Jku build dilemmas?

Take a look when you get your Jeep but you might be able to skip the pinch seams too. Jeep changed them and cut them back out of the factory starting mid 13 model year. About a month after I bought my 13, rrrrggg..

I keep forgetting they come trimmed now. But when he gets tires, might have to trim on full stuff.
 
if you're getting a 2014 Rubi, the axle shafts are beefier than previous models and I believe run 1350 joints - save your money until you actually need them.

agree 1350 drive shafts, Tom Woods are good shafts, just be sure to request Spicer or Neapco u-joints.

Stock SS should suffice provided the lift is installed properly.

Evo Enforcer would provide a great DD ride with the Bilstein 5100's, personally I have Clayton and it's served me well, I've driven a JKU with enforcer and the springs provide a little softer ride on the road - but it's all relative I suppose.

pinch seams already trimmed on newer models

you'll want to get a Procal or Superchips to fine tune tire size to trans shift points as well as getting the option to control TPMS, tune and other fun stuff...

depending on how hard you plan to play offroad, you may consider a PSC Motorsports steering assist with 37+ tires

if the dealer is installing the lift you will pay a premium, if they pitch the covered under warranty card, make sure they spell it out clearly - the dealer covers the lift, not Chrysler.

welcome ! :beer:
 
if you're getting a 2014 Rubi, the axle shafts are beefier than previous models and I believe run 1350 joints - save your money until you actually need them.

agree 1350 drive shafts, Tom Woods are good shafts, just be sure to request Spicer or Neapco u-joints.

Stock SS should suffice provided the lift is installed properly.

Evo Enforcer would provide a great DD ride with the Bilstein 5100's, personally I have Clayton and it's served me well, I've driven a JKU with enforcer and the springs provide a little softer ride on the road - but it's all relative I suppose.

pinch seams already trimmed on newer models

you'll want to get a Procal or Superchips to fine tune tire size to trans shift points as well as getting the option to control TPMS, tune and other fun stuff...

depending on how hard you plan to play offroad, you may consider a PSC Motorsports steering assist with 37+ tires

if the dealer is installing the lift you will pay a premium, if they pitch the covered under warranty card, make sure they spell it out clearly - the dealer covers the lift, not Chrysler.

welcome ! :beer:

Very detailed reply, thank you. I'm getting the sport model because I want to build it up over time, and will most likely replace most features the rubicon comes with anyways. Are the sport model axle shafts of 2014 like the rubi's?
 
The sport has a d30 front, the rubicon has a d44 front axle. The one other thing to consider is what all features you want and resell value. It's all up to you. I have a Rubicon and a Sport. I hate to say it but I miss all my creature comforts that my rubicon has and my sport doesn't. I need that auto climate control, heated seats, etc when climbing over curbs at the mall :). It's also nice on the 14s that you get the extra info in the EVIC on Sahara and rubicon... trans temp, oil pressure, digital speed, individual tire pressures, etc. the sport doesn't have it.

Also if you get a rubicon and you decide to upgrade axles later you can use the internals from the rubicon front in a pro rock or you could sell it, they go pretty quick. You will get next to nothing for a sport d30 front end.

Just my 2c. It's all if you want to spend the extra several thousand to get the rubicon and it's extra creature comforts too.
 
Someone pointed me in the direction of the metal cloak game changer lift (arb edition), which seems like a stronger deal than the evo enforcer. Any takers on preferences?
 
Someone pointed me in the direction of the metal cloak game changer lift (arb edition), which seems like a stronger deal than the evo enforcer. Any takers on preferences?

If you're going to spend extra money, then hard to beat the enforcer with king shocks.
 
If you're going to spend extra money, then hard to beat the enforcer with king shocks.

It looks like the metal cloak lift comes with so much more for virtually the same price. I like the drag link flip kit for the enforcer, but the list of what I get feels like I get more of what I pay for. Is there a reason to EVO's minimalistic setup?
 
It looks like the metal cloak lift comes with so much more for virtually the same price. I like the drag link flip kit for the enforcer, but the list of what I get feels like I get more of what I pay for. Is there a reason to EVO's minimalistic setup?

I'd rather have Johnny joins instead of the duroflex joints that cost more to rebuild. From what I've gathered, duroflex joints blow out and deform. The rear track bar bracket is to tall. No need to have your track bar raised a half foot. And don't care for coils that have a stack of dead coils on top that don't help ride quality. Just my opinion, Hell, I don't even have a lift kit on my jeep, but I'm pretty sure I'll go with something evo. Either the enforcer or bolt on coil overs. You're jeep and your money.
 
Ok ive done the research and have come up with this plan:

2014 jeep jku sport black/white

-EVO 4" enforcer, 37" clearance, king 2.0, flip kit

-Mickey Thompson Classic locks 17x9, 5x5, 4.5" BS

-Yokohama Geolander Mt+ 38's (they will work fine for my first uses)

-ARTEC front axle armor kit

-Body Armor High Clearance bumper/Tire Carrier

-Smitttbilt SRC stinger front bumper

-JE Reel 1310 Front Driveshaft

-Synergy ball joint set

-superchips trail dash

-Poison Spyder 1.5" wheel spacers

Sound good or am I missing anything?
 
Ok ive done the research and have come up with this plan:

2014 jeep jku sport black/white

-EVO 4" enforcer, 37" clearance, king 2.0, flip kit

-Mickey Thompson Classic locks 17x9, 5x5, 4.5" BS

-Yokohama Geolander Mt+ 38's (they will work fine for my first uses)

-ARTEC front axle armor kit

-Body Armor High Clearance bumper/Tire Carrier

-Smitttbilt SRC stinger front bumper

-JE Reel 1310 Front Driveshaft

-Synergy ball joint set

-superchips trail dash

-Poison Spyder 1.5" wheel spacers

Sound good or am I missing anything?

Not really sure where you got a lot of those products from as I only see a couple that I would run but more power to you. Oh and make sure you get a new axle since those 38's will more then likely kill your D30.
 
Not really sure where you got a lot of those products from as I only see a couple that I would run but more power to you. Oh and make sure you get a new axle since those 38's will more then likely kill your D30.

Yeah, the Artec truss is to hold it together while I wait on a fully loaded pr44. Surprisingly the 38's are slightly lighter than toyo mt 37's, but I know tire height is important too. Most parts I found from north ridge 4x4 and quadratec
 
Yeah, the Artec truss is to hold it together while I wait on a fully loaded pr44. Surprisingly the 38's are slightly lighter than toyo mt 37's, but I know tire height is important too. Most parts I found from north ridge 4x4 and quadratec

A trust is pointless it still will not help your ring and pinion size just saying! And why do u need 4.5 backspaced rims and wheel spacers u trying to be 80inchs wide?
 
You are worried about the tires hitting the fender while driving on the road? :thinking: I think you're bigger concern will be them hitting your pinch seams.

You do not need to trim them because there are none to trim on a 2014! Lol
 
A trust is pointless it still will not help your ring and pinion size just saying! And why do u need 4.5 backspaced rims and wheel spacers u trying to be 80inchs wide?

I was told that a 13.5 wide tire will rub control arms with more than 4" back spacing. I'm fine with the weakness in the ring and pinion, because once I can afford it ill upgrade to a pr44. This truss it to just get me by for now with light wheeling
 
I was told that a 13.5 wide tire will rub control arms with more than 4" back spacing. I'm fine with the weakness in the ring and pinion, because once I can afford it ill upgrade to a pr44. This truss it to just get me by for now with light wheeling

What is the truss going to do to prevent a blown ring and pinion, axle shafts, u joints? Nothing. It'll just bend your axle.
 
Not enough.

^^^this! The pinch seems in the 2013(and a half) model year and newer jks are only trimmed enough to clear most 35" tires.even a big 35 or 315 will still need minor trimming. My 35x12.50r17 nitto muds (which are a small 35) just perfectly clear everything.
 
I was told that a 13.5 wide tire will rub control arms with more than 4" back spacing. I'm fine with the weakness in the ring and pinion, because once I can afford it ill upgrade to a pr44. This truss it to just get me by for now with light wheeling

I ran 13.5 super swampers on 4.5bs and i had no rub!
 
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