Hinrichs 2.0

JKbrick said:
Did you replace them or get stainless or anything? Will be getting schrino's used slabs in April and wondered if I'd need to change the bolts


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While its not required. A fresh set of bolts will never hurt. Personally, i replaced mine also when i put new tires on. Just makes me feel better. Fresh tires. Fresh bolts. They're fairly expensive but worth it IMO


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JKbrick said:
Did you replace them or get stainless or anything? Will be getting schrino's used slabs in April and wondered if I'd need to change the bolts


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I was going to blast all of the bolts, but I wasn't sure if that would be a bad idea and make them rust or something. A while back I needed up asking a vendor for replacement bolts due to some rust I thought I had when some people were getting the black bolts vs the coated ones, so I had a spare set I never used, which is what I am now using time time around.
 
GregMort13 said:
While its not required. A fresh set of bolts will never hurt. Personally, i replaced mine also when i put new tires on. Just makes me feel better. Fresh tires. Fresh bolts. They're fairly expensive but worth it IMO


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hinrichs said:
I was going to blast all of the bolts, but I wasn't sure if that would be a bad idea and make them rust or something. A while back I needed up asking a vendor for replacement bolts due to some rust I thought I had when some people were getting the black bolts vs the coated ones, so I had a spare set I never used, which is what I am now using time time around.
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Where did you guys get the new ones? Do you anti seize them or should they be dry to stay tight?


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JKbrick said:
Did you replace them or get stainless or anything? Will be getting schrino's used slabs in April and wondered if I'd need to change the bolts


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I used a wire wheel and just cleaned all the corrosion off of my bolts. It's bound to happen when you have two dissimilar metals mated together like the slabs/chamber pros do.
JKbrick said:
Where did you guys get the new ones? Do you anti seize them or should they be dry to stay tight?


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I decided to use anti seize this time around when I mounted my new tires up. See if I can't prolong the corrosion if I could. Otherwise the two years prior they were dry
 
cozdude said:
I used a wire wheel and just cleaned all the corrosion off of my bolts. It's bound to happen when you have two dissimilar metals mated together like the slabs/chamber pros do.

I decided to use anti seize this time around when I mounted my new tires up. See if I can't prolong the corrosion if I could. Otherwise the two years prior they were dry
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Yup - wire wheel on the bench grinder and a couple beers.

Curious- does using anti-sieze affect the torque settings? I put mine back in dry because thinking about that gave me a brain cramp & I said screw it dry it is.

Edit: Google says: http://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf
So this says reduce torque settings by 25% when using"lubricated" bolts, which can be any sort or wet fluid application.
 
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Ddays said:
Yup - wire wheel on the bench grinder and a couple beers.

Curious- does using anti-sieze affect the torque settings? I put mine back in dry because thinking about that gave me a brain cramp & I said screw it dry it is.

Edit: Google says: http://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf
So this says reduce torque settings by 25% when using"lubricated" bolts, which can be any sort or wet fluid application.
Click to expand...

I never heard that and honestly haven't had any issues with getting bolts to torque. Everything comes off much easier as well
 
Ddays said:
Yup - wire wheel on the bench grinder and a couple beers.

Curious- does using anti-sieze affect the torque settings? I put mine back in dry because thinking about that gave me a brain cramp & I said screw it dry it is.

Edit: Google says: http://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf
So this says reduce torque settings by 25% when using"lubricated" bolts, which can be any sort or wet fluid application.
Click to expand...

So if the torque spec is say 100 when the bolt is dry you should only torque it to 75 when using something like anti-seize? Or am I reading that wrong?
 
cozdude said:
I never heard that and honestly haven't had any issues with getting bolts to torque. Everything comes off much easier as well
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MR.Ty said:
So if the torque spec is say 100 when the bolt is dry you should only torque it to 75 when using something like anti-seize? Or am I reading that wrong?
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JKbrick said:
That's how I read that also but having not known that I have always anti seized other bolts and used specified torque
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I knew it affected the settings but never took the time to google it to see what it actually called for. 25% is pretty significant. I'm not an engineer but I wonder at what point does/can
metal fatigue creep in or is it a non-issue? Good question for ATX/Wheel pros. Think I might call them today.
 
I ended up leaving the bolts dry this time around again, I will slowly clean up the spare set of bolts I have just incase. I was going to get a price on new ones from Fastenal yesterday when I got new inserts since 2 came out, but I didnt think enough about it to ask and the guy was kind of an idiot so I didnt really trust him lol.

I can tell you they are 3/8-16 pitch, as I finally got to use my tap and die set while I cleaned out all the inserts before remounting.
 
MR.Ty said:
So if the torque spec is say 100 when the bolt is dry you should only torque it to 75 when using something like anti-seize? Or am I reading that wrong?
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this is correct, according to that article. however, with Torque being the easily measurable byproduct of what you are actually looking for (clamping force) any and ALL torque specs are the center of a mean target to yield "about this much clamping force" I would lean on the side of caution reducing by 25% though. this is not a straight forward mathematical problem, lots of things come into play. thread pitch, diameter, tooth profile, material, friction coefficient of the lubricant, film thickness of the lubricant... :yawn37: etc... besically, a blanket statement of "-25%" is an "I'm an engineer" statement, which around here we all know is BS

Ddays said:
I wonder at what point does/can
metal fatigue creep in or is it a non-issue? Good question for ATX/Wheel pros. Think I might call them today.
Click to expand...

14990996.jpg

Metal fatigue is a term for analyzing the life-cycle of a particular part (a fastener in this discussion) while this is important to keep in mind, for this specific example it isn't as critical and let me explain why...

the grade-5 3/8-16 coarse thread fastener that ships with the wheel has a maximum dry working torque of 33 ft-lbs; @ which, it should produce somewhere in the ballpark of 4940 lbf (clamping force). ATX instructs us to dry torque the assembly to 24 ft-lbs, Very nearly 25% less then maximum dry working torque.

The entire clamping load comes from the bolt head, pulling though the shaft of the bolt, and to the thread engagement. As you tighten the bolt, the distance between the bolt head and thread engagement shortens. so what happens when the distance between the bolt head and the thread engagement can no longer shorten? (like when the beadlock ring is flush to the rim) If you continue to tighten the bolt, the bolt head will remain the same distance from the thread engagement, however, stress is introduced into the bolt, creating the clamping force. When the stress in the bolt exceeds the mechanical limit for elastic load of the material, the bolt will "stretch" past the point of returning to its original state, known as Creep. However, clamping force will still increase up to certain point depending on the bolt material. this is why a lot of headstuds, flywheel hardware, etc are to be replaced every time they are loosed. inorder to produce the clamping force required for the application, the elastic limits of the bolt material had to be surpassed and bolt "creeped". Because of that, the bolt is no longer as strong as it used to be (it is fatigued)
 
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DWiggles said:
this is correct, according to that article. however, with Torque being the easily measurable byproduct of what you are actually looking for (clamping force) any and ALL torque specs are the center of a mean target to yield "about this much clamping force" I would lean on the side of caution reducing by 25% though. this is not a straight forward mathematical problem, lots of things come into play. thread pitch, diameter, tooth profile, material, friction coefficient of the lubricant, film thickness of the lubricant... :yawn37: etc... besically, a blanket statement of "-25%" is an "I'm an engineer" statement, which around here we all know is BS



View attachment 244383

Metal fatigue is a term for analyzing the life-cycle of a particular part (a fastener in this discussion) while this is important to keep in mind, for this specific example it isn't as critical and let me explain why...

the grade-5 3/8-16 coarse thread fastener that ships with the wheel has a maximum dry working torque of 33 ft-lbs; @ which, it should produce somewhere in the ballpark of 4940 lbf (clamping force). ATX instructs us to dry torque the assembly to 24 ft-lbs, Very nearly 25% less then maximum dry working torque.

The entire clamping load comes from the bolt head, pulling though the shaft of the bolt, and to the thread engagement. As you tighten the bolt, the distance between the bolt head and thread engagement shortens. so what happens when the distance between the bolt head and the thread engagement can no longer shorten? (like when the beadlock ring is flush to the rim) If you continue to tighten the bolt, the bolt head will remain the same distance from the thread engagement, however, stress is introduced into the bolt, creating the clamping force. When the stress in the bolt exceeds the mechanical limit for elastic load of the material, the bolt will "stretch" past the point of returning to its original state, known as Creep. However, clamping force will still increase up to certain point depending on the bolt material. this is why a lot of headstuds, flywheel hardware, etc are to be replaced every time they are loosed. inorder to produce the clamping force required for the application, the elastic limits of the bolt material had to be surpassed and bolt "creeped". Because of that, the bolt is no longer as strong as it used to be (it is fatigued)
Click to expand...


:bowdown:

Excellent response - thanks for the explanation!
 
DWiggles said:
this is correct, according to that article. however, with Torque being the easily measurable byproduct of what you are actually looking for (clamping force) any and ALL torque specs are the center of a mean target to yield "about this much clamping force" I would lean on the side of caution reducing by 25% though. this is not a straight forward mathematical problem, lots of things come into play. thread pitch, diameter, tooth profile, material, friction coefficient of the lubricant, film thickness of the lubricant... :yawn37: etc... besically, a blanket statement of "-25%" is an "I'm an engineer" statement, which around here we all know is BS



View attachment 244383

Metal fatigue is a term for analyzing the life-cycle of a particular part (a fastener in this discussion) while this is important to keep in mind, for this specific example it isn't as critical and let me explain why...

the grade-5 3/8-16 coarse thread fastener that ships with the wheel has a maximum dry working torque of 33 ft-lbs; @ which, it should produce somewhere in the ballpark of 4940 lbf (clamping force). ATX instructs us to dry torque the assembly to 24 ft-lbs, Very nearly 25% less then maximum dry working torque.

The entire clamping load comes from the bolt head, pulling though the shaft of the bolt, and to the thread engagement. As you tighten the bolt, the distance between the bolt head and thread engagement shortens. so what happens when the distance between the bolt head and the thread engagement can no longer shorten? (like when the beadlock ring is flush to the rim) If you continue to tighten the bolt, the bolt head will remain the same distance from the thread engagement, however, stress is introduced into the bolt, creating the clamping force. When the stress in the bolt exceeds the mechanical limit for elastic load of the material, the bolt will "stretch" past the point of returning to its original state, known as Creep. However, clamping force will still increase up to certain point depending on the bolt material. this is why a lot of headstuds, flywheel hardware, etc are to be replaced every time they are loosed. inorder to produce the clamping force required for the application, the elastic limits of the bolt material had to be surpassed and bolt "creeped". Because of that, the bolt is no longer as strong as it used to be (it is fatigued)
Click to expand...

:cheesy: Thank you for the Nerd Alert. :D
 
#3 and I'm letting CJS tire pull the last 2, YouTube makes this look way easier. Tonight's was too much of a fight to make me want to do the rest myself sadly


Coopers sure mount weird I must say


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Didn't take any pics since it's dark, but just got the spare finished up after actually figuring out how to dismount the tires correctly which saved me too much time I wish I would have known all along.

It's official since I had to pull the nitto sticker

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