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TrailHunter said:
Eddie, quick question... I also have noticed a very slight bend in my drag link.... probably from pushing my stocker through some tougher areas... Both you & Bubba have recommended running the factory drag link... But If one does not plan on running a Ram Assist for a long while... would it be a good idea to upgrade the drag link? My fear though is the pressure that may put on the Sector Shaft.... especially when I bump up to 35’s.... (But I am very interested in the PSC box without the Ram Assist if only for the larger sector shaft)
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I know this is directed to Eddie and not me, but I would recommend the ram over the beefier box. The ram takes stress off the drag link and the sector shaft. The bigger box does neither. It just beefs up the otherwise vulnerable sector shaft. Why use a bandaid when you can get a cure, for close to the same cost?
 
fiend said:
I know this is directed to Eddie and not me, but I would recommend the ram over the beefier box. The ram takes stress off the drag link and the sector shaft. The bigger box does neither. It just beefs up the otherwise vulnerable sector shaft. Why use a bandaid when you can get a cure, for close to the same cost?
Click to expand...

After reading a few threads on the PSC, I 100% agree with you.... I’m just trying to keep this build cost down and set myself up to run strong with 35’s for a while (years) .... Knowing also I may be eventually going to 37’s... Things are so much easier when you can just throw a bunch of money at something... lol
 
TrailHunter said:
Eddie, quick question... I also have noticed a very slight bend in my drag link.... probably from pushing my stocker through some tougher areas... Both you & Bubba have recommended running the factory drag link... But If one does not plan on running a Ram Assist for a long while... would it be a good idea to upgrade the drag link? My fear though is the pressure that may put on the Sector Shaft.... especially when I bump up to 35’s.... (But I am very interested in the PSC box without the Ram Assist if only for the larger sector shaft)
Click to expand...

fiend said:
I know this is directed to Eddie and not me, but I would recommend the ram over the beefier box. The ram takes stress off the drag link and the sector shaft. The bigger box does neither. It just beefs up the otherwise vulnerable sector shaft. Why use a bandaid when you can get a cure, for close to the same cost?
Click to expand...

I'd have to agree with what fiend said. I still run a factory steering box with a ram assist and for me, it's the smarter way to go.
 
drrags said:
Now that you've said that, I remember my spotter yelling "Turn passenger! Turn that wheel as hard as you can! Put some muscle into it!" I couldn't turn right very far afterwards. Lot's of 3-point right hand turns to get off the trail after that. Hydro-assist, eh$ Dangit.
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LOL!! Happens ever single time. :crazyeyes:

It's only money :crazyeyes:
 
TrailHunter said:
After reading a few threads on the PSC, I 100% agree with you.... I’m just trying to keep this build cost down and set myself up to run strong with 35’s for a while (years) .... Knowing also I may be eventually going to 37’s... Things are so much easier when you can just throw a bunch of money at something... lol
Click to expand...

There are sector shaft braces. Synergy makes one. Another company makes them too, but I forgot which company. Maybe JCR?
 
fiend said:
There are sector shaft braces. Synergy makes one. Another company makes them too, but I forgot which company. Maybe JCR?
Click to expand...

Unlike the TJ, YJ and the CJ before where the steering box mounts and/or the frames are weak and a brace was helpful to have (I ran a brace on both my TJ and CJ), the JK frame is quite strong and a brace really isn't needed. Certainly, they won't do much to prevent the kind of rotational breaks that you see on most JK sector shafts. At least, I haven't seen them to do much.
 
fiend said:
I know this is directed to Eddie and not me, but I would recommend the ram over the beefier box. The ram takes stress off the drag link and the sector shaft. The bigger box does neither. It just beefs up the otherwise vulnerable sector shaft. Why use a bandaid when you can get a cure, for close to the same cost?
Click to expand...

I agree with this 100%. To me, the larger box is just applying more force against everything “downstream” of it and will likely bend/break any weak-point down the line. An assist takes a lot of pressure off the system. Not all, but a lot. You can still find yourself occasionally making a couple attempts at steering around something.

I have personally seen a big bore bend an aftermarket tie rod exactly where his hydro assist clamp was mounted. So the argument that running both prevents failure doesn’t stand either.

I have mounted the Synergy brace on steering boxes before and for the little money they cost, to me it’s worth putting on there. Like Eddie said though it will not stop a rotational break.


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Tie rod

I should say, though, that a ram can put extra stress on the tie rod and lead to failure, particularly if the ram is substantially nonparallel to the tie rod. At Moab earlier this year, my ram pushed my OE tie rod out quite a bit. I was able to make it drivable back to town, where I got an OE style replacement at the local NAPA to finish my trip. When I got home, I got a much stronger Currie. The point is, if you go with a ram or a big box (or both), you’re probably going to want to beef up other components as well.
 
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Tie rod

wayoflife said:
I'd have to agree with what fiend said. I still run a factory steering box with a ram assist and for me, it's the smarter way to go.
Click to expand...

Agreed as well... I’ll work on carrying spares until I get the Ram Assist... thanks guys..

Eddie, did you tap into your stock gear box? Or is there a stock box kit I’m not seeing?
 
I've never bent a tie rod or drag link...I must be doing it wrong...

However I have broke my track bar mount weld on my JK6...im not sure when, but I ran Bronco Canyon with Eddie last month with a broken mount. It's a testament as to how good the DTD/three link EVO suspension is...the steering felt like there was a dead spot during a full lock to lock turn, but it still turned pretty well...drove all the way back to WA , then had it rewelded with beefier gussets
 
fiend said:
I should say, though, that a ram can put extra stress on the tie rod and lead to failure, particularly if the ram is substantially nonparallel to the tie rod. At Moab earlier this year, my ram pushed my OE tie rod out quite a bit. I was able to make it drivable back to town, where I got an OE style replacement at the local NAPA to finish my trip. When I got home, I got a much stronger Currie. The point is, if you go with a ram or a big box (or both), you’re probably going to want to beef up other components as well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, ideally, you really want a ram mounted on the knuckle and then to a mount on the axle. You can definitely run one on the tie-rod but you really do need it to be a beefier one like the Currie you now have.

TrailHunter said:
Agreed as well... I’ll work on carrying spares until I get the Ram Assist... thanks guys..

Eddie, did you tap into your stock gear box? Or is there a stock box kit I’m not seeing?
Click to expand...

Moby is a 2007 and it came with a Delphi box. Back in the day, I was able to just send them mine and they sent me a ported one in return. I think you can still do that with the new China boxes but they aren't as strong. Or, at least from what I have seen.

Brute said:
I've never bent a tie rod or drag link...I must be doing it wrong...

However I have broke my track bar mount weld on my JK6...im not sure when, but I ran Bronco Canyon with Eddie last month with a broken mount. It's a testament as to how good the DTD/three link EVO suspension is...the steering felt like there was a dead spot during a full lock to lock turn, but it still turned pretty well...drove all the way back to WA , then had it rewelded with beefier gussets
Click to expand...

What? Really?? Man, I had no idea. :crazyeyes:
 
wayoflife said:
Yeah, ideally, you really want a ram mounted on the knuckle and then to a mount on the axle. You can definitely run one on the tie-rod but you really do need it to be a beefier one like the Currie you now have.



Moby is a 2007 and it came with a Delphi box. Back in the day, I was able to just send them mine and they sent me a ported one in return. I think you can still do that with the new China boxes but they aren't as strong. Or, at least from what I have seen.



What? Really?? Man, I had no idea. :crazyeyes:
Click to expand...

I didn't know either...I kept checking all the bolts & nuts to see if something was loose...not until I got home and had it on a lift , then turned the wheel was it clearly apparent...
 
TrailHunter said:
Eddie, did you tap into your stock gear box? Or is there a stock box kit I’m not seeing?
Click to expand...

Not directed at me but figured I'd chime in. Redneck Ram does box tapping. I did their core charge kit. It's $1000 up front, and they ship you a tapped box, hydro lines, ram, ram tabs, hardware etc. Once you install it, you ship your box back and they refund you $400. Great for those that don't want to buck up the 3k for a full PSC system.

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RPM Fab is also great! I have hit that tie rod multiple times.

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drrags said:
Now that you've said that, I remember my spotter yelling "Turn passenger! Turn that wheel as hard as you can! Put some muscle into it!" I couldn't turn right very far afterwards. Lot's of 3-point right hand turns to get off the trail after that. Hydro-assist, eh$ Dangit.
Click to expand...

One thing to learn from this is that the spotter may see the line you need to get on, but they are not shelling out the $$ for broken stuff.

When I need to turn, I will back off a bit, unlock the front locker, and free up the steering. I never force the wheel. If it won't turn relatively easy, it may be time to back up a bit and get out of a bind, then turn and go again.

You do know you can lock and unlock the front locker without unlocking the rear, right?

With time and experience, you will learn to pick a better line, and if you miss the line, don't be afraid to back up and reset before trying to just force it through.

That said, I have tore up my share of stuff, and am probably not finished doing so, but good judgement will reduce the amount and cost of damage.
 
I got my RPMFab aluminum tie rod and drag link. It's like jewelry but different. Hopefully no more bending, no matter what stupid predicament I put myself in.
2018092319571698-IMG_1516-XL.jpg
 
jdofmemi said:
One thing to learn from this is that the spotter may see the line you need to get on, but they are not shelling out the $$ for broken stuff.

When I need to turn, I will back off a bit, unlock the front locker, and free up the steering. I never force the wheel. If it won't turn relatively easy, it may be time to back up a bit and get out of a bind, then turn and go again.

You do know you can lock and unlock the front locker without unlocking the rear, right?

With time and experience, you will learn to pick a better line, and if you miss the line, don't be afraid to back up and reset before trying to just force it through.

That said, I have tore up my share of stuff, and am probably not finished doing so, but good judgement will reduce the amount and cost of damage.
Click to expand...
I do the same. I don't like yarding on my steering wheel when the wheels are in a bind.

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