I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

Here are some update pictures of the pre-filter material. This is simply from driving back and forth to work and general street driving. This is five days worth of driving and it has been a bit windy a couple of those days.

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When I get it out on a dusty road/trail I’ll post any updates. Again, for $10 I’m pretty happy with the results so far.

PS - The dealership called today and said the dash parts still haven’t arrived. It’s been over a month so they found a dealer in Cali that has them in stock and ordered those. Hopefully by this time next week that will be remedied.
 
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My oldest daughter drove Spider yesterday and came home complaining about “loose steering”. It blew my mind because since the ProSteer install last week I thought it felt great.

So I crawled underneath and looked for my paint pen marks on all the steering and suspension bolts. They were all mostly gone! [emoji44] I guess that cheap Walmart paint pen I used wasn’t so weather resistant. Not to mention I haven’t been very good at checking that stuff lately. My fault...

So I checked everything. The front track bar, all four front control arms and both front shocks were nearly an entire turn loose. The front bolts on all four rear control arm were about the same but everything else checked out in the rear. I used my fancy new paint pen from Napa to mark everything and intend on keeping a better eye on that stuff from now on. It drives smooth and mostly straight now. I didn’t get a chance to check my tow in, but...

The bad news...my tie rod is definitely, although not terribly, bent for the third time. I pressed it flat twice already, so I guess it’s time for a new one soon.

Better news...I get to tinker with my buddy’s TJ tomorrow. It’s the one pictured a few posts up.
 
I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

Updates;

Finally! Gear swap scheduled for March 3rd! Can’t wait!!!

Also...

I was scheduled to go to my body shop of choice yesterday for the dealer dash repairs. I showed up on time and the shop said the dealer sent the part over but is refusing to pay labor. Body shop quoted just over $300 in labor so I opted to take the dash and go home. The plan is to do it myself if the dealership GM doesn’t get his shit together. They only sent over the drivers side upper dash even though the pass side was ordered too. [emoji849]
 
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I just realized I never got any better shots post rock skin install.

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Now if the wind and cold temps would break, I could make some progress on the sliders...
 
I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

Today was busy! My daughter recently bought a 2000 Camry XLE 3.0 auto as her first car. (Yes, I made her buy it!) It has 116,000 original miles on it and she got it for $1000. Engine and trans are solid but most other components seem to be original. So I dove into the front end. I was having trouble getting the passenger side axle assembly out, even with a slide hammer. So, I dropped the hook off of my winch line and bolted the line to the axle. A couple of bumps and it was out!

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I also finished painting my new front diff cover in preparation for the gear swap in a couple weeks. My rear PS is all black powder coat but I got this one raw to try to be one of the cool guys.

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I picked up a set of Rancho 9000’s from rmilobrown for a good deal. Thanks Rob!. I’ve been wondering about my 3 year old Rancho 5000’s with just over 44,000 miles on them. They weren’t leaking but I’m not sure how long they usually last. Anyway, as I removed them they had no rebound left in them. The fronts are installed and I’ll be ordering a set of rears in the near future.

5000’s

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9000’s

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Now it’s time for some celebratory beverages and the hot tub!

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Overall "build thread"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build

DIY trail/tube door build http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24449-My-DIY-Doors
 
rmilobrown said:
Ha! Looks good! I found the third setting (3) on the fronts good for both street and trail.
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Good to know, thanks! I plan on playing with it.

My imagination might be messing with me but it looks like I gained some height back. A friend of mine recently said it looked like my front end was sagging. I honestly didn’t notice it until after the install. I should’ve measured. Thanks again! I wanted to go this route 3 years ago but couldn’t swing it at the time.
 
Since I put the 9000’s on the front and the 5000’s had zero rebound, I added 9000’s to the rear today. Same thing with the rear 5000’s I took off...no rebound aka I could move the shock easily by hand. The 5000’s were good while they lasted but I really like the ride of the 9000’s dialed all the way down.

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Alright. Since installing the ProSteers and new shocks as well as checking the torque on everything, I decided to recheck my toe and caster. My wife, daughter and I have noticed some sawing in the steering wheel. It’s actually worse now than before. I can only guess the worn ball joints allowed some slop and I attributed the feeling to radial pull. Caster is tough at the bj’s with ProSteers so I went with the hole on the front axle.

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I’m sitting at 90°, so within the 88°-92° Eddie references in the DIY alignment thread.

My toe? Well, I guess I’ve bashed the factory tie rod plenty on trails and most recently on a rather large javelina. It’s at 5/8”!

I called Bubba at Exodus Jeeps and my new TR is due to ship Monday. I’m hoping it arrives by Thursday so I can install next weekend. I have a couple guys local to me double checking if they have the 7°, 1.5” per foot reamer needed to fully seat the GM TRE’s. If neither have one, I’ll pick one up online.

Thanks again Bubba!
 
USMC Wrangler said:
Alright. Since installing the ProSteers and new shocks as well as checking the torque on everything, I decided to recheck my toe and caster. My wife, daughter and I have noticed some sawing in the steering wheel. It’s actually worse now than before. I can only guess the worn ball joints allowed some slop and I attributed the feeling to radial pull. Caster is tough at the bj’s with ProSteers so I went with the hole on the front axle.

View attachment 321612

I’m sitting at 90°, so within the 88°-92° Eddie references in the DIY alignment thread.

My toe? Well, I guess I’ve bashed the factory tie rod plenty on trails and most recently on a rather large javelina. It’s at 5/8”!

I called Bubba at Exodus Jeeps and my new TR is due to ship Monday. I’m hoping it arrives by Thursday so I can install next weekend. I have a couple guys local to me double checking if they have the 7°, 1.5” per foot reamer needed to fully seat the GM TRE’s. If neither have one, I’ll pick one up online.

Thanks again Bubba!
Click to expand...

Yep. It’s all boxed up today and should ship out Monday!


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USMC Wrangler said:
Alright. Since installing the ProSteers and new shocks as well as checking the torque on everything, I decided to recheck my toe and caster. My wife, daughter and I have noticed some sawing in the steering wheel. It’s actually worse now than before. I can only guess the worn ball joints allowed some slop and I attributed the feeling to radial pull. Caster is tough at the bj’s with ProSteers so I went with the hole on the front axle.

View attachment 321612

I’m sitting at 90°, so within the 88°-92° Eddie references in the DIY alignment thread.

My toe? Well, I guess I’ve bashed the factory tie rod plenty on trails and most recently on a rather large javelina. It’s at 5/8”!

I called Bubba at Exodus Jeeps and my new TR is due to ship Monday. I’m hoping it arrives by Thursday so I can install next weekend. I have a couple guys local to me double checking if they have the 7°, 1.5” per foot reamer needed to fully seat the GM TRE’s. If neither have one, I’ll pick one up online.

Thanks again Bubba!
Click to expand...

Make sure you are on a nice level surface or account for the slope of your driveway or whatever when taking that reading


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
FYI, that reading should be 88 OR 92, it's not a range between the two numbers. If you're viewing the gauge from the driver's side, it should be 88. If you're viewing the gauge from passenger side, it should be at 92. If your ground truly was a flat 0, then you need to bump your caster angle up 2 degrees my making your lower arms longer or your upper arms shorter.
 
I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

WJCO said:
FYI, that reading should be 88 OR 92, it's not a range between the two numbers. If you're viewing the gauge from the driver's side, it should be 88. If you're viewing the gauge from passenger side, it should be at 92. If your ground truly was a flat 0, then you need to bump your caster angle up 2 degrees my making your lower arms longer or your upper arms shorter.
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Good to know! I misunderstood. I’ll work on that when the tie rod arrives. I was viewing from the driver’s side. Driveway reads zero at both front tires pulled up right to the garage door, but the rear is 3° different. The driveway has a break about mid-way for drainage. Should I factor a change in for the rear being slightly lower or is the zero reading at the front wheels adequate?
 
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USMC Wrangler said:
Good to know! I misunderstood. I’ll work on that when the tie rod arrives. I was viewing from the driver’s side. Driveway reads zero at both front tires pulled up right to the garage door, but the rear is 3° different. The driveway has a break about mid-way for drainage. Should I factor a change in for the rear being slightly lower or is the zero reading at the front wheels adequate?
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You need the whole Jeep at the same angle. If you can't get both front and rear on the flat, get them both on the angle then compensate for it in your measurements.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
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