harnesses. Should have ordered two and test fit them first. :doh: They arent going to work in the back. The X brace takes up a lot of rear leg room, which I knew, but the XRS seat cousion is longer than the factory seats and really cuts down even more on the leg room. The biggest issue is the seat hight though. They are too tall, it puts the passengers heads very close to the rear upper cross bar, I think this cross bar is in a bad spot, should have been put a couple inches back or bowed up like the B pillar cross bar does. Im either going to install the factory rear seats or the Corbeau bench seat, but its only 42" wide, a little narrow. I'll use the extra XRS seats for my M715 project.
Mounting the wetsounds sound bar on the C pillar cross bar is also close to the passengers heads. But I rearly have back seat passengers so going a head and mounting it there. I do not recommend this if you use the back seats much.
For mounting the sound bar I took some heavy wall 1/8" pipe and drilled it out to tap 5/16-18" threads, then welded them into the roll bar.
I took some scrap metal left over from some skid plate and cut some brackets for mounting a jack. Like I said I forgot to take some pics, but I'll show it all once its all back together.
Not much of an update, but its coming. Most importantly it actually all bolts back together and all the doors fit and work just like before.
Oh I did start tearing into the rear doors to make them manual, I found someone local that wants the power window and locks. So going to trade door guts with him.
Mounting the wetsounds sound bar on the C pillar cross bar is also close to the passengers heads. But I rearly have back seat passengers so going a head and mounting it there. I do not recommend this if you use the back seats much.
For mounting the sound bar I took some heavy wall 1/8" pipe and drilled it out to tap 5/16-18" threads, then welded them into the roll bar.
I took some scrap metal left over from some skid plate and cut some brackets for mounting a jack. Like I said I forgot to take some pics, but I'll show it all once its all back together.
Not much of an update, but its coming. Most importantly it actually all bolts back together and all the doors fit and work just like before.
Oh I did start tearing into the rear doors to make them manual, I found someone local that wants the power window and locks. So going to trade door guts with him.
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maskale
New member
Oh, So this is Genright cage with all the options, In my research no one could say what it weighs. It weighs 232lbs, plus 34lbs of brackets and hardware that install in the Jeep, so total cage weight is 266lbs. The factory cage, just the metal weighs 90lbs. I still have to weigh all the seatbelts, trim and other peices that I have removed, minus what I add back in like 5pt harnesses and wetsounds sound bar to see what the end result is, Im guessing that the total weight removed from the Jeep will be around 150lbs.
If you plan to assemble this cage, expect half day to most of the day to install all the brackets in the Jeep, 2hrs of cleaning and prepping all the tubes, 1-2hrs prewelding holes and sleeves plus 2-3hrs to tac everything up. TIG welding will take 7-9hrs of stright welding, a little over 2lbs of filler rod and about 150cf of argon. Most of the cage can be assembled with two people, the X-bars takes three people. Getting the cage in and out of the Jeep takes a tractor with forks, an over head crane with at least 12' of head room or 4-6 people. Taking the spare off and letting air out of the tires helps. Cutting the B pillars off really makes it easier.
If you plan to assemble this cage, expect half day to most of the day to install all the brackets in the Jeep, 2hrs of cleaning and prepping all the tubes, 1-2hrs prewelding holes and sleeves plus 2-3hrs to tac everything up. TIG welding will take 7-9hrs of stright welding, a little over 2lbs of filler rod and about 150cf of argon. Most of the cage can be assembled with two people, the X-bars takes three people. Getting the cage in and out of the Jeep takes a tractor with forks, an over head crane with at least 12' of head room or 4-6 people. Taking the spare off and letting air out of the tires helps. Cutting the B pillars off really makes it easier.
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-AINOKEA-
Hooked
Diggin the progress so far. I wouldn’t do it simply because I don’t have a reason or the means to myself... but it’s nice that you’re documenting everything. I’m really curious to see how this turns out. You’re the only one with the vision of the end product you’re looking for. Keep at it. 
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Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
maskale
New member
Cage is ready to be picked up already. . I wasn’t expecting it in less than 24hrs. Can’t make it to pick up till Monday though.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
maskale
New member
Diggin the progress so far. I wouldn’t do it simply because I don’t have a reason or the means to myself... but it’s nice that you’re documenting everything. I’m really curious to see how this turns out. You’re the only one with the vision of the end product you’re looking for. Keep at it.
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It is a vision. Sometimes it’s one of those thing you just have to do and see for yourself in the end. I can tell ya I have had some ideas that didn’t always come out as expected. Spend hours or days on something, then throw it in the scrap pile.
But I really enjoy this kind of fabrication. Making it up as I go, not really sure how I will accomplish each problem till I’m there doing it.
This didn’t need to be done at all. I just wanted too.
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jdofmemi
Active Member
It takes guys like you with a vision and some skills to create anything new.
Without that, the world would be stale and booooooooring.
I'm looking forward to seeing it put together.
maskale
New member
fiend
Caught the Bug
Without the B pillar the Jeep looks like a pickup truck.
Cage looks good painted, but fit is a little questionable.
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wjtstudios
Hooked
Cage looks great, looking forward to seeing it installed!
maskale
New member
Man talk about slow going here. Thought I would be done already. Well, it's still going, it's close. Got sidetracked and did a few other things.
Anyways this post is going to be about the electrical. I wanted a clean interior since all the trim except around the windshield is gone. Cut about 20 studs off that hold wires and trim on, masked off what I needed and had to bedline the areas that I didnt orginally bed line becuase they were coverd with trim.
I counted 73 wires on the inside of the Jeep, then I found a few more so call it just shy of 80 wires inside. Mine had the side air bags and upraded sound system so there were extra wires for those.
If it wasn't needed I cut it out. I got down to 21 wires that were needed. Under the battery tray is a factory electrical pass through, I used that to run my 21 wires out of the tub and under the Jeep and down the right frame to the back. 8 of them were for the sub, a power, remote and two audio for the sound bar the rest were for the tail lights and rear gate. I kept my front power windows and locks and the rear power lock.
Anyways this post is going to be about the electrical. I wanted a clean interior since all the trim except around the windshield is gone. Cut about 20 studs off that hold wires and trim on, masked off what I needed and had to bedline the areas that I didnt orginally bed line becuase they were coverd with trim.
I counted 73 wires on the inside of the Jeep, then I found a few more so call it just shy of 80 wires inside. Mine had the side air bags and upraded sound system so there were extra wires for those.
If it wasn't needed I cut it out. I got down to 21 wires that were needed. Under the battery tray is a factory electrical pass through, I used that to run my 21 wires out of the tub and under the Jeep and down the right frame to the back. 8 of them were for the sub, a power, remote and two audio for the sound bar the rest were for the tail lights and rear gate. I kept my front power windows and locks and the rear power lock.
Exodus 4x4
New member
maskale
New member
This next post you probably dont wanna read unless you need to make your Safety Restraint System happy.
My Jeep is a 2016 JKU, wire colors could change for different years. Don't use this as a how too for you, its just what worked for me. Research SRS systems and how they work.
I had to buy a Foxwell 630 Elite to be able to read and reset SRS codes. I couldn't exactly find anywhere what I needed to do to make the SRS happy, but I knew it was all about resistance. So lots of trial and error. This is not a 100% how too, I'll tell ya some of that I had to do to make the SRS happy made no sense, half I knew what I was doing, half was guess work. Lots of code reading and resetting.
I had 10 SRS error codes. Each front seat belt retractor, seat belt latch, airbag sensor, and airbags have a pair of wires. The driver seat has a hall effect sensor. The passenger has a seat occupant sensor and seat belt latch pretensioner. That's 22 wires associated with the front seats.
The Driver seat:
The hall effect sensor read 4.29Mohm, I used a 620ohm resistor to get rid of this code, Im sure you could go much higher and still make it happy, these wires were blue with white stripe and blue with purple stripe.
The belt retractor I used a 2.2ohm, these wires were green with dark green and green with yellow.
The air bag sensor read 0.953 Mohm, for this I just reinstalled the sensor to get rid of the code. I'll either get a big enough resistor or just leave the sensor pugged in and hide it under the center console, thats where the SRS module is. These wires are green with brown and green with peach.
The air bag itself I used a 2.2ohm, the wires are green with white and green with redish orange.
The seat belt latch is black and green with faint pink. To get rid of the seat belt dash light just ground the green wire to one of the ground studs on the trans tunnel.
Passenger seat:
Belt retractor is 2.2ohm Blue with yellow stripe and blue with green stripe.
air bag sensor I did the same as driver seat. Its brown with green and peach with green
air bag is 2.2ohm, blue with white and blue with red.
seat belt pretensioner is 2.2ohm, only the passenger seat has this pretensioner. blue with yellow and blue with green. These wires are the same color as the air bag sensor, so dont mix them up.
Occupant sensor. Installing a 620ohm resistor will make the code go away and you wont get a seatbelt light. But as far as I understand the front passenger air bag will not deploy because now the SRS thinks no one is sitting there but the sensor is plugged in. So I want to make it so the SRS always thinks someone is sitting there. I just tied the wires together.
Well now that the Occupant sensor says someone is sitting there the passenger seat belt light will come on because the belt is not buckled in. It took 620ohm across the passenger seat belt latch wires to make the light go out.
So with all this the SRS thinks all sensors are plugged in, and there are two front occupants with their belts buckled. All of this was so the SRS would be happy, have no dash lights or dings and the front air bags still work.
The short cut is to remove the SRS module, its fuse and remove the dash lights for seat belts and SRS. You may still end up with a seatbelt chime or warning on the dash read out.
My Jeep is a 2016 JKU, wire colors could change for different years. Don't use this as a how too for you, its just what worked for me. Research SRS systems and how they work.
I had to buy a Foxwell 630 Elite to be able to read and reset SRS codes. I couldn't exactly find anywhere what I needed to do to make the SRS happy, but I knew it was all about resistance. So lots of trial and error. This is not a 100% how too, I'll tell ya some of that I had to do to make the SRS happy made no sense, half I knew what I was doing, half was guess work. Lots of code reading and resetting.
I had 10 SRS error codes. Each front seat belt retractor, seat belt latch, airbag sensor, and airbags have a pair of wires. The driver seat has a hall effect sensor. The passenger has a seat occupant sensor and seat belt latch pretensioner. That's 22 wires associated with the front seats.
The Driver seat:
The hall effect sensor read 4.29Mohm, I used a 620ohm resistor to get rid of this code, Im sure you could go much higher and still make it happy, these wires were blue with white stripe and blue with purple stripe.
The belt retractor I used a 2.2ohm, these wires were green with dark green and green with yellow.
The air bag sensor read 0.953 Mohm, for this I just reinstalled the sensor to get rid of the code. I'll either get a big enough resistor or just leave the sensor pugged in and hide it under the center console, thats where the SRS module is. These wires are green with brown and green with peach.
The air bag itself I used a 2.2ohm, the wires are green with white and green with redish orange.
The seat belt latch is black and green with faint pink. To get rid of the seat belt dash light just ground the green wire to one of the ground studs on the trans tunnel.
Passenger seat:
Belt retractor is 2.2ohm Blue with yellow stripe and blue with green stripe.
air bag sensor I did the same as driver seat. Its brown with green and peach with green
air bag is 2.2ohm, blue with white and blue with red.
seat belt pretensioner is 2.2ohm, only the passenger seat has this pretensioner. blue with yellow and blue with green. These wires are the same color as the air bag sensor, so dont mix them up.
Occupant sensor. Installing a 620ohm resistor will make the code go away and you wont get a seatbelt light. But as far as I understand the front passenger air bag will not deploy because now the SRS thinks no one is sitting there but the sensor is plugged in. So I want to make it so the SRS always thinks someone is sitting there. I just tied the wires together.
Well now that the Occupant sensor says someone is sitting there the passenger seat belt light will come on because the belt is not buckled in. It took 620ohm across the passenger seat belt latch wires to make the light go out.
So with all this the SRS thinks all sensors are plugged in, and there are two front occupants with their belts buckled. All of this was so the SRS would be happy, have no dash lights or dings and the front air bags still work.
The short cut is to remove the SRS module, its fuse and remove the dash lights for seat belts and SRS. You may still end up with a seatbelt chime or warning on the dash read out.
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maskale
New member
A few teaser pics. I have a few things left to finish up. Should be done next week. Got the steering wheel tore apart trying to disable the voice recognition. I hate that thing, always hit it with my palm and it cuts my music off.
B pillar mount with holes drilled and tapped.
B pillers, cut studs off, smoothed and filled holes and bed lined. I bed lined like I did for looks and protetion since these will get moved around.
B pillar mount with holes drilled and tapped.
B pillers, cut studs off, smoothed and filled holes and bed lined. I bed lined like I did for looks and protetion since these will get moved around.
maskale
New member
Wet sounds 21" powered sound bar. When I first tested this using my phone it was very flat, only had highs. Once I plugged into Jeep audio it improved a lot, still needs the sub to pick up some lows, but it does well. This is the powered version, its much louder than the front speakers, I think the non powered version would have been just fine. I had to fade too the front speakers a lot to get the sound level right. I ran the wire down the outisde of the tubing using welded on washers to hold the wire, then went inside the rear fender and ran wire to back right tail light for hook up. My Jeep had the updraged sound system and the sound bar had 4 speakers. I took the two right channels and played with the wiring till it sounded the best. I did not worry about a left and right channel on the sound bar since its so short.
And a jack mount
And a jack mount
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fiend
Caught the Bug
This next post you probably dont wanna read unless you need to make your Safety Restraint System happy.
My Jeep is a 2016 JKU, wire colors could change for different years. Don't use this as a how too for you, its just what worked for me. Research SRS systems and how they work.
I had to buy a Foxwell 630 Elite to be able to read and reset SRS codes. I couldn't exactly find anywhere what I needed to do to make the SRS happy, but I knew it was all about resistance. So lots of trial and error. This is not a 100% how too, I'll tell ya some of that I had to do to make the SRS happy made no sense, half I knew what I was doing, half was guess work. Lots of code reading and resetting.
I had 10 SRS error codes. Each front seat belt retractor, seat belt latch, airbag sensor, and airbags have a pair of wires. The driver seat has a hall effect sensor. The passanger has a seat occupant sensor and seat belt latch pretensioner. Thats 22 wires associated with the front seats.
The Driver seat:
The hall effect sensor read 4.29Mohm, I used a 620ohm resistor to get rid of this code, Im sure you could go much higher and still make it happy, these wires were blue with white stripe and blue with purple stripe.
The belt retractor I used a 2.2ohm, these wires were green with dark green and green with yellow.
The air bag sensor read 0.953 Mohm, for this I just reinstalled the sensor to get rid of the code. I'll either get a big enough resistor or just leave the sensor pugged in and hide it under the center condsol, thats where the SRS module is. These wires are green with brown and green with peach.
The air bag itself I used a 2.2ohm, the wires are green with white and green with redish orange.
The seat belt latch is black and green with faint pink. To get rid of the seat belt dash light just ground the green wire to one of the ground studs on the trans tunnel.
Passenger seat:
Belt retractor is 2.2ohm Blue with yellow stripe and blue with green stripe.
air bag sensor I did the same as driver seat. Its brown with green and peach with green
air bag is 2.2ohm, blue with white and blue with red.
seat belt pretensioner is 2.2ohm, only the passanger seat has this pretensioner. blue with yellow and blue with green. These wires are the same color as the air bag sensor, so dont mix them up.
Ocupant sensor. Installing a 620ohm resisotor will make the code go away and you wont get a seatbelt light. But as far as I understand the front passanger air bag will not deply beause now the SRS thinks no one is sitting there but the sensor is plugged in. So I want to make it so the SRS always thinks someone is sitting there. I just tied the wires together.
Well now that the Ocupant sensor says someone is sitting there the passanger seat belt light will come on because the belt is not buckled in. This was the most confusing part. I dont know why or how, but I kept playing around with the resistance and grounding the wires like I did with the driver seat belt latch but none of it worked. This is what did work, I kept adding ressiors till the codes were gone. It took 6200 ohm connected to the wires, but then short that with another 620ohm. this make no sense to me, but it worked.
So with all this the SRS thinks all sensors are plugged in, and there are two front occupants with their belts buckled. All of this was so the SRS would be happy, have no dash lights or dings and the front air bags still work.
The short cut is to remove the SRS module, its fuse and remove the dash lights for seat belts and SRS. You may still end up with a seatbelt chime or warning on the dash read out.
Wow. That’s some work. Were you concerned about firing off an airbag while doing your experimentation? Or maybe that’s not even possible? Do you have a wiring schematic for the SRS system?
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maskale
New member
LOL, ya I was worried. :cheesy:
The seat airbags wouldn't go off since they were unplugged. I removed the steering wheel airbag, that gave me two codes on my reader but I knew what they were so ignored them. I didnt bother with trying to remove or disable passanger airbag. I was working on the passanger side since thats where the wires are, when ever I would do something dumb like ground a wire I put my ear plugs in, saftey glasses on a kept my head down.
What I learned about SRS is never put a meter to an airbag or retractor since that could make them go off. That's where lots of guessing trial and error took place. I did put a meter to airbag sensors, occupant sensor, seatbelt latch and hall effect sensor. I'm not sure what the wires are for in the retractor, my guess its a pretensioner, so I didn't put a meter too them either. My research said most SRS systems need 2.2 to 4 ohm resistors but clearly I went into the Kohm.
I did not have a schematic, couldn't find one.
Overall, nearly 80 wires in the tub is ridiculous. I cut out 5lbs of wire from 20 to 12ga. Some of them made no sense, couldnt figure out what they did.