Long Arm vs Mid arm?

[Ddays]

Thanks. That evo kit looks almost identical to synergy. same price too. Maybe next year I'll do LA. Try and sell my MC arms. Would you say the LA made a big difference on road? I want mine to feel good driving on long trips. I do 6 hr trips back home few times a year.

The biggest difference for handling with the LA kit is on the road. It really is night and day.

Absolutely its a night and day difference on the road. I just drove 2300 miles in 4 days and the Jeep drives and tracks just awesome. 80mph is just like driving 55mph and only one hand on the wheel. Now, you will still have some issues with winds moving you around somewhat, but, well, lifted Jeep right? That's just a fact of life that no arms will help.

You want your drag link and track bar to be parallel to one another and, ideally, to the ground. If you are going to use the raised track bar mount, then you probably will want to flip your drag link. If you are using the stock track bar location and you’re not experiencing bump steer, then you can stick with the non flipped DL.

^^ absolutely this. Honestly, even if you feel that you aren't suffering bumpsteer I'd be willing to bet your Jeep will drive better with the trackbar raised :twocents:

 

[17xJKU]

i had a discussion with them on this, and i completely disagree. at 3 inches, it's time to raise that trackbar and flip the drag ling unless you have high steer knuckles.

I think they are just very proud of their flex, and with the flip, you have top run 3 inch bump stop losing some flex. I think I have to run that anyways with 37s on the 3.5gc lift. So I'm going to do it. You think high steer rancho knuckles are worth it? I should have just added them to my pr44 when Northridge was building it.. but then I need a new drag link too..$$$$$$$$

 

[A.J.]

I think they are just very proud of their flex, and with the flip, you have top run 3 inch bump stop losing some flex. I think I have to run that anyways with 37s on the 3.5gc lift. So I'm going to do it. You think high steer rancho knuckles are worth it? I should have just added them to my pr44 when Northridge was building it.. but then I need a new drag link too..$$$$$$$$

I have the Rancho high steers. I like them. Best news is then you won’t have to drill or shim for the flip. Just bolts right on! [emoji106]


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[Clearskies]

Mid arms are a gimmick. I ran a RK kit and all it did for me was cause issues in the rear where it pushed the rear axle back an inch. bowed springs, trackbar interference, etc. Better to stick to the standard arms or go all in with the long arm

I ended up with the RK mid, Very happy so far, Zero problems with the lift.

 

[Ddays]

I ended up with the RK mid, Very happy so far, Zero problems with the lift.

I had zero issues with the front end but the back end? :crazyeyes: You have no clearance issues with the rear track bar? Mine hit on everything except the local restaurant waitress. What do your rear springs look like?

 

[zombie hunter]

I had zero issues with the front end but the back end? :crazyeyes: You have no clearance issues with the rear track bar? Mine hit on everything except the local restaurant waitress. What do your rear springs look like?

Which RK kit are you running? The X factor or the max travel? I'm thinking about ordering the 3.5" max travel for my RHD jku. But your comment about the rear shenanigans is putting me off

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[Ddays]

Which RK kit are you running? The X factor or the max travel? I'm thinking about ordering the 3.5" max travel for my RHD jku. But your comment about the rear shenanigans is putting me off

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I was running the X factor mid arm but have since switched to an EVO LA kit. Is the max travel advertised as a "mid arm" kit as well? All the mid arm does is push the axle back one inch which IMO isn't needed and what caused my issues.
I have pics somewhere that showed exactly what I ran into. I'll try to dig them out & post up. But in the meantime, I had rear trackbar issues - it hit both the passenger side spring and the diff cover. The springs looked like slinkies. I tried wedges and they really didn't help much - they still bowed like hell. The overall quality of the kit is ok, but the arm ends are not as stout as kits that use the Currie Johnny Joints. Are they good enough for your use? IDK, you;d have to answer that one...

 

[BaddestCross]

Mine hit on everything except the local restaurant waitress.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

 

[vitodivita]

Any one out there use MC 3.5 GC kit on JKU and like how it handles on road?

And they don't recommend a DL flip and raised track bar for anything under their 4.5 kit. I wounder if it will make a big difference if i do it. My pr44 already has a raised track bar mount welded on, but i put mine in stock location.

I have the MC 3.5 I think it handles well on the road, but with that said, when I had the DL flip & raised trackbar on my old 12' JK, it did drive more confidently imo. I'd suggest to try that DL Flip first before investing in a long arm setup.

 

[Rocralr]

I did the same kit, the Metalcloak 3.5 GC kit. I ran with it for a few months until I installed the long arm kit. It was like night and day. I love the long arm kit.

 

[17xJKU]

I did the same kit, the Metalcloak 3.5 GC kit. I ran with it for a few months until I installed the long arm kit. It was like night and day. I love the long arm kit.

What LA kit did you go with? I'm thinking of pulling the trigger too, but I will try the raised track bar and drag link flip first. And are you 2dr or 4dr?

 

[TheGrendel]

I think they are just very proud of their flex, and with the flip, you have top run 3 inch bump stop losing some flex. I think I have to run that anyways with 37s on the 3.5gc lift. So I'm going to do it. You think high steer rancho knuckles are worth it? I should have just added them to my pr44 when Northridge was building it.. but then I need a new drag link too..$$$$$$$$

Yup. I think you nailed it. They want to hit the best flex numbers at the expense of having better on road performance.

If you don’t already have high steer knuckles, don’t spend the money. It is pretty simple to drill the knuckle. Get a step bit. Go slow and use cutting oil.

 

[Clearskies]

I had zero issues with the front end but the back end? :crazyeyes: You have no clearance issues with the rear track bar? Mine hit on everything except the local restaurant waitress. What do your rear springs look like?

I'm using the 3.5 X factor mid arm, No clearance issues, the axle needed to move back to accommodate the 37" Nittos's. There looks like there's a little deflection of the rear springs but no problems yet.

 

[Ddays]

I'm using the 3.5 X factor mid arm, No clearance issues, the axle needed to move back to accommodate the 37" Nittos's. There looks like there's a little deflection of the rear springs but no problems yet.

Here's the fun I had with mine. This was with the wheels centered in the opening, which was supposed to be one of the advantages with this kit. The mark on the diff cover doesn't look like much but believe you me, when it whacked it I can assure you it was much. The trackbar hitting the spring in the second picture was at rest. You can imagine the racket it made rubbing up and down on the springs when it articulated. The last pic shows the clearance gained by re-installing the stock track bar. Also shows a good view of the slinkies.

 

[Clearskies]

That's a huge difference between you'rs and mine. I'm sure that sucked

 

[17xJKU]

I'm going to take this weekend to tweak my arms front and rear, do some flex testing and see I I'm hitting anything. I'll lock atvmy rear track bar ti check clearance, but from what i remember reading, is common with RK but not MC kits.

My goal tho is to eventually be on evo or synergy long arm kit and 60 full float front and rear. But I need my new garage so I can actually fit my jeep in it. It won't fit now with the lift and 37s. Gravel driveway is not fun to work on.

 

[zombie hunter]

I was running the X factor mid arm but have since switched to an EVO LA kit. Is the max travel advertised as a "mid arm" kit as well? All the mid arm does is push the axle back one inch which IMO isn't needed and what caused my issues.
I have pics somewhere that showed exactly what I ran into. I'll try to dig them out & post up. But in the meantime, I had rear trackbar issues - it hit both the passenger side spring and the diff cover. The springs looked like slinkies. I tried wedges and they really didn't help much - they still bowed like hell. The overall quality of the kit is ok, but the arm ends are not as stout as kits that use the Currie Johnny Joints. Are they good enough for your use? IDK, you;d have to answer that one...

Not to sure if it's a mid arm kit, can't seem to find that info but I do know that the max travel doesn't allow you to move your rear axel by 1" so I'm taking it's not a mid arm IDN * what was the length of your shocks and did you have a stock rear track bar? If you had a choice between the max travel, AEV, Metal cloak what would you recommend. My heart was set on Rock Krawler but you slowly crushed my dreams ☹

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[Ddays]

Not to sure if it's a mid arm kit, can't seem to find that info but I do know that the max travel doesn't allow you to move your rear axel by 1" so I'm taking it's not a mid arm IDN * what was the length of your shocks and did you have a stock rear track bar? If you had a choice between the max travel, AEV, Metal cloak what would you recommend. My heart was set on Rock Krawler but you slowly crushed my dreams ☹

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Man I'm sorry - last thing I wanna be is a dream crusher! :crazyeyes: If the RK kit is just a regular length arm kit I would not hesitate to use it. My issues were not with the quality of the kit rather they were with the clearance issues caused by those rear arms. Up in the the front I had zero issues. I've also heard & read good things about the AEV kits but the drop brackets in some of them seem counterproductive to me.

As far as shocks go, at the time I ran Fox reservoirs for a 4-6" lift. They performed just fine. The RK rear track bar gave me the clearance issues shown above. I threw the stock bar back on and that solved those issues but the spring bowing remained until I went to the EVO LA kit. One thing I would highly suggest is to use a shitload of anti-sieze on the arm joints before you thread them in. They proved impossible to adjust after a year and a half on the vehicle.

I'm sorry to throw another wrench into your plans but have you looked at any of the kits that have the Johnny Joint ends? There is a marked difference between them and everything else on the market. EVO, Currie, Clayton, and Synergy all use them. Comparing them side by side with everyone else's ends is eye-opening. I realize you may have availability/import issues but may take another look at those before you pull the trigger?

Lastly, if you decide to go with the RK kit it will perform for you. As noted I had zero issues with the front - it did great. These are from a couple years ago.

 

[zombie hunter]

Man I'm sorry - last thing I wanna be is a dream crusher! :crazyeyes: If the RK kit is just a regular length arm kit I would not hesitate to use it. My issues were not with the quality of the kit rather they were with the clearance issues caused by those rear arms. Up in the the front I had zero issues. I've also heard & read good things about the AEV kits but the drop brackets in some of them seem counterproductive to me.

As far as shocks go, at the time I ran Fox reservoirs for a 4-6" lift. They performed just fine. The RK rear track bar gave me the clearance issues shown above. I threw the stock bar back on and that solved those issues but the spring bowing remained until I went to the EVO LA kit. One thing I would highly suggest is to use a shitload of anti-sieze on the arm joints before you thread them in. They proved impossible to adjust after a year and a half on the vehicle.

I'm sorry to throw another wrench into your plans but have you looked at any of the kits that have the Johnny Joint ends? There is a marked difference between them and everything else on the market. EVO, Currie, Clayton, and Synergy all use them. Comparing them side by side with everyone else's ends is eye-opening. I realize you may have availability/import issues but may take another look at those before you pull the trigger?

Lastly, if you decide to go with the RK kit it will perform for you. As noted I had zero issues with the front - it did great. These are from a couple years ago.


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So I checked the kit out again and it is a mid arm kit but it doesn't say anything about shifting the rear axel back.
I was planning on keeping my rear track bar stock so will I still run into the same issue?
Infront I have the JKS ADJ TB, tera flex HD tie rod and flip drag link and 3" pro comp hydraulic bump stops... fk my jeeps a whore with all these different brands lol so hopefully nothing rubs in the front.

With regards to shocks , 2 local shops told me 4-6" would be too long for a 3.5" kit but I had queried about the aev and bit the RK. I noticed alot of guys run the 4-6" shock with the 3.5 lift. Is there a reason for That? In my mind o would think the coils would pop out or the shafts will seize or maybe bend. Would the falcons wrk well with the RK kit?
With regards to your slinky coils, what was the reason behind that.
Apparently the joints are better on the new kits, I read that they fixed that issue but it's still not as good as the Currie joints.

With regards to other kits, I have shopped around on some American dealers websites but it will work out way to much to send over.
Only options I have here are Teraflex , bds which I have, Aev, Metal cloak; fearless and rock krawler... with prices we pay for kits in SA I could get a recon coil over in the states for the same price. It's sucks awesome looking jeep, the flex looks good on that kit

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[bouche03]

Man I'm sorry - last thing I wanna be is a dream crusher! :crazyeyes: If the RK kit is just a regular length arm kit I would not hesitate to use it. My issues were not with the quality of the kit rather they were with the clearance issues caused by those rear arms. Up in the the front I had zero issues. I've also heard & read good things about the AEV kits but the drop brackets in some of them seem counterproductive to me.

As far as shocks go, at the time I ran Fox reservoirs for a 4-6" lift. They performed just fine. The RK rear track bar gave me the clearance issues shown above. I threw the stock bar back on and that solved those issues but the spring bowing remained until I went to the EVO LA kit. One thing I would highly suggest is to use a shitload of anti-sieze on the arm joints before you thread them in. They proved impossible to adjust after a year and a half on the vehicle.

I'm sorry to throw another wrench into your plans but have you looked at any of the kits that have the Johnny Joint ends? There is a marked difference between them and everything else on the market. EVO, Currie, Clayton, and Synergy all use them. Comparing them side by side with everyone else's ends is eye-opening. I realize you may have availability/import issues but may take another look at those before you pull the trigger?

Lastly, if you decide to go with the RK kit it will perform for you. As noted I had zero issues with the front - it did great. These are from a couple years ago.

I have the RK kit, and although I have my own set of issues with it (mainly the poor powder coating) I will say that you can custom order any length arms from them. I ordered an X-Factor and had the rear arms cut to standard length due to all those clearance issues I knew they had.

Just food for thought