How to Install U-Joints w/ Full Circle Clips onto a Chromoly Front Axle Shaft + VIDEO

[wayoflife]

I guess I'm a little confused. The initial Wayalife post would indicate that the big problem with the 44 axle shafts was the C-clip coming loose from the U-joint and that the axle shafts themselves were generally not the problem. The write-up then goes on to show how to install a full circle U-joint in an Alloy USA chromalloy axle. I had expected that the write-up would show how to install a full circle clip U-joint in the stock axle shaft as a preventive measure to make sure that the U-joint on the stock axle doesn't fall apart when the C-clip comes out. Is there no full circle clip U-joint for the stock shafts or, perhaps, the Alloy USA write-up was given as an example for how to do it on any U-joint axle?

All of that said, I'm impressed with the detail of the write-up.

Thanks

Edit - Didn't see the post about tack welding the caps until after I posted

Sorry for the confusion. To clarify, a lot of people make the assumption that axle shafts that have u-joints "in general" are weak based on their experiences with "factory" shafts. This is why a lot of them assume they need something like an expensive RCV shaft. Of course, their assumptions are wrong and I am simply pointing out that a more affordable axle shaft with u-joints that have full circle clips will get the job and for a lot less.

Great write up, especially for people who've never worked on solid axles front ends before like my self although most of the processes other than setting ring and pinion/backlash and shimming seem pretty straight forward it never hurts!

Also will they be making these for the D30's?

Honestly, I don't know for sure. We just picked up what we needed for our purposes. I do know they make axle shafts for the Dana 30 and they are available with u-joints that have full circle clips but I don't think the X-Joints are made for it or, at least not as of yet.

Great write up. I appreciate the fact you take the time to put this stuff out. Very clear instructions. Thank you.

Well, we just hope that videos like these can be of help to others.

 

[wayoflife]

Very helpful write-up, thanks!

For a cheap alternative, besides tack welding, is it possible to only replace the stock u-joints on the stock axle shaft? Would this Spicer 5-760x work?

Unfortunately, no. The issues is not the u-joint but rather, the factory axle shafts as they have yokes with material that would prevent the installation of full circle clips. You can grid this material out to make it work but I personally don't think it's worth the effort.

Great tutorial. Thanks for posting up. [emoji106]

Thanks for the write up and video. I will use this when the time comes. :beer:

Great Job - Very Helpful:thumb:

Glad to know you found the video helpful.

 

[wayoflife]

You make that seem so easy!! Thank for the quick video on this Eddie!!

LOL!! Fortunately or unfortunately, I've had to do this a few times :crazyeyes:

Nice video! Thanks!

Now where do I fit a shop press in the jeep so I can do this on the trail?

It's called a MAC's Trail-D-Vice. They ain't cheap but they're worth every penny :yup:

 

[WJCO]

Sorry for the confusion. To clarify, a lot of people make the assumption that axle shafts that have u-joints "in general" are weak based on their experiences with "factory" shafts. This is why a lot of them assume they need something like an expensive RCV shaft. Of course, their assumptions are wrong and I am simply pointing out that a more affordable axle shaft with u-joints that have full circle clips will get the job and for a lot less.

Eddie, tell me your honest opinion on these axles: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10369.html. I've been considering getting them, but there's a catch. These are the ONLY axle upgrades I can find for my WJ. The RCV ones will not work with my LSD carrier. These axles look lovely enough on paper, but after I contacted the company, they have not sold many and could not give me enough feedback about pros/cons. Because they machine the casting to allow for better turning, they WILL NOT warranty them at all. My gut feeling is to stay away from them because I don't want an 800 dollar paperweight, but I would like to upgrade my axles. Does this machining worry you at all by looking at it? I want to run 35s soon.

 

[MR.Ty]

Awesome write up and great video! Now I have an idea what to do when I finally upgrade my front shafts. :yup:

 

[wayoflife]

Eddie, tell me your honest opinion on these axles: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10369.html. I've been considering getting them, but there's a catch. These are the ONLY axle upgrades I can find for my WJ. The RCV ones will not work with my LSD carrier. These axles look lovely enough on paper, but after I contacted the company, they have not sold many and could not give me enough feedback about pros/cons. Because they machine the casting to allow for better turning, they WILL NOT warranty them at all. My gut feeling is to stay away from them because I don't want an 800 dollar paperweight, but I would like to upgrade my axles. Does this machining worry you at all by looking at it? I want to run 35s soon.

They do look nice but, as a general rule, I tend not to upgrade things until or unless I need to. I had broken my factory driver side shaft very early on and replaced it with a used chromo shaft and my passenger side shaft has over 80,000 miles on it. I was planning on just replacing the u-joint but thought, while I was at it, why not just upgrade to something better and keep my old shafts as spares. In other words, unless you're in need of them, I'd hold off on getting them but, when the time comes, I'd probably get them being that they're really not that expensive for what they are and really, the only thing out there other than OE shafts.

 

[WJCO]

They do look nice but, as a general rule, I tend not to upgrade things until or unless I need to. I had broken my factory driver side shaft very early on and replaced it with a used chromo shaft and my passenger side shaft has over 80,000 miles on it. I was planning on just replacing the u-joint but thought, while I was at it, why not just upgrade to something better and keep my old shafts as spares. In other words, unless you're in need of them, I'd hold off on getting them but, when the time comes, I'd probably get them being that they're really not that expensive for what they are and really, the only thing out there other than OE shafts.

Cool. Thanks for the advice.

 

[highoctane]

Eddie, tell me your honest opinion on these axles: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10369.html. I've been considering getting them, but there's a catch. These are the ONLY axle upgrades I can find for my WJ. The RCV ones will not work with my LSD carrier. These axles look lovely enough on paper, but after I contacted the company, they have not sold many and could not give me enough feedback about pros/cons. Because they machine the casting to allow for better turning, they WILL NOT warranty them at all. My gut feeling is to stay away from them because I don't want an 800 dollar paperweight, but I would like to upgrade my axles. Does this machining worry you at all by looking at it? I want to run 35s soon.

I'd look for a set of stock JK Rubi axles. A friend of mine swapped them into his WJ.

 

[WJCO]

I'd look for a set of stock JK Rubi axles. A friend of mine swapped them into his WJ.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm guessing he has an open diff though. I can find tons of those as far as axle upgrades. Mine has quadradrive so both diffs have LSD. It's an entirely different carrier. I also have limited options as far as lockers if I ever wanted to go that way. If indeed your friend has quadradrive and that worked, I would love to hear about it for sure. Isn't the Rubi a D44 though? I have a D30 in front.

 

[OverlanderJK]

LOL!! Fortunately or unfortunately, I've had to do this a few times :crazyeyes:



It's called a MAC's Trail-D-Vice. They ain't cheap but they're worth every penny :yup:

Lol yeah Russ has one. I've used it before and still would rather someone else do it. Lol

 

[wayoflife]

Lol yeah Russ has one. I've used it before and still would rather someone else do it. Lol

:cheesy: bum :crazyeyes:

 

[jesse3638]

As a last resort could you facilitate this repair on the trail with a large C-clamp? I know it would not be as stable but was just thinking it may be a way to do it as an alternative.

 

[wayoflife]

As a last resort could you facilitate this repair on the trail with a large C-clamp? I know it would not be as stable but was just thinking it may be a way to do it as an alternative.

Unfortunately, no. And trust me, I have tried. The c-clamp will be too flimsy and you won't be able to get the pressing power you need the way a joint press (looks like a big c-clamp only bigger and beefier) will. As a last resort, you can try and pound in the bearing caps with a 3 lb. hammer but, depending on where you're at on the trail, you might be better off just pulling the shaft, plugging the axle tube and going without it.

 

[highoctane]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm guessing he has an open diff though. I can find tons of those as far as axle upgrades. Mine has quadradrive so both diffs have LSD. It's an entirely different carrier. I also have limited options as far as lockers if I ever wanted to go that way. If indeed your friend has quadradrive and that worked, I would love to hear about it for sure. Isn't the Rubi a D44 though? I have a D30 in front.

The guy I know swapped the entire axle assembly, housing and all. Removed all of the WJ drivetrain, and installed front and rear JK Rubi D44 axle assemblies. He cut off all of the brackets on the JK axles and welded on new control arm mounts to make the axles fit into his WJ. I think he even installed a TJ Rubi xfer case. Not 100% positive on the xfer case though.

His WJ is an '04 Overland with Quadradrive and a 4.7 V8.

 

[JK_Dave]

Excellent video and write up! Do you have a recommendation for removing a u joint? Assuming you're on the trail and one of the four caps busts, what's the best/easiest way to get the remaining caps out after removing the clips?

 

[WJCO]

The guy I know swapped the entire axle assembly, housing and all. Removed all of the WJ drivetrain, and installed front and rear JK Rubi D44 axle assemblies. He cut off all of the brackets on the JK axles and welded on new control arm mounts to make the axles fit into his WJ. I think he even installed a TJ Rubi xfer case. Not 100% positive on the xfer case though.

His WJ is an '04 Overland with Quadradrive and a 4.7 V8.

That makes more sense. I've seen a couple of WJ builds like that with the rubi front axle assy. ECGS sells one ready to go but it's $$$$$$$. I may do sometime like that in the future. I'm actually waiting on a reply from Dynatrac to see if they could build a PR44 for my rig. Although I COULD do the work myself, I'm so limited on time right now, I'd rather have someone build it and I'll pay the extra money.

 

[JKAnimal]

Thanks for the great video and write up. I haven't broken a u-joint yet but now I know how to change one when the time comes. I usually carry my harbor freight ball joint press with me on the trail just in case.

 

[bnatt78]

Thank you for the great information and showing how to install another great product for the Jeep JK!

 

[jesse3638]

Finally got new front shafts. Just watched this video so I install the u-joint correctly. I wanted to add that Revolution shafts came with solid Spicer 1350 u-joints (Part# 5-7166X). Spicer's instructions say to keep the caps matched to it's trunion location to ensure proper lubrication. Hopefully all goes well and I get these assembled so I can rebuild my front end this weekend.

 

[jesse3638]

Got them all assembled. Used a c-clamp, vise, and sockets. No access to a press. It worked pretty well. Now I'm all set to do ball joints and gussets this weekend.



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