Locker types: what's the difference?

I think selectable lockers are the best option out there and of those, ARB.

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AWESOME THREAD. As always this forum is a wealth of knowledge and I love reading threads and learning valuable lessons... opinions included. I appreciate the links, videos and advice. I have a follow-on question after reading this forum...

I plan on upgrading to PR60's at some point, but am planning on running the stock Rubicon 44's until they fall apart. How weak/crappy/shitty/prone to fail are the air operated lockers on my 2005 Rubicon??? I guess I'll find out one way or the other but would love to hear from those who have run them before..:standing wave:
 
Armydog said:
AWESOME THREAD. As always this forum is a wealth of knowledge and I love reading threads and learning valuable lessons... opinions included. I appreciate the links, videos and advice. I have a follow-on question after reading this forum...

I plan on upgrading to PR60's at some point, but am planning on running the stock Rubicon 44's until they fall apart. How weak/crappy/shitty/prone to fail are the air operated lockers on my 2005 Rubicon??? I guess I'll find out one way or the other but would love to hear from those who have run them before..:standing wave:
Click to expand...

Does a 2005 come with air lockers or did you install them? Guys on here keep saying the rubi lockers are designed for the 32 BFG tires and no larger. Im sure they'll chime in with more Intel on this.

Cozdude, would you argue that there is less benefit than danger to running a detroit locker vs a selectable locker? Interested in your reasons on that for curiosity sake. :beer:

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Tigrcky said:
might i say good link mr will but still that is air vs air yes i will agree if you go air locker go arb its hands down the best! id love to see that vs a real detroit locker! just keep in mind that while the strength is debated the real question is, what would you like to run. :thumb:
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I really got curious when I looked into a PR44 and it asked me about a locker and detroit came up. Then I looked into Eaton and in theory that's a bad ass locker. But up front sounds scary as hell lol

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JKWrang said:
I really got curious when I looked into a PR44 and it asked me about a locker and detroit came up. Then I looked into Eaton and in theory that's a bad ass locker. But up front sounds scary as hell lol

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i ran a auto locker in the front for years, not a single issue! even on ice and snow, in fact that jeep handled better on ice and snow then anything else i have ever driven! so whats so scary about one in the front?
 
Armydog said:
AWESOME THREAD. As always this forum is a wealth of knowledge and I love reading threads and learning valuable lessons... opinions included. I appreciate the links, videos and advice. I have a follow-on question after reading this forum...

I plan on upgrading to PR60's at some point, but am planning on running the stock Rubicon 44's until they fall apart. How weak/crappy/shitty/prone to fail are the air operated lockers on my 2005 Rubicon??? I guess I'll find out one way or the other but would love to hear from those who have run them before..:standing wave:
Click to expand...

JKWrang said:
Does a 2005 come with air lockers or did you install them? Guys on here keep saying the rubi lockers are designed for the 32 BFG tires and no larger. Im sure they'll chime in with more Intel on this.

Cozdude, would you argue that there is less benefit than danger to running a detroit locker vs a selectable locker? Interested in your reasons on that for curiosity sake. :beer:

Sent via secret squirrel underground network.
Click to expand...


just to give you guys the info the lockers in the rubicon always have been electric lockers, i know in 2006 they offered a lift kit and a 32 inch tire package that would not void the factory warranty and i have heard of guys running 35s on them with no real issues, but if you are going with anything bigger then 33s you will want to regear cause that 4.0 will start struggling, so as you regear you put in air arbs and call it good
 
Army_Vet said:
Well the Detroit is an auto locker, going around a corner can fool it into sensing a slip, so mid turn it may lock. With the HIGH traction of a paved road this can create an interesting moment
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That.

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JKWrang said:
That.

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the only time i have had a front locker auto engage is when i was in 4 hi and forgot about it and tried to do a power slide on snow with my rear and it just grabbed and went, if you are in 2hi on dry pavement you will be free spinning on the front drive shaft and since there will be no power put to the locker from the pinon gear then it wont activate on your front, ever. :yup:
 
Tigrcky said:
the only time i have had a front locker auto engage is when i was in 4 hi and forgot about it and tried to do a power slide on snow with my rear and it just grabbed and went, if you are in 2hi on dry pavement you will be free spinning on the front drive shaft and since there will be no power put to the locker from the pinon gear then it wont activate on your front, ever. :yup:
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Oh true. It'll be invisible on the front in 2wd! I actually read that on Eaton earlier. :cool::thumbup::beer:

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JKWrang said:
Oh true. It'll be invisible on the front in 2wd! I actually read that on Eaton earlier. :cool::thumbup::beer:

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yeah totally!!!!!! and the only time i felt the front resist was at -30 and i was running 75-140 gear oil, thick stuff, but me personally i love auto lockers! once i get my JK im going to try to get PR80s with detroits front and rear!
 
JKWrang said:
Hmmm... ill have to msg him and ask. The articles mainly talk about locked rear diffs. I guess most people dont lock the front?

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Click to expand...

A Detroit works the same as most automatic lockers. The reason it is stronger and more expensive than the other automatic lockers is that it comes with the entire carrier, versus say an ez-locker, that just replaces the spider gears and re-uses your factory carrier.

Most* Automatic lockers do not sense wheel speed or a difference in wheel speed, like posi traction does. Automatic lockers simply lock when power is applied, and unlock when power is released. IF you understand how it works, AND respect it, it can be driven on the road without any problems.

If you like to rock crawl, or you find yourself needing a front locker, then get one. Most people don't wheel hard enough to justify having one, as they can tug on your steering and make It hard to turn in general.

* there have been some lockers that waited for a difference in wheel speed before engaging.... That was never a good idea.. They are appropriately nicknamed "grenade lockers" because when they finally decide to engage, there is so much force, that they often destroy your differential like a grenade went off inside! (The ones I knew of were In older gm trucks, and I don't know of any aftermarket companies making this type)


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
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David1tontj said:
A Detroit works the same as most automatic lockers. The reason it is stronger and more expensive than the other automatic lockers is that it comes with the entire carrier, versus say an ez-locker, that just replaces the spider gears and re-uses your factory carrier.

Most* Automatic lockers do not sense wheel speed or a difference in wheel speed, like posi traction does. Automatic lockers simply lock when power is applied, and unlock when power is released. IF you understand how it works, AND respect it, it can be driven on the road without any problems.

If you like to rock crawl, or you find yourself needing a front locker, then get one. Most people don't wheel hard enough to justify having one, as they can tug on your steering and make It hard to turn in general.

* there have been some lockers that waited for a difference in wheel speed before engaging.... That was never a good idea.. They are appropriately nicknamed "grenade lockers" because when they finally decide to engage, there is so much force, that they often destroy your differential like a grenade went off inside! (The ones I knew of were In older gm trucks, and I don't know of any aftermarket companies making this type)


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
Click to expand...

Great info thanks!!! Good way to put that.

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Jkwrang here is how I see it. Since we are not out west like the rest of the crew only a rear locker is needed. (I will eventually be getting a front locker but that will be in my PR44.) we don't have some of the crazy rock gardens or rock crawling that they have where we would need a front locker. I know driving in the snow last wheel while in 4 hi my traction control was still kicking in front and rear when needed and it worked amazing. No need for me to turn my compressor on and turn my air locker on cause of it. If you do end up getting a locker I would make sure it's a selectable one like an ARB or a Yukon locker. I know I wouldn't want to have to change my driving style (even know I'm a slow driver anyway) for a locker that has the potential to randomly turn on and twist a shaft or something like that. :.02cents:



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David1tontj said:
A Detroit works the same as most automatic lockers. The reason it is stronger and more expensive than the other automatic lockers is that it comes with the entire carrier, versus say an ez-locker, that just replaces the spider gears and re-uses your factory carrier.

Most* Automatic lockers do not sense wheel speed or a difference in wheel speed, like posi traction does. Automatic lockers simply lock when power is applied, and unlock when power is released. IF you understand how it works, AND respect it, it can be driven on the road without any problems.

If you like to rock crawl, or you find yourself needing a front locker, then get one. Most people don't wheel hard enough to justify having one, as they can tug on your steering and make It hard to turn in general.

* there have been some lockers that waited for a difference in wheel speed before engaging.... That was never a good idea.. They are appropriately nicknamed "grenade lockers" because when they finally decide to engage, there is so much force, that they often destroy your differential like a grenade went off inside! (The ones I knew of were In older gm trucks, and I don't know of any aftermarket companies making this type)


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
Click to expand...

Great way of putting it Dave!


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Tigrcky said:
just to give you guys the info the lockers in the rubicon always have been electric lockers, i know in 2006 they offered a lift kit and a 32 inch tire package that would not void the factory warranty and i have heard of guys running 35s on them with no real issues, but if you are going with anything bigger then 33s you will want to regear cause that 4.0 will start struggling, so as you regear you put in air arbs and call it good
Click to expand...

Interesting, but I'm pretty sure that the lockers in my stock 2005 Rubicon TJ are air operated - according to jeep tech info. Is this incorrect?
 
JKWrang said:
Does a 2005 come with air lockers or did you install them? Guys on here keep saying the rubi lockers are designed for the 32 BFG tires and no larger. Im sure they'll chime in with more Intel on this.

Cozdude, would you argue that there is less benefit than danger to running a detroit locker vs a selectable locker? Interested in your reasons on that for curiosity sake. :beer:

Sent via secret squirrel underground network.
Click to expand...

The 2005 Rubicon I have has air operated lockers in the D44s front and rear from the factory. I am pretty sure these are air operated... Is this unusual?
 
Armydog said:
Interesting, but I'm pretty sure that the lockers in my stock 2005 Rubicon TJ are air operated - according to jeep tech info. Is this incorrect?
Click to expand...

Armydog said:
The 2005 Rubicon I have has air operated lockers in the D44s front and rear from the factory. I am pretty sure these are air operated... Is this unusual?
Click to expand...

I was a jeep salesman in 06 (it was kinda cool driving jeeps and i saw the first JK to get to colorado springs colorado in aug of 06) and they were all electric with no special order for air lockers. on your switch panel do you have one switch for both? do you have a compressor switch? the electric ones use one switch, the air ones use a switch per locker and a compressor switch. why is it that you think you have air lockers?:thinking:

edit: i found some info confirming that you do have air lockers, its a pump near the axle and 2 independent pumps. I would advise you upgrade when you destroy them which at some point you prob will!
 
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Armydog said:
The 2005 Rubicon I have has air operated lockers in the D44s front and rear from the factory. I am pretty sure these are air operated... Is this unusual?
Click to expand...

The Tj rubicons were air lockers, when the jk's came out they went to electric lockers. :)


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
cozdude said:
Jkwrang here is how I see it. Since we are not out west like the rest of the crew only a rear locker is needed. (I will eventually be getting a front locker but that will be in my PR44.) we don't have some of the crazy rock gardens or rock crawling that they have where we would need a front locker. I know driving in the snow last wheel while in 4 hi my traction control was still kicking in front and rear when needed and it worked amazing. No need for me to turn my compressor on and turn my air locker on cause of it. If you do end up getting a locker I would make sure it's a selectable one like an ARB or a Yukon locker. I know I wouldn't want to have to change my driving style (even know I'm a slow driver anyway) for a locker that has the potential to randomly turn on and twist a shaft or something like that. :.02cents:



Sent from my iPhone
Click to expand...

Sounds like I might get to save my money then, thanks!

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