I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

Back to the minor flighty steering...

While servicing the front diff I noticed both front springs now have a bow. The drivers side is the worst and it bends towards the rear. The passenger side bends slightly to the front. Looking up at the upper springs, I can see that the .75” spacers in there look to be bulging out, opposite to the bend in each spring. I believe these were second hand spacers because I can’t find an invoice for them anywhere...so I ordered some new .75” spacers. I’m not sure how I missed it with all the other work I’ve done lately. I guess being focused on a particular job did it or these just crapped the bed??? Maybe there’s some binding from all the up and down while letting the axle droop???

I also have some play in the drag link at the pitman arm. I have a new OE style end on the way as well.

Here are some crappy pics of the springs...

Driver’s (worst)

IMG_7228.jpg

Passenger

IMG_7229.jpg
 
While man I hope thats an easy fix with the flighty steering glad to see that the gearing is working out hopefully your mpg will keep improving

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dcbjk said:
While man I hope thats an easy fix with the flighty steering glad to see that the gearing is working out hopefully your mpg will keep improving

Sent from my LG-US701 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Thanks David! I’ve been chasing it for awhile. It’s gotten better but still weird at times. I’m hoping with fresh spacers up front to compensate for the winch and diy bumper the springs will straighten up at least, then go from there. The bowing springs are truly a newish development I didn’t notice during ball joint, shock, tie rod or regear work recently. Again, I may have over looked it like a rookie due to being focused on the job(s) at hand.

I absolutely love the gearing on the pavement despite the drop in MPGs. I did a manual calculation the past two fill ups. 230 miles\15.959 gals = 14.4 and change. It’s still almost twice as good as the pickup I traded in for the Jeep. I didn’t buy it to be fast or great on gas. The overall driveability now adds smiles per gallons! I can actually pass someone on our AZ 2 lane highways without fear of not enough power or the engine sounding like it’ll blow!

I have a bunch of family stuff going on the next couple weeks. After that I’m hoping to hit some of my favorite local trails and feel that difference too!
 
I had only a few minutes to look things over today. It appears I screwed up when I slapped the current spacers in. The coil is on the spacers, not the OE isolators. It appears as if the AZ elements and the pressure of the spring is what’s causing the spacers to collapse on one side which is causing the springs to bow.

I ordered up some new isolators to go with the new spacers, so I can start fresh and right this time. I should have time this weekend to get all of that swapped out.
 
Despite my steering woes, I decided to strip Spider down and dust off the tube doors. It’s supposed to be in the 70’s and 80’s over the next week. It’s always a great feeling, on or off road!

IMG_7247.jpg
 
Today was a TJ and JKU work day. The TJ needed a rear main seal and my friend had an F you moment with one of the exhaust bolts. I teased him pretty bad for that! So I started the day with a little welding.

Before

IMG_7253.jpg

After

IMG_7248.jpg

While we were at it, we dialed in his toe after he had installed a new tie rod and drag link. I have the toe alignment tool from Low Range Off Road and it makes the job so much easier in my opinion. Here they are on my Jeep a couple weeks ago.

IMG_7164.jpg

Next we addressed the sloppy TRE on the pitman arm side of my OE drag link on Spider. A new complete drag link is on its way from Ruffstuff with GM 1 ton TRE’s. I plan on buying a spare right and left TRE for the trail. I’ll be able to use them on either my tie rod or drag link this way, should I need to. I still have the reamer, so that’s a bonus.

I had ordered an AC Delco DL end for $20 and decided to put that on today. As we were finishing that I got the email saying my new, complete drag link shipped. Oh well! I’ll have a spare for someone locally still running the OE. It definitely drives better but we found some movement on the DL at the knuckle and the pass side unit bearing has a slight “clunk”. Unit bearings are on order.

IMG_7252.jpg

The last thing I did was to pull the front springs and remove the collapsed .75 Teraflex spacers. Sure enough, I screwed up and put the coil on the spacer and not the isolators, on both sides.

The Teraflex spacer is at the top and Synergy on the bottom. This time I installed them in the correct order.

IMG_7250.jpg

My springs still look a little bowed, but not nearly as much. I’m hoping that will straighten out quickly? If not, maybe time for a 3” down the line. Time will tell.
 
I did get the Ruffstuff drag link installed last week with one minor issue. I also need to correct a statement in my last post. This drag link has a standard LH GM 1 Ton TRE and what they call a “high angle” TRE on the other end. So my plan to carry one left and one right spare isn’t accurate.

I still need to pull it back off to paint it and I need to address the fact I over reamed the pitman arm. I guess the metal in the pitman is softer than the knuckle? I went deep enough that the cotter pin does not engage the castle nut. So I guess I’ll use a taper to square that away. I did loctite it for now and haven’t noticed it loosening up.

IMG_7331.jpg

So the steering feels great now! But!!! My wife and I went to Tucson for a few days last week. While in stop and go traffic I noticed a light clunk or pinging noise coming from underneath at the rear. I spend about 90-95% of my drive time on the highway and did not notice this before the stop and go traffic.

After talking to Bubba (Exodus Jeeps) and Doug (WJCO) and checking things over, it seems my crush sleeve is not or was not crushed enough on the rear diff during the gear swap. I tried contacting the guys that did the work without any luck. (Moved away) I was kinda pissed but also knew what I was getting into as far as “warranty” work. I called the one shop local to me that does gears (besides the stealership), sent them a video and they quoted me SIX HOURS to do the repair. [emoji44] So with help from the guys above, I’m tackling this on Friday. You guys rock!!!

Here’s a crappy video of the play I have...

https://youtu.be/iAjH6InnvPE

The only tool I’m really lacking is something to hold the pinion flange. I dug through my scrap metal and started working on this today...

IMG_7328.jpg

I think my beads continue to improve, but I still have more to gain...

IMG_7329.jpg

It’s being made from 1/4” plate that I’ll cut a center hole out of and drill holes to bolt to the flange. The bar is left over from my never ending rock slider project, .125” DOM that’s 36” long. I’m hoping to have a helper but if I don’t, I’ll brace this tool on a control arm. My 7 year old son asked me why I was making a stop sign. [emoji23]

I’m damned nervous that the ring and pinion were damaged, for no other reason than it simply being my luck. When I changed the fluid at 500 miles it was very clean and very little shavings on the magnet. I cannot hear any unusual sounds other than the ping in city traffic, so I am a little hopeful I guess. I’ll see on Friday and let everyone know how it goes.
 
USMC Wrangler said:
I did get the Ruffstuff drag link installed last week with one minor issue. I also need to correct a statement in my last post. This drag link has a standard LH GM 1 Ton TRE and what they call a “high angle” TRE on the other end. So my plan to carry one left and one right spare isn’t accurate.

I still need to pull it back off to paint it and I need to address the fact I over reamed the pitman arm. I guess the metal in the pitman is softer than the knuckle? I went deep enough that the cotter pin does not engage the castle nut. So I guess I’ll use a taper to square that away. I did loctite it for now and haven’t noticed it loosening up.

View attachment 324416

So the steering feels great now! But!!! My wife and I went to Tucson for a few days last week. While in stop and go traffic I noticed a light clunk or pinging noise coming from underneath at the rear. I spend about 90-95% of my drive time on the highway and did not notice this before the stop and go traffic.

After talking to Bubba (Exodus Jeeps) and Doug (WJCO) and checking things over, it seems my crush sleeve is not or was not crushed enough on the rear diff during the gear swap. I tried contacting the guys that did the work without any luck. (Moved away) I was kinda pissed but also knew what I was getting into as far as “warranty” work. I called the one shop local to me that does gears (besides the stealership), sent them a video and they quoted me SIX HOURS to do the repair. [emoji44] So with help from the guys above, I’m tackling this on Friday. You guys rock!!!

Here’s a crappy video of the play I have...

https://youtu.be/iAjH6InnvPE

The only tool I’m really lacking is something to hold the pinion flange. I dug through my scrap metal and started working on this today...

View attachment 324417

I think my beads continue to improve, but I still have more to gain...

View attachment 324418

It’s being made from 1/4” plate that I’ll cut a center hole out of and drill holes to bolt to the flange. The bar is left over from my never ending rock slider project, .125” DOM that’s 36” long. I’m hoping to have a helper but if I don’t, I’ll brace this tool on a control arm. My 7 year old son asked me why I was making a stop sign. [emoji23]

I’m damned nervous that the ring and pinion were damaged, for no other reason than it simply being my luck. When I changed the fluid at 500 miles it was very clean and very little shavings on the magnet. I cannot hear any unusual sounds other than the ping in city traffic, so I am a little hopeful I guess. I’ll see on Friday and let everyone know how it goes.
Click to expand...

I’ve seen it happen where the crush sleeve wasn’t crushed all the way and everything was fine. He got lucky and caught it in time, pretty much like you did.


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Exodus Jeeps said:
I’ve seen it happen where the crush sleeve wasn’t crushed all the way and everything was fine. He got lucky and caught it in time, pretty much like you did.


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Click to expand...

That’s a relief to hear! Part of my anxiety is I have a trail planned for 4/12 and my Jeep fund is pretty tapped out from the past few months. Anyway, thanks again for everything to include my random calls to the shop!
 
USMC Wrangler said:
I did get the Ruffstuff drag link installed last week with one minor issue. I also need to correct a statement in my last post. This drag link has a standard LH GM 1 Ton TRE and what they call a “high angle” TRE on the other end. So my plan to carry one left and one right spare isn’t accurate.

I still need to pull it back off to paint it and I need to address the fact I over reamed the pitman arm. I guess the metal in the pitman is softer than the knuckle? I went deep enough that the cotter pin does not engage the castle nut. So I guess I’ll use a taper to square that away. I did loctite it for now and haven’t noticed it loosening up.

View attachment 324416

So the steering feels great now! But!!! My wife and I went to Tucson for a few days last week. While in stop and go traffic I noticed a light clunk or pinging noise coming from underneath at the rear. I spend about 90-95% of my drive time on the highway and did not notice this before the stop and go traffic.

After talking to Bubba (Exodus Jeeps) and Doug (WJCO) and checking things over, it seems my crush sleeve is not or was not crushed enough on the rear diff during the gear swap. I tried contacting the guys that did the work without any luck. (Moved away) I was kinda pissed but also knew what I was getting into as far as “warranty” work. I called the one shop local to me that does gears (besides the stealership), sent them a video and they quoted me SIX HOURS to do the repair. [emoji44] So with help from the guys above, I’m tackling this on Friday. You guys rock!!!

Here’s a crappy video of the play I have...

https://youtu.be/iAjH6InnvPE

The only tool I’m really lacking is something to hold the pinion flange. I dug through my scrap metal and started working on this today...

View attachment 324417

I think my beads continue to improve, but I still have more to gain...

View attachment 324418

It’s being made from 1/4” plate that I’ll cut a center hole out of and drill holes to bolt to the flange. The bar is left over from my never ending rock slider project, .125” DOM that’s 36” long. I’m hoping to have a helper but if I don’t, I’ll brace this tool on a control arm. My 7 year old son asked me why I was making a stop sign. [emoji23]

I’m damned nervous that the ring and pinion were damaged, for no other reason than it simply being my luck. When I changed the fluid at 500 miles it was very clean and very little shavings on the magnet. I cannot hear any unusual sounds other than the ping in city traffic, so I am a little hopeful I guess. I’ll see on Friday and let everyone know how it goes.
Click to expand...

Are you using 6010 rod?
Didn’t feel like looking through your whole thread lol


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Just watched the video. Sure as shit, that's a bearing issue. Either improper crush, defective bearing, or races weren't pounded all the way in. Are you just going to try to tighten it or are you going to pull the guts and properly recheck the preload?
 
WJCO said:
Just watched the video. Sure as shit, that's a bearing issue. Either improper crush, defective bearing, or races weren't pounded all the way in. Are you just going to try to tighten it or are you going to pull the guts and properly recheck the preload?
Click to expand...

I’m going to break it all down clean everything, check preload, reassemble, check backlash and pattern. That’s the plan so far without seeing inside.
 
USMC Wrangler said:
I’m going to break it all down clean everything, check preload, reassemble, check backlash and pattern. That’s the plan so far without seeing inside.
Click to expand...

You were there when he did everything right? Also, do you have a dial inch pound torque wrench? And new crush sleeve and nut?
 
WJCO said:
You were there when he did everything right? Also, do you have a dial inch pound torque wrench? And new crush sleeve and nut?
Click to expand...

I was there, yes. The rear axle was last. As he was working on it I was reassembling the front axle, cleaning up and playing gopher.

I have a beam style inch pound torque wrench and I know that’s not the better option. I did pick up another new pinion nut but still have the spare crush sleeve that wasn’t used on install day.
 
JKbrick said:
Why doesn’t anyone use crush sleeve eliminators? I don’t know but I’m curious


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Click to expand...

USMC Wrangler said:
I know I’m not sure. I asked about them before the swap and standard crush sleeves were recommended. Maybe not “proven” or enough time to make a decision either way?
Click to expand...

I think you asked me about this ahead of time as well. There is more time involved in setting it up because of the proper shim addition, but the benefit is that once it's set correctly, you can remove and reinstall the pinion nut anytime without disturbing the bearing preload. But iirc, it sounded like your guy was more familiar with the crush sleeve method which is just fine if done correctly.
 
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