Benito
Caught the Bug
Which video is it in?
Not covered by warranty? What bunch of BS!
2013 JKExperiance part 1
JE Reel
- Thread starter just-lift-it
- Start date
2013 JKExperiance part 1
10frank9
Web Wheeler
Yeah folks want to chime in against what we recommend here on Wayalife. And I sure as heck didn't see them recommend an alternative. Just here to badmouth Reel.
Funny, you never mentioned how much caster you have set. Not like that would ever cause any vibrations.
Welcome to WAYALIFE. What adjustable rear upper control arms are you running to set your pinion angle? Got any pics of what it looks like?
First off, your shop is full of it and as others have mentioned, is just trying to get you to by their shaft. Having said that, IF they use Neapco or Spicer u-joints and can build you a well balanced shaft for about the same price as a JE Reel, it might be worth considering. Why? Because dealing with a local shop will make it cheaper and easier for you to get it rebalanced or serviced.
Wow. So that's the way a first time poster like you trolls a forum? I asked a legitimate question and the best you could do is accuse me of being a "for profit forum" that will flame you for telling what you call the truth. By the way, since you seemed to have missed it, JE Reel is NOT an advertiser of this forum AND, I even went so far as to recommend that the OP consider his local shop for a drive shaft. You my friend are a tool. :naw:
Why do you do us all a favor and go back to whatever other forum you came from.
just-lift-it
LOSER
So basically everyone agrees if the shop can build the shaft for the same price as a JE REEL (canadian dollars) which is like 560$ for a 1310 and 880$ for a 1350 then it would be a safe bet plus warrenty work is easier to get done... otherwise just buy off the shelf JE REEL or coast or what every brand you prefer...
10frank9
Web Wheeler
Be sure you get Neapco or Spicer u-joints. Those are the key along with the warranty.
just-lift-it
LOSER
Yeah he only ever uses Spicer on everything they build, and he said it will be made with .188 wall tube and made so that it fits my lift size perfectly so not much of the slip joint spline is showing for maximum strength and droop... just want a deffinate price before i say go ahead and make one
jhires
Member
That depends entirely on suspension geometry and how it is drooping. One side, both sides as would be of both were in the air, and also compression. Admittedly I know nothing about the wrangler link suspension geometry. I've only experienced a problem with drive shaft length on a leaf spring suspension. Once when over compressed when I jumped my pickup and shoved the front drive shaft into the transfer case. Expensive lesson for a 16 year old.
When you do lift your rig, and you keep your axles located where they are supposed to be, the distance between the output of the transfer case and the input of the axle will be further apart. You need to maintain enough stretch and compression in the drive shaft to prevent either bottoming out or over extending. So a longer drive shaft is in order to keep the same or better tolerances.
Another problem often faced is binding of the U-Joints from the angle now being much sharper. Some older Jeeps (TJ, XJ, others?) also use a slipyoke instead of a telescoping drive shaft which slides in and out of the transmission and often are not nearly long enough for the added travel at the same time cause the angle to be steeper, causing the need for a slipyoke eliminator kit to convert it to a telescoping drive shaft.
Aftermarket drive shafts often take all of these problems into account.
In a word, yes. On a JK, your drive shaft will collapse as your axle droops.
Kilroy
New member
Im new on here but not new to project jk. i have used local shops before for shafts on my lr witch is unheard of as i think i am the only one running a one peace rear shaft on my lr. checking here is the best thing you could do these guys here have been breaking parts for some time and take their nohow and experience to heart. Just do your research on shafts your local shop have done google there name and you'll most likely come up with forums that have info on them and the reliability. Just my 2 cents
suicideking
New member
Cool video! I'll have to watch more of the wayalife videos. Maybe I'll learn something ha ha.
So the video doesn't really show how he broke both shafts + the tie rod. Did he just land too hard or something?
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Tires spinning at full speed and come to a complete and sudden stop. He's probably lucky he didn't break more.
LOL!! That's what I was thinking. If you count his rear axle tubes spinning, I suppose he did.
When measuring for a new drive shaft, is it better to do it at ride height or full droop?
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If you are still running factory axles, there is NO need to measure anything. Just pick up an off the shelf shaft and it will work fine. Aftermarket shafts are made with enough slip to accommodate most any standard 3"-6" lift just fine. IF you are running a 60 or bigger, then you would need to measure for a shaft as it will need to be shorter and this is something you would at ride height.