If this, then that. Broke this, now what?

GraniteCrystal

GraniteCrystal

New member
This is a request for knowledge from the experienced members here. I'd love to have a guide for what to do if certain things break on the trail. Do I need to go back to town to get a new part? Can I just keep going and limp off the trail? Post up the issue and what you should do if this happens on the trail.

Pics are highly encouraged! Knowledge should only apply to JKs.

Example: if you break your front driveshaft, unbolt it and put it in the back. Jeep is rear wheel drive so stay in 2 High and limp off the trail. Replace with an aftermarket one when you get back to civilization.

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http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=621404
 
One thing that comes to mind that's fairly common is jam nuts on aftermarket parts loosening. An easy solution is to carry a large adjustable wrench or channel locks with you to tighten them.

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WJCO said:
One thing that comes to mind that's fairly common is jam nuts on aftermarket parts loosening. An easy solution is to carry a large adjustable wrench or channel locks with you to tighten them.

View attachment 228322
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I second this. ^^^ I have one just for the Jeep and stays in the Jeep.


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Overall "build thread"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build

DIY trail/tube door build http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24449-My-DIY-Doors
 
Broken front axle shaft: Make sure you have the tools to remove the following, brake caliper, unit bearing, axle nut, and of course the wheel! LOL

Get to a level as possible spot and loosen the lug nuts and if you can get to it the axle nut.
Lift the side affected and remove the wheel. If you could not get to the axle nut before do so now.
Now remove the caliper and using a bungee cord or some wire lift out of the way but don't let it hang by the brake line.
Remove the axle nut and washers. Remove the unit bearing bolts, then using your thumbs push on the axle as you pull the unit bearing out.
Then carefully remove the axle, now you must remove the stub shaft from the axle to put it back into the unit bearing.
You can use a hammer and sockets to remove the stub from the u-joint or a press if you have it with you.
Then put a tennis ball or a shop rag into the open axle tube to keep the gear oil from running out.
Now reverse the steps and you will be a 3 legged Jeep.
 
catahoula said:
Might not hurt when parts are tightened to mark them so it is quicker at spotting loose ones.
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This is always a good idea. An old racers trick is to dab a blob of Permatex blue at the edge of a bolt head or nut to secure it and note that you tightened it. Easy to see and it holds the bolt or nut in place damn well.
 
Pretty vague question here. Each part has different ways to fix. Hopefully I have most of the parts that can break in the jeep. I have enough tools to pretty much take anything on the jeep apart. So try to fix or replace it right on the spot.



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I feel like there was a thread on here of i broke this on the trail and did this to get me out but i cant seem to find it.

After having a rear axle shaft bearing fail on me i feel like i should have a bit more knowledge on trail repairs and what spares to take because i have none.

1. Starting with my only left the jeep stranded example, semi float rear axle shaft bearing = replace shaft carry a spare (finding a 35 spline spare might be tough though)

2. front axle shaft break or U joint break / drive shaft U joint break = either remove axle or drive shaft and run without or trail replace a U joint so carry some spares. Can you run the front axle with 1 shaft shaft pulled or will it puke the oil down the tube? Any reason to carry a spare front unit bearing? not sure i have heard of many breaks. Dont think i have all the tools necessary to trail swap a U joint though... yet

3. Steering, I've trail fixed a bent tie rod. is it worth carrying a spare TRE? i have all the tools to swap that if i need. Sector shaft (good luck), any benefit to having a spare sector shaft or just a whole steering box? either way trail repair sounds miserable.

4. Ring and pinion. should you break some teeth is it best just to remove the ring gear / locker / axle shafts, leave the drive shaft and pinion attached? what do you remove in that case to get you off the trail?

what else am i missing that can break and leave you stranded but fixable with some spare parts on a trip?
 
desertrunner said:
2. front axle shaft break or U joint break / drive shaft U joint break = either remove axle or drive shaft and run without or trail replace a U joint so carry some spares. Can you run the front axle with 1 shaft shaft pulled or will it puke the oil down the tube? Any reason to carry a spare front unit bearing? not sure i have heard of many breaks. Dont think i have all the tools necessary to trail swap a U joint though... yet
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I plugged the axle tube with some wadded up tinfoil and saran wrap when I broke a front shaft, just as much to keep water and dirt out as to keep oil in. When my u joint went it took the yoke ears with it, a spare would have done me no good.

desertrunner said:
4. Ring and pinion. should you break some teeth is it best just to remove the ring gear / locker / axle shafts, leave the drive shaft and pinion attached? what do you remove in that case to get you off the trail?
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Depends on the break,
A broken rear pinion shaft will cause the pinion head to pull into the carrier when moving forward (on a low pinion housing) causing it to lock up. Remove axles and carrier, remove pinion and driveshaft, reinstall carrier and axles and limp off the trail. No need to put all of the carrier shims back in just to limp off the trail, getting the carrier preload set perfect no longer matters and it makes installation of the carrier far easier.

Rear stripped pinion or broken teeth, pull the cover & get the big chunks out. Replace the cover add oil and limp off the trail. The R&P are already ruined anyway, any work done on the trail is to hopefully keep the carrier/locker/bearings from damage.

Either of these on the front just pull the axle shafts & drive shaft then limp off the trail.
 
Good thread idea. What happened when your rear axle shaft bearing failed? I’m curious because I just got my Jeep back from regearing at a shop and they replaced my rear axle shaft bearings. They said one was “pretty much toast”

however, I didn’t notice anything, nor do I notice anything different now…

I thought it was weird because they were the Timkens (I think) that came pressed on from Revolution a couple years ago.

I swap out my front hubs once a year-ish in my driveway and I have had one that was near catastrophic failure. Making a rough grinding noise when driving, the play in the wheel was terrible.
 
Cousin Clyde said:
Good thread idea. What happened when your rear axle shaft bearing failed? I’m curious because I just got my Jeep back from regearing at a shop and they replaced my rear axle shaft bearings. They said one was “pretty much toast”

however, I didn’t notice anything, nor do I notice anything different now…

I thought it was weird because they were the Timkens (I think) that came pressed on from Revolution a couple years ago.

I swap out my front hubs once a year-ish in my driveway and I have had one that was near catastrophic failure. Making a rough grinding noise when driving, the play in the wheel was terrible.
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My brake caliper pretty much held the whole thing in. The bearing fell apart in pieces when I pulled the shaft. Not exactly sure why it failed. It was a Dynatrac shaft installed about 5 years ago. Pretty low miles though. Not sure if it ran dry or what but not really trail fixable without a spare shaft20211031_185335.jpg20211113_122632.jpg
 
I had my rear drive shaft break at the CV. The t-case yoke failed. The only thing that got me off the trail was another guy carrying a brand new 1350 rear drive shaft with yokes. I was keeping my old ones to carry as trail spares but ended up selling them. If there was no drive shaft the plan was to limp me off the trail with front wheel drive. Realistically anything can happen its knowing how to do a good enough trail fix to get you to pavement. The above listed repairs are great.
 
Cousin Clyde said:
Good thread idea. What happened when your rear axle shaft bearing failed? I’m curious because I just got my Jeep back from regearing at a shop and they replaced my rear axle shaft bearings. They said one was “pretty much toast”

however, I didn’t notice anything, nor do I notice anything different now…

I thought it was weird because they were the Timkens (I think) that came pressed on from Revolution a couple years ago.

I swap out my front hubs once a year-ish in my driveway and I have had one that was near catastrophic failure. Making a rough grinding noise when driving, the play in the wheel was terrible.
Click to expand...
My brake caliper pretty much held the whole thing in. The bearing fell apart in pieces when I pulled the shaft. Not exactly sure why it failed. It was a Dynatrac shaft installed about 5 years ago. Pretty low miles though. Not sure if it ran dry or what but not really trail fixable without a spare View attachment 374404View attachment 374405
jesse3638 said:
I had my rear drive shaft break at the CV. The t-case yoke failed. The only thing that got me off the trail was another guy carrying a brand new 1350 rear drive shaft with yokes. I was keeping my old ones to carry as trail spares but ended up selling them. If there was no drive shaft the plan was to limp me off the trail with front wheel drive. Realistically anything can happen its knowing how to do a good enough trail fix to get you to pavement. The above listed repairs are great.
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Don't think I'll be carrying extra drive shafts but at least knowing pull the shaft and go front wheel drive is good.
If I'm lucky enough to only blow a U joint maybe a trail repair possible
 
Current spares in my Jeep (Just drove 12 hrs to Moab): Front & Rear Shafts, Tie Rod & Drag link Ends, Front Track Bar, Unit Bearings, 1350 U-Joint, 1350 U-Joint Race Straps.
 
desertrunner said:
My brake caliper pretty much held the whole thing in. The bearing fell apart in pieces when I pulled the shaft. Not exactly sure why it failed. It was a Dynatrac shaft installed about 5 years ago. Pretty low miles though. Not sure if it ran dry or what but not really trail fixable without a spare shaftView attachment 374404View attachment 374405
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Looking at the pic, it doesn't look like it was getting oiled. Could be that you were low on fluid.
 
desertrunner said:
1. Starting with my only left the jeep stranded example, semi float rear axle shaft bearing = replace shaft carry a spare (finding a 35 spline spare might be tough though)
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This is the single BIGGEST reason why I NEVER recommend semi-float shafts when doing an axle upgrade. Even on a 60, the shaft can break and it's happened to me. Full float is the only way to go. This is also why for factory axles, I typically recommend AGAINST custom shafts with higher splines. It's always easier to find or bum a spare off of people who all have the same thing.
desertrunner said:
2. front axle shaft break or U joint break / drive shaft U joint break = either remove axle or drive shaft and run without or trail replace a U joint so carry some spares. Can you run the front axle with 1 shaft shaft pulled or will it puke the oil down the tube? Any reason to carry a spare front unit bearing? not sure i have heard of many breaks. Dont think i have all the tools necessary to trail swap a U joint though... yet
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On a JK or newer, you can pull the shaft and keep going but you will want to plug the tube with something. A sock or a rag will work but better the seal the better. Of course, running chromoly shafts with full circle clips alone will do wonders to prevent a break in the first place. 99% of the breaks I've seen have come from bearing caps that have come free due to c-clips working themselves off and that leaves the trunion to just tear through everything. Your unit bearing should let you know it's going bad before it's a real problem so no need to carry a spare in my opinion. Or, so long as you're paying attention to your Jeep.
desertrunner said:
3. Steering, I've trail fixed a bent tie rod. is it worth carrying a spare TRE? i have all the tools to swap that if i need. Sector shaft (good luck), any benefit to having a spare sector shaft or just a whole steering box? either way trail repair sounds miserable.
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If you're running a tie-rod with ends that can be replaced, sure, carrying a spare isn't a bad idea but it isn't too common to see them break. The ones I have seen go were aftermarket ones like on a Steer Smart and on tie-rod flips. A sector shaft is great to have and I carry one on Moby - mainly because I've broken one on the trail. It is a big pain to replace on the trail and a spare box would make life easier but if you have ram assist, you can actually get by... just get by without one. Also, there are ways to steer without a steering box. Just a pain.
desertrunner said:
4. Ring and pinion. should you break some teeth is it best just to remove the ring gear / locker / axle shafts, leave the drive shaft and pinion attached? what do you remove in that case to get you off the trail?
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Yes. If you blow a ring and pinion, you'll need to remove the ring gear but you will ALSO NEED to over fill the housing. Without the ring gear, there is nothing to pump the fluid out to the axle bearings and that can cause them to burn out. Kind of like the pics you posted.
 
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