GraniteCrystal build thread

Maybe I'm just tightening it down too much? Noticed this geometry and wondering if it's made to bleed pressure and I'm just sealing it too tight. Going to experiment with that theory next and see if I can quantify how many turns to go so that it seals the liquid but not the vapor.

IMG_20170319_111723.jpg

Also, note to self: pour gas into Jeep before attempting to re-seal the tiny hole you made by HOLDING A FLAME TO THE ROTOPAX to melt the plastic. Nearly blew myself up. Stupid. Stupid. Stupid.
 
Probably not thinking straight but I'm not sure what type of device would let the vapor out and not the liquid. In plumbing we use a mechanical fitting called an air admittance valve that lets air into a drain so it drains but doesn't let out sewer gas. Same theory as what you want when you are pouring so the can doesn't glug glug glug


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GraniteCrystal said:
Maybe I'm just tightening it down too much? Noticed this geometry and wondering if it's made to bleed pressure and I'm just sealing it too tight. Going to experiment with that theory next and see if I can quantify how many turns to go so that it seals the liquid but not the vapor.

View attachment 248884

Also, note to self: pour gas into Jeep before attempting to re-seal the tiny hole you made by HOLDING A FLAME TO THE ROTOPAX to melt the plastic. Nearly blew myself up. Stupid. Stupid. Stupid.
Click to expand...
The gas fumes in a empty rotopax will be more volatile than a full container.

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Got a new DIY project for you guys today: bottle opener.

After relocating my license plate, I wanted to replace the hole with one of these:
Screenshot_20170319-160317.png

But they were no longer available. So I made my own!

The JKS relocation kit came with a small metal plate to cover the hole. I used that as my outline and it's a piece of the final assembly.
IMG_20170222_180125.jpg

I then drew my design:
IMG_20170222_180554.jpg

Time to start cutting!
IMG_20170222_183104.jpg

Tried it out and the design evolved as I kept testing the fit.
IMG_20170222_194628.jpg

Clamp them together for final cuts:
IMG_20170224_144514.jpg

Bent by hand to same curvature:
IMG_20170224_145223.jpg

Bent it outward:
IMG_20170224_151345.jpg

Clamp and drill holes to match:
IMG_20170224_151710.jpg

Spray painted:
IMG_20170224_154013.jpg

I mounted it up and tried it out. Failure. I forgot about the bumper so the bottle had to invert to open. I tried with a Corona and ended with beer sprayed all over me.
IMG_20170319_121327.jpg

So...bent it out in a new way.
IMG_20170319_125553.jpg

IMG_20170319_125600.jpg

And changed up the shape of the hole.
IMG_20170319_125609.jpg

Here it is all done!
IMG_20170319_133606.jpg

IMG_20170319_133613.jpg

IMG_20170319_133623.jpg

IMG_20170319_134033.jpg

15 second video showing it work:
https://youtu.be/tcV-IpL3WnU
 
GraniteCrystal said:
Got a new DIY project for you guys today: bottle opener.

After relocating my license plate, I wanted to replace the hole with one of these:
View attachment 248907

But they were no longer available. So I made my own!

The JKS relocation kit came with a small metal plate to cover the hole. I used that as my outline and it's a piece of the final assembly.
View attachment 248909

I then drew my design:
View attachment 248910

Time to start cutting!
View attachment 248911

Tried it out and the design evolved as I kept testing the fit.
View attachment 248912

Clamp them together for final cuts:
View attachment 248913

Bent by hand to same curvature:
View attachment 248914

Bent it outward:
View attachment 248916

Clamp and drill holes to match:
View attachment 248915

Spray painted:
View attachment 248917

I mounted it up and tried it out. Failure. I forgot about the bumper so the bottle had to invert to open. I tried with a Corona and ended with beer sprayed all over me.
View attachment 248921

So...bent it out in a new way.
View attachment 248919

View attachment 248920

And changed up the shape of the hole.
View attachment 248918

Here it is all done!
View attachment 248922

View attachment 248923

View attachment 248924

View attachment 248925

15 second video showing it work:
https://youtu.be/tcV-IpL3WnU
Click to expand...

That's awesome! Great idea!


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Took Scout into Trail Jeeps this morning for the follow up diff oil change after 750 miles. All looked good. Oil was greenish and shiny. No metal chunks.

Also had them flex it out for the first time with 37s on there to check pinch seam, brake lines, fender rub, and sway bar. Everything passed with flying colors. I'm going to trim about 1/2" off the rear corner of the pinch seams in the rear wheel wells just to be safe, but nothing rubbed.

IMG_20170320_092459.jpg

IMG_20170320_092228.jpg

IMG_20170320_092214.jpg

IMG_20170320_092449.jpg

Stuffing up into the fenders. No rub with those lines I chose 👍
IMG_20170320_092557.jpg

IMG_20170320_092414.jpg

Sway bar not over rotated (sway bar still connected but it not going to droop significantly more such that it'd be close to over rotating)
IMG_20170320_092552.jpg
 
Doing more research on a new front bumper. I think I've narrowed it down to these two. I'm noticing lots of similarities between the different options (the new LoD is very similar to existing Crawler Conceptz and Poison Spyder bumpers), but each of these had something unique going for it the others didn't.

Option 1: LoD Destroyer Series - $687
Pros: same line as my Destroyer rear series bumper
http://lodoffroad.com/products/jeep...nt-bumpers/2007-2016-jk-destroyer-shorty.html
lod_bumper.JPG

Option 2: Crawler Conceptz Ultra Series - $750
Pros: recessed winch
http://crawlerconceptz.com/index.php/ultra-series-jk-front-bumper-recessed-winch-mount-bar-tabs.html
cc_bumper.JPG

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Personally I like the recessed winch better, but one detail to ask either company: Do you have to remove the winch in order to remove the grille?
With my FMF Apex I have to take the winch out first. I really like the bumper but having to do this first is a pain in the ass. Looks like possibly the CC
version is the same way? Worth asking.

Edit: Talking specifically about the Warn Zeon series. Can't speak towards any other make or models.
 
Ddays said:
Personally I like the recessed winch better, but one detail to ask either company: Do you have to remove the winch in order to remove the grille?
With my FMF Apex I have to take the winch out first. I really like the bumper but having to do this first is a pain in the ass. Looks like possibly the CC
version is the same way? Worth asking.
Click to expand...
You have to remove the winch to remove the grille? How did they even make it like that? Sounds like a big pain the butt.
 
GraniteCrystal said:
You have to remove the winch to remove the grille? How did they even make it like that? Sounds like a big pain the butt.
Click to expand...

It's because the winch is so far back in the bumper you can't pull the grille forward enough to get it loose. The winch almost touches the grill. I suppose if you don't care about paint you could work it loose but
its easier to just take the damn thing out.
 
Ddays said:
It's because the winch is so far back in the bumper you can't pull the grille forward enough to get it loose. The winch almost touches the grill. I suppose if you don't care about paint you could work it loose but
its easier to just take the damn thing out.
Click to expand...
I called. They haven't tried but didn't think it'd pose an issue. Not quite sure what to do with that.
 
Here's a couple pics to show how close it is. It's almost touching the winch but not quite. The problem is that you can't easily pop the bottom pins that hold the bottom of the grille out.


0320172049b.jpg


0320172049.jpg
 
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