Lifted 2012 JK's - Skip the Y-Pipe & Just Get a 1310 Front Driveshaft

[texas05]

Really?

View attachment 63621

Or, is it that you have a manual?

Great question, 99% certain but I had to go and verify. I have a 14 auto it does not extend under the pan. I also checked my sons Sport and it's the same (yes we bought another and now have 2; the Sport is a 2 door softtop). Here is a picture, is this different than previous years?

Thanks

 

[wayoflife]

Great question, 99% certain but I had to go and verify. I have a 14 auto it does not extend under the pan. I also checked my sons Sport and it's the same (yes we bought another and now have 2; the Sport is a 2 door softtop). Here is a picture, is this different than previous years?

Thanks

Sorry, I see what you're saying, the shield doesn't extend under the pan. Yeah, you're right, maybe you'd be okay without it then.

 

[texas05]

Sorry, I see what you're saying, the shield doesn't extend under the pan. Yeah, you're right, maybe you'd be okay without it then.

I'm cutting it off. I talked to Bill at Coast and others have done the same thing. Heat is not an issue right there with the driveshaft.

 

[texas05]

Done. Now I don't have to worry about it. Also you can see how the crossover is parallel to the crossmember now and above it. Skid install won't be an issue now.

 

[JayKay]

So the maximum shaft diameter is the same between the 1310 and 1350, correct? Is it worth going to a 1350 if a PR44 or newer equivalent with the next 4-5 years I only do minor wheeling at the time, mostly highway driving and some light trails. I just want to upgrade the front shaft and get rid of the exhaust extensions because is don't like how they put the hangers and the rest of the exhaust system under stress by having everything pushed back .

 

[JK_Dave]

So the maximum shaft diameter is the same between the 1310 and 1350, correct? Is it worth going to a 1350 if a PR44 or newer equivalent with the next 4-5 years I only do minor wheeling at the time, mostly highway driving and some light trails. I just want to upgrade the front shaft and get rid of the exhaust extensions because is don't like how they put the hangers and the rest of the exhaust system under stress by having everything pushed back .

The shaft diameter is smaller on a 1310 than a 1350. I can't recall how much, but that may differ from one manufacturer to another.

What size tires are you planning to run? That's your primary question to answer to determine which one is right for you. This is a 1350 compared to the stock d/s.

 

[JayKay]

The shaft diameter is smaller on a 1310 than a 1350. I can't recall how much, but that may differ from one manufacturer to another.

What size tires are you planning to run? That's your primary question to answer to determine which one is right for you.

If I go with a J.E. Reel 1350, it'll clear the crossover, right? Pretty sure it should since Eddie says it will, I think he knows his stuff I plan to run 37s max once I get a PR44, but the PR44 won't be for a few years as I said earlier. Anything bigger than 37s would be overkill for what I plan on doing and for the trails here in MO, unless I was building a rock bouncer. Just curious if a 1350 would be overkill or not.

 

[wayoflife]

If I go with a J.E. Reel 1350, it'll clear the crossover, right? Pretty sure it should since Eddie says it will, I think he knows his stuff I plan to run 37s max once I get a PR44, but the PR44 won't be for a few years as I said earlier. Anything bigger than 37s would be overkill for what I plan on doing and for the trails here in MO, unless I was building a rock bouncer. Just curious if a 1350 would be overkill or not.

Technically, a 1310 is weaker than a factory shaft as the one u-joint it has is actually a 1330. For most people, a 1310 will get the job done but if you're going to run 37's, I personally would recommend getting a 1350. Oh, and yes, my JE Reel clears.

 

[JayKay]

Technically, a 1310 is weaker than a factory shaft as the one u-joint it has is actually a 1330. For most people, a 1310 will get the job done but if you're going to run 37's, I personally would recommend getting a 1350. Oh, and yes, my JE Reel clears.

Hoping you'd say that. I'd rather get the 1350 and have it be more than I truly need, than to go with the 1310 and not really upgrade from the stock, other than clearing the exhaust. Last I looked the 1350 isn't much more $$ than the 1310 anyway

 

[JK_Dave]

Hoping you'd say that. I'd rather get the 1350 and have it be more than I truly need, than to go with the 1310 and not really upgrade from the stock, other than clearing the exhaust. Last I looked the 1350 isn't much more $$ than the 1310 anyway

Well, while you are clearing the exhaust easier, you're really upgrading to replace the factory CV joint for a double cardan with u-joints. That's your main benefit. For just an extra $200, it's worth it IMO.

 

[JayKay]

Well, while you are clearing the exhaust easier, you're really upgrading to replace the factory CV joint for a double cardan with u-joints. That's your main benefit. For just an extra $200, it's worth it IMO.

Yup, that's the way I look at it. As Eddie's OP stated, you're killing two birds with one stone. I'm sure that I'm like others with a '12+ JK, never thought about changing the shaft after a lift is installed, just looked at ways to modify the exhaust to clear the OE shaft.