GraniteCrystal build thread

Mike_JK_Houston_711 said:
Hey granite, took a note out of your build thread with your bungee cord rear cargo set up. I'll likely mess with it to clean it up, but I like getting things up and out of the way. Sleeping bag, first aid kit, quick fire starter, hand sanitizer, GoPro, and bug repellant strung up and room for more!

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Nice! Looks great! If that position doesn't work, you can try going between headrests, which is what I eventually ended up doing.

IMG_20160814_205003.jpg

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
 
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I have a Pioneer Rhino Rack on my Anvil...it is rock solid. Without side rails, a 3.5" lift & 35's I'm 6'7" tall and fit most garages. It comes with removable tie down loops that I only put on when needed for clearance reasons.

I have also used the tow hitch cargo rack on my pickup truck...it's okay for taking extra stuff to the beach, but I wouldn't use one for trail use...you have no departure angle. If you get a steel one, they rust pretty quickly...they do make them in aluminum, but are much more costly and not as strong...

I'd go the Rhino-Rack route myself


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Brute said:
View attachment 235458

I have a Pioneer Rhino Rack on my Anvil...it is rock solid. Without side rails, a 3.5" lift & 35's I'm 6'7" tall and fit most garages. It comes with removable tie down loops that I only put on when needed for clearance reasons.

I have also used the tow hitch cargo rack on my pickup truck...it's okay for taking extra stuff to the beach, but I wouldn't use one for trail use...you have no departure angle. If you get a steel one, they rust pretty quickly...they do make them in aluminum, but are much more costly and not as strong...

I'd go the Rhino-Rack route myself


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I can also take off my freedom panels with the Pioneer Rack


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Brute said:
I can also take off my freedom panels with the Pioneer Rack


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Brute said:
View attachment 235458

I have a Pioneer Rhino Rack on my Anvil...it is rock solid. Without side rails, a 3.5" lift & 35's I'm 6'7" tall and fit most garages. It comes with removable tie down loops that I only put on when needed for clearance reasons.

I have also used the tow hitch cargo rack on my pickup truck...it's okay for taking extra stuff to the beach, but I wouldn't use one for trail use...you have no departure angle. If you get a steel one, they rust pretty quickly...they do make them in aluminum, but are much more costly and not as strong...

I'd go the Rhino-Rack route myself


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Thanks Brute. I appreciate the perspective. So the hard top is attached to the rack? If the hard top comes off, so does the rack?

If 37s is the goal, that'd be cutting it close but probably fit.

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
 
GraniteCrystal said:
Thanks Brute. I appreciate the perspective. So the hard top is attached to the rack? If the hard top comes off, so does the rack?

If 37s is the goal, that'd be cutting it close but probably fit.

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
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Taking off the hard top would be problematic...the Rack support is screwed into the roll cage bars


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Brute said:
That would certainly work better than the hitch carrier...you might have to modify the top bar for clearance


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Nothing a little dremel can't take care of :)
WJCO said:
Eddie had an old Lod rack like that. Looked just like that. Maybe he can comment.

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Yeah, exactly that. Hope he chimes in.

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
 
I will say, Scott, having a swing out carrier myself (even though I built it myself), the more you put on there, the more seems to rattle and vibrate. I can't speak for the LOD, but when I first built mine, I was set on putting gas, water, cooler, etc on it, and now I'm the opposite. I don't even leave my hi-lift on unless I'm going on the trail. I have just found too many little rattles and shifting. Then again, I may not have designed it correctly for all that crap on there either.
 
Got a new DIY project to show you guys. I'm not the first to do this but here's my version. Total cost: about $7 and an hour of time.

This is inspired by a camping trip I took a few weeks ago. Found it's not possible to open trunk from the inside, which is a pain when camping in the back with seats down.

First step is to pop off the plastic grate on the inside of the tailgate so you can see inside.

Here is the hook that we need to wrap the rope around
IMG_20161223_154435.jpg

I burned the end and melted it back onto itself
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Wrapped over the hook
IMG_20161223_160602.jpg

Run the rope thru the hole (remove grommet)
IMG_20161223_160623.jpg

Cut hole in grommet. I used 11/32" drill bit
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Grommet back in
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Cut a section of rope 2' long
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Double it up and position it at the top of the rope coming out
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Start braiding, keep the first bit loose
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Braid the end back into the loosely braided first portion
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Trim the ends
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Burn those together
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All done
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View from inside when closed
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YouTube video of it working
https://youtu.be/9xWiU4iJHHk

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
 
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