Lift Kit “Must Haves”

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jakedaddy

New member
Sooo, I’ve decided to lift the Jeep, and I’d like to “do everything at once.” Well, at least the majority of it. Some stuff can wait, and there in lay the question. What do I NEED?

Below I detailed what I THINK I need to run a 4” Long Arm Suspension Lift w/ 37” tires (Maybe 35s if cost goes to high). Please tell me if I’m wrong or not. (Please keep in mind that “rock crawling” isn’t exactly my main focus. I enjoy off roading through woods and areas where you’d need a major 4WD, but not necessarily up a mountain face.)

  • 4” Long Arm Lift
  • Dual Steering Stabilizer
  • Cold Air Intake (Personal preference)
  • Tire Relocation Bracket & Tailgate Reinforcement Brackets
  • Steering Stabilizer Relocation Bracket
  • Wheel Spacers x 4 ea (1.75”; do I still need these if I run 35s instead?)
  • Wheels/Rims: 17x9x5.5 -12mm
  • 37or35x12.5r17 (5 Tires; Nitto Grappler G2)
  • Dynamax Exhaust (Personal Preference)
  • Synergy Drag Link
  • Synergy Tie Rod
  • Teraflex Ball Joints
  • 5.13 Front & Rear Gears
  • Adam’s Rear Drive Shaft (Lift kit only comes with an upgraded front drive shaft)
  • Big Brake Kit for Front only (Is this really necessary? Brands?)

  • Thanks.
 
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You might want to put what you're working on in the description.

I know because I dug for it, but others may not.

Since it's not a JT I'll keep my mouth shut and let the experts handle this.
 
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No need for the dual stabilizer or cold air intake. I wouldn't replace the ball joints unless they're bad and I certainly wouldn't use Teraflex.

If you get aftermarket wheels with proper backspacing, you won't need wheel spacers.

Not sure if rear driveshaft is needed or not.

I would wait on the brakes. You can always add those later if you're not happy with the stock set up.
 
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jakedaddy said:
You don’t think upgrading to 35s or higher would necessitate heavy duty ball joints? If not teraflex, who do you recommend?
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Plenty of people are running 35s and 37s on factory ball joints. Yes, they may wear out faster, but why replace them now when you may get another 20k out of them. I wouldn't trust Teraflex anything. Synergy just came out with some new ball joints and Eddie and Cindy just did a video on replacing them:

 
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Perhaps a Rubicon takeoff axle (or crate) to deal with the added weight of the increased tire size. Don't know if its my paranoia after having watched and read a ton with regards to the added stress on the 30....:unsure:
 
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thats_the_one said:
Perhaps a Rubicon takeoff axle (or crate) to deal with the added weight of the increased tire size. Don't know if its my paranoia after having watched and read a ton with regards to the added stress on the 30....:unsure:
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Is that for front and/or rear? I’ve seen a bunch of people swap axle shafts and add gussets to stock Dana 30/35s. No one ever posts updates on how they worked out.
 
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As mentioned no need for dual steering stabilizers. If you dial in your geometry and set it up properly then you really don’t need one at all and really, stock is fine.

as far as long arms they’re nice to have but far from a requirement. It’s a huge expense and commitment. The front axle is fine for 35’s and I’d even argue very light wheeling on 37’s but don’t wast any money on it. You’re better off finding a rubicon axle or going with an aftermarket setup. I’d stay on adjustable short arms and spend the money on a different front axle with rear gears and a locker to match.

The ball joints will wear out faster and some have seen the JL ball joints separate from the knuckle under the right circumstances. Synergy is an option for replacing ball joints. Not sure if Pro-steer ball joints are out yet but I’d look into it if they are. I personally run the American Iron Offroad Ball joint delete kit in my JKU and I’ve been very very happy. I’ve got a few friends with JL’s running them also and they are happy with that choice also.

Teraflex is fucking garbage with a few (very limited exceptions) I run their front axle and their falcon shocks. You couldn’t pay me to run anything else from them. Think long and hard about exactly what you want to do with your Jeep long term. Don’t settle. Get what you want the first time. Spend money where it needs to go and not where the internet says.

a 3-3.5 inch lift on a JL will work wonders for many many years even on short arms. And with the right shocks, you’ll get plenty of flex. I’d spend my money on axle upgrades before I spent it on long arms.

The stock brakes are really good. Run them and see what’s what. A cold air intake will make it sound uh… different. Or maybe cool. Dunno if that’s your thing. But performance is negligible. Spend that money elsewhere.

A wheel with proper backspacing 3.5-4.25 will be the right call instead of running spacers although if you fall in love with a wheel, get them and run the spacers if needed.

You’re likely going to rub in places anyway so figure out where you’re willing to make contact.
 
Upvote 1
jakedaddy said:
Sooo, I’ve decided to lift the Jeep, and I’d like to “do everything at once.” Well, at least the majority of it. Some stuff can wait, and there in lay the question. What do I NEED?

Below I detailed what I THINK I need to run a 4” Long Arm Suspension Lift w/ 37” tires (Maybe 35s if cost goes to high). Please tell me if I’m wrong or not. (Please keep in mind that “rock crawling” isn’t exactly my main focus. I enjoy off roading through woods and areas where you’d need a major 4WD, but not necessarily up a mountain face.)

  • 4” Long Arm Lift. - why long arm?
  • Dual Steering Stabilizer - no, no, just no unless you are looking to waste money and want it to "look cool"
  • Cold Air Intake (Personal preference) - not an overly good idea if you are going to wheel it, especially if mud will be involved.
  • Tire Relocation Bracket & Tailgate Reinforcement Brackets - you can do this or just replace your bumper with something designed to carry a larger tire/wheel
  • Steering Stabilizer Relocation Bracket - Most kits will come with this, my stock stabilizer on 37s has been great
  • Wheel Spacers x 4 ea (1.75”; do I still need these if I run 35s instead?) - if you buy the right wheels with the correct offset, this are not needed.
  • Wheels/Rims: 17x9x5.5 -12mm - depends on tire.
  • 37or35x12.5r17 (5 Tires; Nitto Grappler G2) - nittos are great
  • Dynamax Exhaust (Personal Preference)
  • Synergy Drag Link - yup
  • Synergy Tie Rod - yup
  • Teraflex Ball Joints - ok
  • 5.13 Front & Rear Gears - stick or automatic? Also, how big are you going on tires. Also also - dana 44 in the front, or 30?
  • Adam’s Rear Drive Shaft (Lift kit only comes with an upgraded front drive shaft) - personal preference
  • Big Brake Kit for Front only (Is this really necessary? Brands?) - Personal preference.

  • Thanks.
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Responses inline above ^
 
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WJCO said:
No need for the dual stabilizer or cold air intake. I wouldn't replace the ball joints unless they're bad and I certainly wouldn't use Teraflex.

If you get aftermarket wheels with proper backspacing, you won't need wheel spacers.

Not sure if rear driveshaft is needed or not.

I would wait on the brakes. You can always add those later if you're not happy with the stock set up.
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Solid advice right here ^^^^
jakedaddy said:
You don’t think upgrading to 35s or higher would necessitate heavy duty ball joints? If not teraflex, who do you recommend?
Click to expand...
You can now buy a factory JL with 35's and it comes with the same ball joints.
 
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