I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

USMC Wrangler said:
Well, Spider now has two different hats to wear!

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The only problem we ran into was the RH4x4 3rd row bar was covering the top hole for the rear bolt on bracket. I didn't even realize that's what those holes were for. (I'm still such a newbie! [emoji1]) We tried loosening the bar and sliding it but that didn't work. I met the seller in a shopping center parking lot, so with limited tools and time I just pulled the bar. It was about 3/4" too low. I'll just reinstall the bar in the next couple days in the comfort of my own driveway.

I was expecting the road noise to be worse than what it is with the soft top. I even hit I-10 on the way home with 40mph gusts. No big deal!

The windows have a few scuffs on them. What does everyone use on these factory soft top Windows to keep them clear???
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303 sells a clear vinyl protectant/cleaner that works decently. I bought it from a boat store and tried it once and it worked okay. It's made for those clear vinyl boat windshields.

I'm pretty much a stickler for my soft top Windows. I don't want scratches, dust, anything on them. LoL.
 
The 3rd row cage is back on. I'll have to remove the top hinge bar of the soft top to completely fold back the top. It doesn't bother me and glad I figured it out at home and not out on a road trip or trail.
 
I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

Since I'm off today and the only thing on the schedule is a little league game tonight, I had planned on pulling my front bumper and getting some measurements. The weather is not cooperating though...

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I'm no engineer [emoji51] and can't seem to find CAD software my pea brain understands or one I'm willing to spend money on. So I went old schoolish with graph paper, a pencil and a ruler.

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This is the general shape I'm after.

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Not just a rectangle bolted on but also not super fancy. My crash bar is still intact and I intend to at least bring the lower part of the bumper down in front of it.

I realize things in my high tech drawing above, like the d-ring mounts and fog light holes, aren't in the exact position that they will be. I just felt the need to make progress on this today. I need to pick up a 1/4" x 1" x 48" piece of steel for my little angle I plan to make at the top/front. Otherwise I have all of the other materials. I will probably rattle can it with black VHT when it's done for easy touch up later on. I think that will match the EVO rear facia finish pretty close.
 
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Looks like a solid plan! Your doors turned out so nice that I'm positive that this bumper will too! Inspired!
 
USMC Wrangler said:
The 3rd row cage is back on. I'll have to remove the top hinge bar of the soft top to completely fold back the top. It doesn't bother me and glad I figured it out at home and not out on a road trip or trail.
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I had a minor set back on getting the 3rd row cage. Babies cost money ha. But, I'm a little confused about the soft top. You'll have to elaborate a little more or show me a pic of what your talking about where it won't go over so I can know what to expect
 
No doubt on the baby cost!

So the soft top bar with the pointers has to have the screws pulled to fold down all the way. My top did fold down completely once I removed the screws from both of these top bars.

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I had to have the top in the up position (ask me how I know!) and then feed the 3rd row cage in between the two hinge bars to reinstall it. When you're ready and if you have questions, let me know.

I have no idea if the top I just got is spring assist,(someone school me on how to tell please???), but this is from the instructions...

"Does this work with the factory soft top?
Yes, but you may have to loosen soft top hardware prior to folding down so it may clear 3rd Row Sports Cage. Please note, we have discovered a fitment issue with "spring assist" soft tops. The RH-1032 is not compatible with the spring assist mechanism."

Again, mine did fold down all the way. I suspect when I get the JK seat installed as my 3rd row the top will be obstructed from folding completely. Just a guess.

We will likely run the sunrider option a lot with the three rear windows removed when all 6 of us are in the Jeep. It's a worthy sacrifice to have the whole family out for the day IMO.
 
I was thinking about that top on I laying all the way down. I'm probably gonna set the seat In there and see what it looks like with the top down. Cause I have 3 little kids and 1 big. So I have plenty that can fit back there. The only thing I have going forward for me right now is that I've gotten the seat brackets
 
Pretty much same boat here. Kiddos are 15, 10, 8 & 4. I'm still waiting on the seatbelts from the 2 dr before I move forward with swapping seats.
 
If I save some money this month I'll get the cage, harness bar and harness that we was talking about. Mine are 12,9,7, and 14 months. Plus my kids are little. The oldest is nothing but a rail. We can't get him to eat good for nothing.
 
As I've discovered, the zippers on the soft top windows can be a bear. I saw some paracord zipper pulls on eBay and thought that was a great idea. I made myself a set and a few extra sets for some friends at work...

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The green ones are actually 5 strand 650 cord and I've always liked the 7 strand 550 better. I think most can see that the tan ones came out nicer in 550 cord even in the picture. Oh well, they should both function just fine.
 
USMC Wrangler said:
As I've discovered, the zippers on the soft top windows can be a bear. I saw some paracord zipper pulls on eBay and thought that was a great idea. I made myself a set and a few extra sets for some friends at work...

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The green ones are actually 5 strand 650 cord and I've always liked the 7 strand 550 better. I think most can see that the tan ones came out nicer in 550 cord even in the picture. Oh well, they should both function just fine.
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I put paracord on mine to pull with, but not braided. Great idea.
 
I guess it's the "Super Stocker" build

Getting some time with my latest project today...

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EVO front d-ring mounts
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I'll have to open up the top outside hole on the frame to get that bolt in. The EVO mounts will be my template for drilling the holes in the front plate.
 
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After the first test fit, I didn't like how wide the front piece was. It's now 40 9/16" instead of 46 1/8". This will give me the angle I want...narrow at the front and wider at the rear.

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There's still a lot to do, but that's all for today.
 
Good start! I have been thinking about this since you first mentioned it so I will be following closely! I can design, cut and do the machine work. The problem for me is the welding. I only have access to a 30+ year old Miller stick or I can have a local shop TIG it together? I would rather do it myself so I guess its time to lay down some practice beads!
 
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