Help me plan 1st winch installation?

notnalc68 said:
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There should be an extra bolt, sticking up on your negative terminal. I used an M6 flange nut, from Home Depot ($0.58) to attach the negative cable, there, and ran the positive to the row of 3 bolts behind the positive terminal.
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I did the same except due to lack of hardware stores I stole an unused nut from the other side of the engine bay.
The ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1455996371.775613.jpg
 
Thanks for these pictures, both of these setups are nice and clean and will help me with my future winch installation. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Mike
 
Good stuff in this thread. Thanks all. I'll be attempting to install my zeon fairly soon. Any pics of how you all ran your wires from the bumper to the battery. Have read one needs to be careful not to pinch or crimp or rub wires on any sharp edges in this step.
 
JAGS said:
Good stuff in this thread. Thanks all. I'll be attempting to install my zeon fairly soon. Any pics of how you all ran your wires from the bumper to the battery. Have read one needs to be careful not to pinch or crimp or rub wires on any sharp edges in this step.
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Here you go JAGS. Just route your positive wire in a way where they won't rub on things during normal time/miles/wear. It's not as big of a deal on the negative wire, but the positive wire is a huge deal. Warn provides a damn good corrugated tube/sheath around the positive wire so it should last a long time. I know I have a WJ, but I'll try to post some pics later just to show how I did it near all of my metal edges. Basically you don't want it resting against anything metal where the metal would cut into it over time during normal vibrations and movements. Buy a bag of zipties to secure it where you want it as you route it.

In the pictures below, the red lightning bolt is the positive and the black line is the negative. I just zip tied the positive away from metal edges.

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Thanks WJCO. Everything will help. Yeah, that wrap on the zeons positive is pretty strong. I've also seen examples to wrap spots with additional rubber hose and zip tie there.
 
So, reviving this now that I actually ordered my winch.

I do not see on 4wd.com or warn.com if the mounting hardware for the winch itself is included. I do see where it gives the size and minimum of grade 5 hardware requirements. Should I assume that will be in the box?

The M6 nut is on my shopping list, but will I likely need/want more of the corrugated wire cover? I have tons of zip ties.

I will have to make final modifications to my DIY front bumper and have 1/4"x6" steel to make my winch plate with. I'm also guessing I will finally need to relocate my vac pump.


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Overall "build thread"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build

DIY trail/tube door build http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24449-My-DIY-Doors
 
USMC Wrangler said:
So, reviving this now that I actually ordered my winch.

I do not see on 4wd.com or warn.com if the mounting hardware for the winch itself is included. I do see where it gives the size and minimum of grade 5 hardware requirements. Should I assume that will be in the box?

The M6 nut is on my shopping list, but will I likely need/want more of the corrugated wire cover? I have tons of zip ties.

I will have to make final modifications to my DIY front bumper and have 1/4"x6" steel to make my winch plate with. I'm also guessing I will finally need to relocate my vac pump.


.......................................................................
Overall "build thread"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build

DIY trail/tube door build http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24449-My-DIY-Doors
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My new one and used one both came with hardware. The wiring has plenty of corrugated sheathing on it. (SEE EDIT BELOW) It only matters on the power wire. The ground wire won't get hurt if it rubs through on metal. Also a tip, I messed up on my first one, on the fairlead bolts, run the bolt from the inside outward. I did my first one the other way and the nut hit the winch. I'll try to post some pics shortly of how we routed the wires on the jk.

EDIT: My 8s came with plenty of corrugated sheathing. The 10s did not. However, the 10 was a multi mount package and the wiring looks way different. I would think the regular 10s would be just like the 8 and have enough.
 
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So on our 3.8L, we ran it under the grill and under the radiator to start with.

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Then as viewed here from underneath, we ran it just above the sway bar next to a large wiring harness.

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Then continued it up that same harness as viewed through the RF fender area (inner liners removed).

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Then straight up towards the PS reservoir making sure to keep it away from the radiator hose.

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Then ran the wiring under the large fluid hose connected to the bottom of the PS reservoir.

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Then along the RF fender area under the hood all the way to the battery.

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USMC Wrangler said:
Cool, thanks. That's all just the wiring that comes with it? No need to extend it?


.......................................................................
Overall "build thread"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build

DIY trail/tube door build http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24449-My-DIY-Doors
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to extend it. Both of our winches came with plenty of wiring. Just route it tight but make sure positive wire isn't rubbing on anything metal. Lots of zip ties.
 
WJCO said:
You shouldn't have to extend it. Both of our winches came with plenty of wiring. Just route it tight but make sure positive wire isn't rubbing on anything metal. Lots of zip ties.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I have tons of zip ties.


.......................................................................
Overall "build thread"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?26097-I-guess-it-s-the-quot-Super-Stocker-quot-build

DIY trail/tube door build http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?24449-My-DIY-Doors
 
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