How many of ya have done the axle tube sleve and axle gusset kits? I can imagine d

Sharkey said:
Why the change of heart? Back in March you blasted me for saying sleeves were a waste of money and that NR4x4 was misleading customers by telling them they were crazy for not installing sleeves.
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Oh man that's funny! I remember that whole thing. Guess some people can't remember what they say. :crazyeyes:
 
So would you consider a PR44 with the stock internals to be a poor choice for 35s?
 
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scrhino said:
So Eddie, I assume you did an arb pr44 in the front and a pr60(from moby) in the rear?
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Unfortunately, I needed the PR44 in a hurry being that we were taking Rubicat on the JKX and the only one I could get my hands on quickly was one that was made for Rubicon internals. Needless to say, that's the route I took this time around and so far, it's been holding up. The last time I did this was with Nemo and for it, we did install an ARB and 35 spline shafts. Our plan is to install Moby's old PR60 in the rear.

FireWire79 said:
So would you consider a PR44 with the stock internals to be a poor choice for 35s?
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Not at all. With 35's, it's probably a good setup and one that will save you quite a bit of money. I would only really push for the ARB and 35 spline shafts if you were going to be running 37's. But, even at that, it's what I'm running now.
 
wayoflife said:
Not at all. With 35's, it's probably a good setup and one that will save you quite a bit of money. I would only really push for the ARB and 35 spline shafts if you were going to be running 37's. But, even at that, it's what I'm running now.
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Dang you're fast. Thanks for the heads up. If/When I bend the front housing on the JKR, I know where to go, and how to cut down on costs.
 
All this talk about broken 44s makes me a little wary of running 35s on a 30. Guess I'll just have to go slow and ride on the fire roads with the FJ cruisers.
 
Although I think I remember someone saying the tubes for a factory 30 and 44 were the same. It was only the guts and the diff that made the rubi 44 a 44.
 
crowrb29 said:
All this talk about broken 44s makes me a little wary of running 35s on a 30. Guess I'll just have to go slow and ride on the fire roads with the FJ cruisers.
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Nah, you'll bend your axle just driving on pavement. If there is a point to all this, it's to just get out there and have some fun and not worry about it so much. A "bend" is not the same thing as a "break" and you can drive your Jeep a long time with a "bend". Just know that someday in the future, it may bend enough to warrant a replacement but, there are lots of things on your Jeep that will need to be replaced with time like, you're tires for instance. When you can afford it, just upgrade to a ProRock 44 and you won't have to think about it again :)

crowrb29 said:
Although I think I remember someone saying the tubes for a factory 30 and 44 were the same. It was only the guts and the diff that made the rubi 44 a 44.
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Factory 44's are only 44's because of the diff, ring & pinion and axle shafts. Everything else about them are Dana 30's.
 
I now realize the error of my thoughts . Even though I am old I can still live and learn.You were right. Do I owe you an apology ?
 
Are the rear factory 44 axles all the same except the locker in a rubicon? Are they as "cheap" as the front axles? As far as the housing tubes and strength
 
JKbrick said:
Are the rear factory 44 axles all the same except the locker in a rubicon? Are they as "cheap" as the front axles? As far as the housing tubes and strength
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The axle shafts in a rear rubi & non rubi aren't the same lengths and they don't have the same spline count.
 
JKbrick said:
Are the rear factory 44 axles all the same except the locker in a rubicon? Are they as "cheap" as the front axles? As far as the housing tubes and strength
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The rear factory Dana 44's are true 44's with bigger tubes. The difference between a Rubicon and non-Rubicon is that a Rubicon comes with 32 spline shafts (different lengths) and an e-locker. All other JK's come with 30 spline shafts that are equal length. I have found factory rear axles to get the job done well and don't even recommend replacing the shafts until you bend a flange. At that time, it's cheaper to just get chromoly replacements.

I should note that if there is a benefit to non-Rubicon rear 44's, it's the fact that the shafts are equal lengths and you can install 35 spline shafts with an ARB locker. This makes it quite stout and easier to carry just one spare.
 
dahreno said:
I now realize the error of my thoughts . Even though I am old I can still live and learn.You were right. Do I owe you an apology ?
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Ha! You and me both. No apology necessary. I was partially wrong in the way I stated the original post. My real point though was to express my disdain for NR trying to force products on people to get a sale when those products clearly don't solve the problem. In that regard, I stand by everything I said.
 
Awesome thanks everybody this helps tons. I like the differance in opinions and of course Eddie with his jeeps and their years of hard use. Lol. Think ill upgrade with the best balljoints and do the gussets while its apart.. beat it till it dont want anymore. Kinda bummed the e locker isnt the best but eeh life goes on. As for the Arb i can vouch for the strength i have frt. And rear. Lockers in my 06 megacab that we sled pull with , putting over 1300 hp and 2400 lbs of torque threw a 9.25 inch ring gear in the stock front aam axle still blows my mind.

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wayoflife said:
Umm, lots of folks. Gussets are worth it for sure but, sleeves aren't as necessary to do.
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So when a local shop "recommends sleeves, even evo sleeves, should I just tell them no thanks? What do you think their motive is other than more money to them? I've already told them chromoly axles shafts are fine with me, per your advice, even though they were advising rcv shafts.
 
The axle shaft its self shpuldnt be load bearing imo. Im going to do a truss and c brackets. For 275 it comes with everything if your interested ill link ya to the site.

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scrhino said:
So when a local shop "recommends sleeves, even evo sleeves, should I just tell them no thanks? What do you think their motive is other than more money to them? I've already told them chromoly axles shafts are fine with me, per your advice, even though they were advising rcv shafts.
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I think they are justified in the fact that it does make it stronger.. They just don't know how much stronger, and obviously it's not strong enough to keep it from bending!


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
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