Last Minute Hydro Questions

Correct me if I'm wrong because I'm not a welder, but a lot of the aftermarket tie rods are chrome moly and I was told that welding to it weakens it, hence why everyone uses the clamps.
 
I know that rock hard clamps use a smaller threaded hole than the PSC one. I needed a bigger clamp for my currie tie rod and rock hard said their clamp wouldn't fit PSC's bolt. I know you're using RR, but just beware the bolt holes are different among the different clamps.

I'm running this cooler and it fits perfectly behind the grill and doesn't block the radiator.

View attachment 280951
View attachment 280950
 
I quickly added in the synergy misalignment spacers after seeing a lot of rub marks from a bolt on my tie rod flopping. For how cheap they are, its worth it right away. I also run a cooler, but I am running the larger upgraded PSC hoses for the 12+ system. For how low the cooler mounts, I dont see it blocking any airflow and why not just add one in for added peace of mind? Also running the tie rod clamp for the ram, felt it made more sense than welding tabs since I already swapped tie rods once so far and have to fine tune the location.

Good to know - I'll grab the spacers. How are they for actually holding in grease?
I might grab a cooler down the road, but I think I'll be fine for a bit. Low miles so the pumps still pretty strong.

Correct me if I'm wrong because I'm not a welder, but a lot of the aftermarket tie rods are chrome moly and I was told that welding to it weakens it, hence why everyone uses the clamps.

That's what I thought as well - I heard that the clamps have a tendency to slip on the tie rod though.
 
Good to know - I'll grab the spacers. How are they for actually holding in grease?
I might grab a cooler down the road, but I think I'll be fine for a bit. Low miles so the pumps still pretty strong.



That's what I thought as well - I heard that the clamps have a tendency to slip on the tie rod though.

I'm not the most hardcore guy out there but in the two years mine's been on I have yet to experience any slippage. Those synergy clamps are pretty stout.
 
Kit is on the way! Great service so far from RR. Shipped same day that the payment was made.
Ended up being very inexpensive with the core exchange.

Question regarding clamps. I picked up a synergy (model #8003) for cheap.
I noticed on their website afterwards it states "not intended for use with hydro assist"
Are any of you running one? It looks the exact same as the others, size and type of metal.
Was just going to weld the tabs to the clamp opposed to using a bolt.

**It looks like they made two clamps previously and discontinued one?

***Looks like they did make two clamps - the hydro one is discontinued.
I'll add this for reference - the new clamp isn't rated for hydro because there is no welded bung.
The threads are not long enough - however the clamp is actually the same.
So if you weld the hydro tabs to the clamp - or add a bung - there's no issue using it.
 
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Kit is on the way! Great service so far from RR. Shipped same day that the payment was made.
Ended up being very inexpensive with the core exchange.

Question regarding clamps. I picked up a synergy (model #8003) for cheap.
I noticed on their website afterwards it states "not intended for use with hydro assist"
Are any of you running one? It looks the exact same as the others, size and type of metal.
Was just going to weld the tabs to the clamp opposed to using a bolt.

**It looks like they made two clamps previously and discontinued one?

***Looks like they did make two clamps - the hydro one is discontinued.
I'll add this for reference - the new clamp isn't rated for hydro because there is no welded bung.
The threads are not long enough - however the clamp is actually the same.
So if you weld the hydro tabs to the clamp - or add a bung - there's no issue using it.

I’m not a fan of the bolt and know Matt at WTOR isn’t either. Welding the tabs on the clamp is the preferred method if you can do it.


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Ordered my kit today from RR.
What are most of you using for the tie rod clamp?
I'm using a Synergy tie rod. I see PSC makes one - as does Synergy.
Any reason not to just weld the tabs to the tie rod?
Do I NEED the low misalignment spacers right away?
Coolers - Do you run one? Are they really needed?

Pretty happy to finally get this set up to cure my steering woes.
Driving anything high traction is brutal and requires a lot of wheelspin to let me turn - which usually leads to broken shit.

I guess it’s too late now but I installed the PSC kit with Box/pump/res/ram, and added a cooler. When I installed the system i installed a dual pass aluminum heat sink cooler. the system ran like shit and the temps were stupid high, I couldn’t bleed the system properly because the cooler trapped air in itself. I removed it and ran w/o a cooler for about a month, the res was really hot to the touch after running for several minutes but the temps were lower than when I had the heat sink cooler. so I added a radiator style cooler and an aux fan which did bring down the temps. I cannot say the system ran better or worse with or without the radiator style cooler and fan. I later learned that a hydro systems run hot and that it is normal and the temps I was experiencing when I ran it for a brief period without any cooler were not abnormally high. I would swap out your synergy tierod to something that doesn’t flop w/o spacers that you need to buy at an additional cost. I am running the PSC clamp and have not had an issue with it slipping.
 
I guess it’s too late now but I installed the PSC kit with Box/pump/res/ram, and added a cooler. When I installed the system i installed a dual pass aluminum heat sink cooler. the system ran like shit and the temps were stupid high, I couldn’t bleed the system properly because the cooler trapped air in itself. I removed it and ran w/o a cooler for about a month, the res was really hot to the touch after running for several minutes but the temps were lower than when I had the heat sink cooler. so I added a radiator style cooler and an aux fan which did bring down the temps. I cannot say the system ran better or worse with or without the radiator style cooler and fan. I later learned that a hydro systems run hot and that it is normal and the temps I was experiencing when I ran it for a brief period without any cooler were not abnormally high. I would swap out your synergy tierod to something that doesn’t flop w/o spacers that you need to buy at an additional cost. I am running the PSC clamp and have not had an issue with it slipping.

where did you place the cooler?

to properly bleed the dual pass cooler, you need to have the end with the hoses higher than the opposite end while bleeding the system.

I have mine on the front of the radiator along bottom rail. I was able to raise the hose end and let the other end hang down in front while I bled it.

I can tell you from experience the radiator style cooler blocks air flow (worse if using a dual setup) and will begin to leak at the hose fitting joints. I'm guessing it's the line pressure that weakens them. Haven't had any issue since changing out to the heat sink style.
 
where did you place the cooler?

to properly bleed the dual pass cooler, you need to have the end with the hoses higher than the opposite end while bleeding the system.

I have mine on the front of the radiator along bottom rail. I was able to raise the hose end and let the other end hang down in front while I bled it.

I can tell you from experience the radiator style cooler blocks air flow (worse if using a dual setup) and will begin to leak at the hose fitting joints. I'm guessing it's the line pressure that weakens them. Haven't had any issue since changing out to the heat sink style.

I had the heat sink cooler installed in front of the radiator by the ambient temp sensor. I tried to but I just couldn’t get the hose end high enough, I think I had cut the hose to fit so even though I could get it slightly higher I still wasn’t able to get all the air out. After I swapped to the radiator style I haven’t had any issues, and that’s still the case after swapping the whole system from one Jeep to another. Point is, yes the cooler will keep the temps lower but they aren’t necessary.


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I guess it’s too late now but I installed the PSC kit with Box/pump/res/ram, and added a cooler. When I installed the system i installed a dual pass aluminum heat sink cooler. the system ran like shit and the temps were stupid high, I couldn’t bleed the system properly because the cooler trapped air in itself. I removed it and ran w/o a cooler for about a month, the res was really hot to the touch after running for several minutes but the temps were lower than when I had the heat sink cooler. so I added a radiator style cooler and an aux fan which did bring down the temps. I cannot say the system ran better or worse with or without the radiator style cooler and fan. I later learned that a hydro systems run hot and that it is normal and the temps I was experiencing when I ran it for a brief period without any cooler were not abnormally high. I would swap out your synergy tierod to something that doesn’t flop w/o spacers that you need to buy at an additional cost. I am running the PSC clamp and have not had an issue with it slipping.

I haven't installed the kit yet so I still have the option of running a cooler. I'll try running without and see how it goes - I've heard a bunch of mixed things about them.
My current setup doesn't overheat as is - even when severely binded, so I'm thinking it should be alright with the help of the cylinder.
Did you use the standard barbed fittings on the cooler? I'd be worried they wouldn't be able to hold the pressure.
Already have the tie rod so the spacers aren't too bad of an expense. Had I known I'd be going to hydro so quickly I probably would've grabbed something else.
 
Kit is on the way! Great service so far from RR. Shipped same day that the payment was made.
Ended up being very inexpensive with the core exchange.

Question regarding clamps. I picked up a synergy (model #8003) for cheap.
I noticed on their website afterwards it states "not intended for use with hydro assist"
Are any of you running one? It looks the exact same as the others, size and type of metal.
Was just going to weld the tabs to the clamp opposed to using a bolt.

**It looks like they made two clamps previously and discontinued one?

***Looks like they did make two clamps - the hydro one is discontinued.
I'll add this for reference - the new clamp isn't rated for hydro because there is no welded bung.
The threads are not long enough - however the clamp is actually the same.
So if you weld the hydro tabs to the clamp - or add a bung - there's no issue using it.

That's too bad they stopped making the one with the boss, I've seen them with tabs welded on.

I ran one on a synergy tie rod, only issue I had was the synergy tie rod is relatively straight and gets very close to the diff cover when turning.

Once I added the ram assist, the flop was causing the ram to hit the diff cover on the PR44.

a quick search and it looks like PSC is the only one making them with the boss.

I 've been running the 6 bolt clamp and haven't had an issue in it moving since installed in 2014
 
I am going to install my RR cylinder and modified pump next week and go for it. Like others I have seen such mixed results with coolers and no coolers that it will be worth trying it with just the ram and pump.


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I ran one on a synergy tie rod, only issue I had was the synergy tie rod is relatively straight and gets very close to the diff cover when turning.
Once I added the ram assist, the flop was causing the ram to hit the diff cover on the PR44.

Once you added the boots I'm assuming that was resolved?
Mine hits right now (steering stabilizer) so I think I'm going to weld the hydro tabs further left on the bracket.
 
Once you added the boots I'm assuming that was resolved?
Mine hits right now (steering stabilizer) so I think I'm going to weld the hydro tabs further left on the bracket.

adding the boots helped but didn't fully resolve it. I had to limit my turning radius but ultimately I ended up getting a different tie rod.

moving the whole unit more passenger may help.
 
Did you use the standard barbed fittings on the cooler? I'd be worried they wouldn't be able to hold the pressure.

Yes, you use the barbed fittings on the low pressure side of the system. I have been wanting to change the factory return line to something without a splice/barb that would go directly to the cooler.
 
Kit arrived today.

IMG_20171103_141842.jpg

Everything was packaged well - the steering box is double ported for a V8 conversion as well (future upgrade). Lines included are really nice - 4800psi rated.

Will be doing the install/first impressions tomorrow.

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For now yes, it's easy enough to add one in the future if it ever becomes a problem.
My steering doesn't overheat at the moment so I'm assuming with the assist it will generate less heat than before.

Exactly what is was thinking also. I am going to install mine next week with no cooler also.


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You gonna run it with no cooler?


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those lines are pre-cut nice but make sure you tests fit how far left you can mount the ram (previous post) and that you'll have enough line droop before welding any tabs.

you don't want to get it all set and pull a like apart on 1st droop
 
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