Looking for new jku input

trexburn

trexburn

New member
Getting ready to order a new jku, any must haves or things to stay away from? I plan on running 35's so I think I should get the 3.73 gears, is this correct thinking? Is the true lock diff upgrade worth it? I will be getting an automatic. Thanks in advance.
 
Well I have spine issues so I can't go real crazy wheeling basically a dd that can function good on a trail but maintain a good ride. I think I'll be doing a 2.5 lift with no bigger than 35s. I tell my buddy I'll be the support vehicle while he does the crazy stuff.
 
If you are going to run 35's then 3.73's is going to be a bit short even on modest hills. I have the 3.73's and stock 32's which is just right. You might want consider a Rubicon with the 4.10 option or just plan the re-gear when you upgrade the tires.
 
Diff locks will help with off road traction for sure. All depends on what kind of terrain you plan to take your jeep on. Sorry if I wasn't more clear in my first response.
 
Well I'm in Indiana so no mountains or rock climbing. The diff option is a limited slip not a locker I believe. I was staying with a sport to keep my up front cost down and I don't think I will need lockers but I could be wrong.
 
trexburn said:
Well I have spine issues so I can't go real crazy wheeling basically a dd that can function good on a trail but maintain a good ride. I think I'll be doing a 2.5 lift with no bigger than 35s. I tell my buddy I'll be the support vehicle while he does the crazy stuff.
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Haha I did that my last trip out. I was a good camera man. Sounds like you could do a 2.5" budget boost and 35's. I ran that for a while and it was a good set up for me.
 
If the 3.73s are more expensive then I would stay with 3.21s. I ran 3.21s on my rig with 35s for over a year. It's slow. But you can learn to manage it until you get enough cash to regear. Plus it will save you some money up front. You may be okay to stay open on the front and rear if your wheeling isn't too wild. If you do a budget boost then you will maintain the stock ride quality. You could even do a leveling kit and run 35s if you trim your fenders. Just a few things to consider
 
I've been running 35s on 3.21s for about a year now and it's just fine. It's not as fast as a Ferrari, but I can pull out in traffic or pass someone on the interstate with ease.
 
Same 2.5 BB and 35's here with 3.21's. No issues and I felt no change in power between my 35's and the 33's I had on it.
 
devonn216 said:
I've been running 35s on 3.21s for about a year now and it's just fine. It's not as fast as a Ferrari, but I can pull out in traffic or pass someone on the interstate with ease.
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FNGsport said:
Same 2.5 BB and 35's here with 3.21's. No issues and I felt no change in power between my 35's and the 33's I had on it.
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Really? I've got 4.10s and I can tell the difference between the stock 31s and 33s.
 
Definitely go 3.73 if you don't plan to regear right away.

For me, I'd have to have the power convenience group, no way I'm cranking 4 windows every time I get in, power locks and heated mirrors are included. Connectivity is nice for upgraded info display and ability to set vehicle options in dash and have Bluetooth for phone. Premium soft top or dual top option is nice.
 
4.10s. Get them from the factory & pay the extra $8 a month or whatever and don't worry about it later. If you have a family get running boards with a step or they won't be able to get in or out in back by themselves. If you plan on towing I think the "max tow" kit comes with the transmission cooler.
 
You're looking at $1000+ job if a shop does it ($1350 here) what tire size are you running and what is the biggest you plan to go with it? It would be much better to go with a 4.88 or 5.13 the first time with some 35's to leave yourself room to bump to 37's if you ever want to instead of spending $2000+ to have it done twice when you realize down the road your 3.73 or 4.10 ain't working with your 37's you just spent $2000 on.
 
I would recommend you go to a place like CarMax where you can look at a few jeeps and play with all the creature comforts. Since you're getting an automatic you should be able to find a few laying around. Try out leather seats, try the blue tooth, play with the power windows, try out all the buttons and settings. Find one with a premium sound system and compare it to a standard sound system. Then try to find a few with different gear sets and drive them. You don't have to buy a thing from them, you're just there to physically get a feel for the options, figure out what you like, and don't like. Then go order one exactly the way you want it. The worst thing you can do is "settle" for a list of options instead of getting exactly what you want. It sucks to realize you should have just paid the extra $8 to $23 or whatever to get that option that you wanted later on down the road. These jeeps are a big investment, don't settle, get it EXACTLY the way you want it. Good luck in your ordering decisions!
 
Don't let anyone tell you that you will be "OK" with 3.21's and 35's! You will hate it guaranteed!
 
I think you can only get 4.10 with the rubicon and it's a $700 option on top of the automatic. You can option 3.73's with the sport and be doing much better than 3.21. Most "35's" are only 33.75" tall on the vehicle anyway. 4.10's are fine for me (74mph at 2600rpm). 3.73 would be do-able but 4.56 would be ideal for a re-gear.

As mentioned- the Sport with 24S power package, connectivity, auto, and 3.73's would be the budget setup.

If you can afford it- rubicon, auto, 4.10's, dual top, alpine audio, connectivity, remote start. Then you get the gears, lockers, 4:1 low range, sway bar disconnect, and you get some money back selling the wheels/tires and rock sliders to a sport/sahara owner. Resale is better too.
 
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