Looking for new jku input

Thanks guys, I don't foresee going bigger than 35s and when I build on the jeep site 3.21 or 3.73 are the only options.
 
ScoobyCarolanNC said:
4.10s. Get them from the factory & pay the extra $8 a month or whatever and don't worry about it later. If you have a family get running boards with a step or they won't be able to get in or out in back by themselves. If you plan on towing I think the "max tow" kit comes with the transmission cooler.
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The jeep site doesn't say it comes with a cooler, just hitch, 4 pin connector, and 3.73 gears.
 
When I got mine I wasn't thinking too much about the gearing, and 3.21's with 33's is doable but not great with the manual. I am already looking to go to 4.88's (next tires will be at least 35's) and saving up penny's for it. Otherwise its a matter of what you prefer for options, drive a few and get what you want. At the end of the day, if you don't like something you can always change it! Good luck!
 
Lots of personal prereence here and depends on your needs. I would try to drive one with both gear options and 35s and see what you think. I have 4.88s with 37s and I'm thinking I could've gone 5.13s and I have an auto with a penstar. again, lots of prereence. Either way, youre gonna be drive able
 
trexburn said:
Also just checked the site you can get the 4.10 on a rubi but not with an automatic
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You add the 4.10s to the auto on the page with the tow options. I clearly need a new hobby....

Edit: sorry, last page by the wheels & tops. I just did it.
 
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It's a lot to contemplate for sure. when I was looking for mine I went back and forth 500 times. I drove out to colorado in my nissan rogue and the power windows and power locks went out because it was so cold, so that made me decide to forego the power group, just one less thing to go wrong 10 years from now. I couldn't be happier.

Also, I doubt after one season you'll want to put the hard top back on so i'd opt out of the hardtop and just get the softtop. One more final opinion, get the rubi, you pay more upfront but at least it all will be factored into the blue book value. If you buy the sport all the money put into the lockers and gearing will be for not if you decide to sell.

Just one man's opinion; good lick with your search and decision.
 
Get the 3.73:1 gears, it is worth it and will work for 35" tires. I have 35's and 3:73 on a 2-door with manual transmission and I'm okay with this setup and have no plans to re-gear. I don't think the limited slip option is needed. The brake-lock differential is very effective at limiting wheel spin. I have been very surprised at how well the non-locker differential limits wheel spin using the automatic brake lock. I go off road quit a bit and do very well without lockers.
 
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I found the 3.73 gutless with my 285/75r17 Toyos which is a 33" (new) tire. I just went to 4.56. Can't imagine how bad 3.21 would have been. Granted I have an auto and after market bumpers, sliders et al.
OP, will you be adding a bunch of weight? Bumpers, winch etc?
If I recalll the upgrade to 3.73 from 3.21 is not much at all at factory.
If you are sticking with an auto, sport go 3.73. 3.21 on an auto allows for zero mods. I have a friend with a 2014 Sport JKU with 3.21. It is fine until it is loaded down. Then it starts to lag a bit and he is still bone stock.
Also, if you get 3.21 and regear there is a chance that you may void your warranty depending on who you deal with.
3.73 is livable for the warranty period if you are concerned with that sort of thing.
3.21 is really only half decent on a two door manual. Anything else and it is useless. Unless you are a soccer mom looking for mileage on your stock mall crawler. ;)
 
I'm running toyo mt's 35s on my 16jku 6 spd with 3.73s with a 3.5" lift. It's not terrible but definitely have to downshift on hills alot. Towing a 1500lb trailer i have to downshift to 4th on highway hills. Around town it's not bad at all. Averaging 15.2 mpg with mostly city driving. Going to add a locker and regear next year
 
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danno16jk said:
I'm running toyo mt's 35s on my 16jku 6 spd with 3.73s with a 3.5" lift. It's not terrible but definitely have to downshift on hills alot. Towing a 1500lb trailer i have to downshift to 4th on highway hills. Around town it's not bad at all. Averaging 15.2 mpg with mostly city driving. Going to add a locker and regear next year
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Yah the manual seems to be "better" than the auto at dealing with the bigger wheels at least based on what I have been reading. I was constantly "manually" shifting the auto and had to drop to 3rd (of 5)on some steeper hills, not towing anything. Much better with the 4.56 but the high rpm's on the highway bite into mileage for sure. Still, I am far happier with the shorter gears.
 
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