OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Why are you so concerned with a "high steer kit"?
Help on a lift Please! Rock Krawler
- Thread starter bkac
- Start date
Why are you so concerned with a "high steer kit"?
TheDuff
New member
Compared to the tj, I would consider the stock jk a midarm. .. the extra 1" of length on the rock krawler kit sounds good in theory, but has all these issues discussed already in this thread. Hardly worth all the trouble imo and rock krawler clearly doesn't provide good solutions for the issues in the kit...
I honestly couldn't recommend this kit to anyone, there are far more beneficial and more complete kits out there, that in the long run would cost less and be less headache. Just my 2 cents
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I honestly couldn't recommend this kit to anyone, there are far more beneficial and more complete kits out there, that in the long run would cost less and be less headache. Just my 2 cents
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TheDuff
New member
Really, to answer your primary question: it's too much lift for 35's and to drive great, you really have to spend a lot on items to correct the steering geometry. I don't know what your budget is like, but a few thousand dollars to some people isn't anything, while to others (like myself) it is. So with that said, you can clear 35's no problem with a leveling kit, cut fenders, 2" bumpstop upfront and 1-2" bumpstop in the rear. Want more flex you say? Cool, add some 1-3" lift shocks from the brand of your choice, some brake line drop brackets, or better yet new extended lines, and have all the flex of that high priced lift with factory like handling. I'll include a couple pics here to reinforce my statements. The 4 door has the RK 3.5 springs from the kit your looking at, with 35" km's. The 2 door has a leveling kit with 1-3" bilstien 5160's and 285 km2's (they measure out to be taller than the same tire that's stamped 35" on the side wall). A girl owns and daily drives the 2 door and yea, it rides a lot nicer on the street than the 4 door. Both have factory control arms and similar length shocks.
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2007blackJk
Member
The previous gen coils ran stiff compared to the new triple rate coils w/ stock rage ride rates. They handle and feel great.
I've seen too many shops install these arms back further then needed. Pushing the arms to their max causing all kinds of issues. Setup correctly there should be no issues .. Especially running a 3.5" coil.
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Compared to what?
With 3.5" of lift, a slight increase of about 1/4"-3/8" is needed to correct your axle position and this is assuming you have adjustable upper arms installed as well to account for caster up front and pinion angle in the rear. EVEN AT THEIR SHORTEST LENGHT of 1" longer than stock, they are way too long and will cause unnecessary spring bow and potential rubbing issues.
2007blackJk
Member
I agree here ^
Comparing the new triple rate coils to the old (progressive/linear combo)
I love my 3.5" AEV setup, and am running 37's with Stock Fenders with full bumpers. I wheel it hard, get back on the road and it is rock solid. Trackbars raised front and rear, steering flip, stabilizer over the tierod. On and off road it's quite and smooth. Plenty of flex, with the long wheel base of the 4 door, it's all that's needed. Stock arms and the drop brackets have held up very well. I used the AFE replacement crossover exhaust to move it behind the cross member and address the clearance issue as well as protect it.
I'm sure you do in fact love your AEV setup and that's cool but, what exactly are you comparing it to when you say you have "plenty of flex"? When you say that you "wheel it hard", how are you not hitting your lower control arm drop brackets all the time? Even without huge drop brackets, I used to hit my factory frame mounts all the time and to the point where they were getting damaged. Also, while your exhaust cross over replacement will prevent your slip shaft boot from getting damaged, what have you done to address the pinching of the CV boot caused by severe angle that your drive shaft is now sitting in? Or, are you just planning to replace your shaft once the CV boot fails as it will?
noroad
New member
I hit my control arms in a gravel driveway once just once lol!
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noroad
New member
:cheesy: You're a badass
Yaa forget those lower control arm skids!!
2007blackJk
Member
Owned !!! Lol
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
I have a hole in my exhaust now because the spacers pushed it down and I hit it on a rock. Not to mention my factory control arm mounts are thrashed! But the mall can be hard.
I am comparing it to all the other suspension systems I have had in long arm, short arm, installed, repaired, and such on TJ's, JK's, shop and trail.
There is a point where flex becomes a negative in the bigger picture, especially when lockers are added, extreme flex is not needed.
A balanced suspension system working in unison is the key. I run the factory rubicon sway bars front and rear, 5100 shocks for a 4" lift. By having a more controlled system, the driveshaft is not over flexed. So in this setup, the factory shaft works very well.
I have landed many times on the brackets, and lower arms. Yes, there are scars from the trail as expected. I drive with that in mind, plan my route as required.
Long Arms on the JK, I see more as a negative than a positive, except in the case of a "go fast" design, but that is a whole other discussions.
I stick with my statement, love the AEV for on/off road best and smoothest bolt on setup. No squeaks, clunks or such. If I do need to replace an arm or even a drive shaft, I can pick them up for cents on the dollar from everyone's takeoff's
I will at some point replace both driveshafts, simply because, I love to upgrade, the factory shafts, work for now.
Such as? I'd be interested in hearing what other JK suspension systems you have personally installed and tested on your Jeep. Not interested in TJ stuff as it's a totally different animal.
Really? Being that you wheel your Jeep hard, can you give me an example of a trail or maybe a specific obstacle where flex becomes a "negative"? :idontknow:
Never said that a factory shaft won't work, just that a 2012-Up JK has a motor that sits at a steeper angle than a 2007-11. This angle causes the front drive shaft to sit at a steeper angle as well when lifted and consequently, will causes the CV boot on the output shaft to remain in a constant state of pinch even when driving around town. Over time, this pinch will cause the boot to fail prematurely. But hey, that's just what I've seen.
Oh, you "plan your route as required"? Silly me, I guess I just close my eyes and hope for the best. :crazyeyes:
Of course you will - you own an AEV lift kit :yup:
No different than stock, but of course, that is what you are essentially running... stock suspension components bolted onto $1700 relocation brackets, coils and shocks.
If I do need to replace an arm or even a drive shaft, I can pick them up for cents on the dollar from everyone's takeoff's
Good luck with a front drive shaft. All the take offs I've ever seen all are jacked up - hence, why they are take offs. Control arms you can get for free for sure.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
I am comparing it to all the other suspension systems I have had in long arm, short arm, installed, repaired, and such on TJ's, JK's, shop and trail.
There is a point where flex becomes a negative in the bigger picture, especially when lockers are added, extreme flex is not needed.
A balanced suspension system working in unison is the key. I run the factory rubicon sway bars front and rear, 5100 shocks for a 4" lift. By having a more controlled system, the driveshaft is not over flexed. So in this setup, the factory shaft works very well.
I have landed many times on the brackets, and lower arms. Yes, there are scars from the trail as expected. I drive with that in mind, plan my route as required.
Long Arms on the JK, I see more as a negative than a positive, except in the case of a "go fast" design, but that is a whole other discussions.
I stick with my statement, love the AEV for on/off road best and smoothest bolt on setup. No squeaks, clunks or such. If I do need to replace an arm or even a drive shaft, I can pick them up for cents on the dollar from everyone's takeoff's
I will at some point replace both driveshafts, simply because, I love to upgrade, the factory shafts, work for now.
There is so much fail in this post. :thumb:
2007blackJk
Member
AEV folks will go the extra mile sticking up for their $1200-$2000 coils and overpriced 5100's.
He does make a good point with free/cheap replacement parts.
He does make a good point with free/cheap replacement parts.