JK seat belt retractor bolt tread size and pitch?

Spazbyt

Spazbyt

Hooked
Long story short I attempted to remove my seatbelt retractor and the bolt seized up so I had to cut it off and drill it out. I think I managed to save the treads but I'm going to need to chase the threads. I haven't received the new bolt and the description doesn't specify the thread pitch or count.
 
I read that Toyota uses a nonstandard thread on their seat belts for tamper resistance I guess. Does anyone know if this is true or standard practice for other manufactures these days? If so I guess I'll be drilling and tapping this thing to something else.
 
Measure it when it shows up. You can also chase the threads with a bolt little bit of lube - in out in out in out. Til it goes in with little resistance.

Who’s gonna be first to reply to that one?
 
That looks like the plan at this point. Fingers crossed it's just a readily available tap size.

That's some low-hanging fruit.
 
jeeeep said:
this bolt?

Seat Belt Bolt
6036496AA
Pan Head Screw
.437-20x.535. Inner Buckle to Seat. Lower Attach. Retractor to seat.
Click to expand...
No, it's #8. The bolt shipped today so we will find out soon. my dealer wanted over 400 for the whole belt assembly! I found one online for 250 so fingers crossed it's the right one.
Every 20 minute project is one broken bolt away from a 6 hour project.
 
Spazbyt said:
No, it's #8. The bolt shipped today so we will find out soon. my dealer wanted over 400 for the whole belt assembly! I found one online for 250 so fingers crossed it's the right one.
Every 20 minute project is one broken bolt away from a 6 hour project.
Click to expand...
Pan Head Screw
6105125AA
.437-20x40.00. Rear Retractor to C Pillar. Front retractor to b pillar. $9.18 for the bolt.
did you need the whole belt assembly?
 
jeeeep said:
Pan Head Screw
6105125AA
.437-20x40.00. Rear Retractor to C Pillar. Front retractor to b pillar. $9.18 for the bolt.
did you need the whole belt assembly?
Click to expand...
Yes, unfortunately I had to cut the retractor to get to the bolt. The whole ordeal was a cluster F. The hole is so close to the floor that my drill couldn't drill it straight and it's going to make tapping it a real PITA if it comes to that.
 

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Spazbyt said:
Yes, unfortunately I had to cut the retractor to get to the bolt. The whole ordeal was a cluster F. The hole is so close to the floor that my drill couldn't drill it straight and it's going to make tapping it a real PITA if it comes to that.
Click to expand...
damn, that sucks, concentrated heat time. I think they use red loctite on those.

I got lucky, I'd use the impact for a bit, then tapped the bolt head with a hammer and steel rod. Still took about 15 minutes to break it free doing that and lots of cussing.
 
I would go to the dealer and buy the $16 bolt. When I had to do mine a year ago I walked in and bought the bolt and walked out. They had it in their inventory.

I wouldnt use a random bolt for your seatbelt
 
Welp, I got bad news for you Adidas4275, I used a random bolt. I was only able to repair the threads with the tap but it left a little bit of slop that I was not ok with. I redrilled and tapped it to 12-1.5mm and used an automotive 10.9 flanged bolt so it should be better than only repairing the original threads. I'm just glad that fiasco is over! Oh, And if my wife asks I now need 5 points and buckets to really fix it right.
 
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