LED cube taken apart. Interesting.

R

RUBEERCON

New member
I'm sure a few of you guys have taken a LED light apart, if not here are some pics. I'm using the light boards for a boating project. I bought a set of Light Fox cubes for under 13.00 shipped. They have a 4.5 star rating so they must be good. Grin....

Anyway. You can see that the side gaskets are sealing the side caps. There is a gasket behind the clear lens but it was not touching much. The power cord also has a clear liquid sealant. Looking at the waterproofing I can only assume the would have potentially leaked.

I was surprised at how thin the boards are, amazing technology! A little flat chip will make you see spots! I ran the boards without the heat soaking housing and they never really got hot. This is a cheap light but at the same time it has plenty of output for the trails.

I do not have a way to test the wattage. Does anyone know what the true wattage would be?

Steve
 
I saw that but had some doubts.

My first soldering iron and my first soldering iron burn! Dam things get super hot!!!
 
RUBEERCON said:
Is it as simple as it looks to parallel the boards?
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Yup. V+ is the positive bus. Just mind that the wire gauge can handle the new total current load.

Put a Multimeter in series with the light to measure current (I) Then multiply by the voltage. Actual voltage, not just 12v.
 
I grew up working for my dads plumbing company, this being said I suck at electrical.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1476153509.567593.jpg
I'm sure I'm going to fry something!
 
I took apart my spare 20" bar apart a while back to see why I was having condensation issues and then one of the led boards started to turn blue. To me it seems like one of the major differences between all these brands, other than what LED chip they are using, is the reflector that goes over top. I still dont understand how some are as expensive as they are however.
 
hinrichs said:
I took apart my spare 20" bar apart a while back to see why I was having condensation issues and then one of the led boards started to turn blue. To me it seems like one of the major differences between all these brands, other than what LED chip they are using, is the reflector that goes over top. I still dont understand how some are as expensive as they are however.
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My thoughts exactly. Ill bet the extruded body is the most expensive part. though I guess even that gets cheaper in large quantities. Other than QA, I dont see much of a difference between a decent chinese set and an expensive name-brand set. Since its not a life saving feature, even QA doesn't need to be insane either.
 
Differences are between the care in weatherproofing...some are ip65, ip67, IP68 rated, reflector quality/design and ofcourse the led chips itself... higher quality chips have more consistent color, output and longevity

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calculating electrical loads

hey guys, some of the old formulas used to determine loads cannot be used with today's lighting. LED and HID to name two use electrical circuits to create light. LEDs use drivers that send a precise signal to the diode. This is where a lot of the cost of the units come from. Light fluctuation, color change and short diode life all depend of a precise signal. In the case of HID units the lamps are ballast driven. Either way use the manufacture's load estimate or if your building your own system use a multi meter and hook the test leads in series on the positive side. then use the "amp" setting on the dial. hope this helps.
 
I bought cheap china versions of the rigid lights and really want to compare like this to see how similar they are because they perform identical.


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