Hood vents, Louvers, Scoops, etc - Engine Bay Heat Issues

Hawaii 5-0 said:
Does a vented hood increase your chances of sucking water into your air intake and hydro locking?
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I wouldn't think so as the portion of the hood that the air-box "seals" up against is unchanged.

On another note: I keep reading 10A hood considerations, All three of the 10As I have seen only had foe louvers or vents. (It's just for looks) Is there a conversion or other option out there where they are functional?
 
jnabird333 said:
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On another note: I keep reading 10A hood considerations, All three of the 10As I have seen only had foe louvers or vents. (It's just for looks) Is there a conversion or other option out there where they are functional?
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From what I have been told they are set up, so it would be easy to open them up and make them functional if you wanted to. Even if it is just for looks I still like the look.
 
Hawaii 5-0 said:
Does a vented hood increase your chances of sucking water into your air intake and hydro locking?
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If your gonna be driving in water deep enough to cover the hood your gonna suck some water regardless with out a snorkel.

A lil rain water or a car wash ain't gonna hydro lock it either.
 
RedFox said:
Ok, for ANYONE wondering if these actually work, here is some proof. These pictures (taken from another forum and used by me solely for the purpose of providing information on this subject) were taken with an infrared thermal imager before and after psc louver installation. Read the comment in the picture for an explanation of what you are seeing.
View attachment 51336View attachment 51337
So if you need proof, aside from the many people providing us with their positive experiences with hood louvers, there ya go 👍🍻 Hopefully someone can find this useful.
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I'm looking at this from my phone so it's hard to be sure but it looks like about four degrees. Is that right? Was kind of hoping for a larger difference if that's the case. Thanks for posting this up.
 
ttfhell said:
I'm looking at this from my phone so it's hard to be sure but it looks like about four degrees. Is that right? Was kind of hoping for a larger difference if that's the case. Thanks for posting this up.
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It looks like a 30 degree difference on top of the hood
 
Would yanking off the insulation mat on the inside of the hood make much difference?

What is the purpose of the mat anyway? Sound deadening???
 
Disregard. I searched around and see that it is in fact a sound deadening mat that came on Saharas and Rubicons.
 
My plan is to pull the mat before I add louvers. In summer run with it off and then in the winter put the mat back in (essentially plugging the louvers).
 
ttfhell said:
I'm looking at this from my phone so it's hard to be sure but it looks like about four degrees. Is that right? Was kind of hoping for a larger difference if that's the case. Thanks for posting this up.
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ttfhell, negative. I'll explain. The first pic shows the temp of the metal top and center of the hood. You will notice the operating temp there shows us 60 something degrees. The second pic explains why it is that cool in that portion of the hood. The second pic shows us that heat (90*F) is being expelled out the side and bottom of the hood. This is not good because heat naturally rises; thus, heat is not able to escape your hood efficiently or fast enough. It's being kept inside. The third or last picture shows us that with the louver installed the heat is allowed to follow its natural tendency and escapes the hood upwards as it's supposed to; thus, speeding up the cooling of the engine bay. It goes from 60 degrees in the first pic to 90 degrees in the third pic, meaning there's 30 extra degrees of hot air escaping through the top. That's impressive.
 
RedFox said:
ttfhell, negative. I'll explain. The first pic shows the temp of the metal top and center of the hood. You will notice the operating temp there shows us 60 something degrees. The second pic explains why it is that cool in that portion of the hood. The second pic shows us that heat (90*F) is being expelled out the side and bottom of the hood. This is not good because heat naturally rises; thus, heat is not able to escape your hood efficiently or fast enough. It's being kept inside. The third or last picture shows us that with the louver installed the heat is allowed to follow its natural tendency and escapes the hood upwards as it's supposed to; thus, speeding up the cooling of the engine bay. It goes from 60 degrees in the first pic to 90 degrees in the third pic, meaning there's 30 extra degrees of hot air escaping through the top. That's impressive.
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Got it. Thanks!!! Trying to read from my phone and my lack of intelligence confused me.
 
RedFox said:
Ok, for ANYONE wondering if these actually work, here is some proof. These pictures (taken from another forum and used by me solely for the purpose of providing information on this subject) were taken with an infrared thermal imager before and after psc louver installation. Read the comment in the picture for an explanation of what you are seeing.
View attachment 51336View attachment 51337
So if you need proof, aside from the many people providing us with their positive experiences with hood louvers, there ya go 👍🍻 Hopefully someone can find this useful.
Click to expand...

The first two pics are before pics. The first pic shows us the operating temp at top and center of the hood (where the engine is underneath) is 60 something degrees. This is not efficient because you want hot air to follow its natural tendency to rise. The second pic, also a before picture, explains the first pic and shows us that the stock hood prevents heat from escaping upwards as heat does naturally (think of a two story house) and instead the heat is exiting the sides and bottom of the jeep. This keeps the hot air floating near the top inside your engine compartment. The last pic is the after picture and it shows us that the temp at top and center of the hood (where the engine is underneath and where the hood louver is now) is 90 something degrees. That's a 30 degree difference! This means that now all hot air is being allowed to efficiently escape the hood of your car in an upwards direction.
 
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Hawaii 5-0 said:
Does a vented hood increase your chances of sucking water into your air intake and hydro locking?
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No. Just don't go out there and drive your jeep like a submarine without a properly sealed intake and snorkel. The abundance of rain and car washes hasn't stopped the many people that have come before us and had vented hoods. I'm talking years before us! Think muscle cars with big hot engines and vented hoods. Like I said before though, don't get too crazy while water fording and go in deeper than you should with even a stock hood. Besides, the stock hood already has an opening in top near where the louvers would go. Look at the panel where your wipers are attached. There's an opening right there and that hasn't hydro locked you soo louvers is fine
 
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jnabird333 said:
My plan is to pull the mat before I add louvers. In summer run with it off and then in the winter put the mat back in (essentially plugging the louvers).
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i would be very careful doing this, since the mat would probably soak up extra moisture that comes in throgh the vent and turn into a nasty spong quick. I am probably wrong but I feel it would be likely to happen.
 
hinrichs said:
i would be very careful doing this, since the mat would probably soak up extra moisture that comes in throgh the vent and turn into a nasty spong quick. I am probably wrong but I feel it would be likely to happen.
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Why? It gets wet every time the Jeep is driven in the rain. Granted it gets splashed from below VS water from above, but it is the same material all the way through. I would think it would just work like a gutter and redirect the water away from the center of the engine. (Just thought though, not real experience.... yet.) Good looking out though :thumb: I will watch for it when I do this.

My plan isn't to install the louvers until next late spring or early summer though... So it will be a year from now before I can provide real results.
 
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