GFrench 1976 CJ5 Restoration

gfrench

gfrench

Member
I now have the body off my CJ5 rebuild project and have a question on the suspension and transfer case position.

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Not being real familiar with the set up I have here.... I see there are shackles on the front and rear Leaf springs- measures 3 " from center of bottom bolt to center of top bolt. What would be considered stock height? 3"?

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Also the skid plate/transfer case has been dropped 1 1/2" does this make sense and appropriate? want to put in all new bushings in the leafs and a better shims for the skid plate.

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Just want to know if this all sounds right and the way it should be. I was wondering why the engine had a definite tilt upward and now see with the transfer case lowered 1 1/2" would explain it.

So with this set up guessing I should leave the skid plate/transer case lowered as is?

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Thanks for any help and or direction here- appreciate it,

No bushings left in those leaf springs so what a difference that will make once all back together right.

 
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Seeing this as well-

"stock is 3" and considered stock height.
A half inch lift will be a 4" shackle, a 1" lift will be 5" long."

my two front and two rear are 3" center to center of bolts... so does this truly mean I have stock set up here?

If so wonder why the skid/transfer plate was lowered?
 
If you are keeping everything stock you do not need spacers. they are to correct drive line angles. If you have stock leaf springs and stock shackles they are unneeded.
 
weck said:
If you are keeping everything stock you do not need spacers. they are to correct drive line angles. If you have stock leaf springs and stock shackles they are unneeded.
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thats good- really appreciate the response...

since my current shackles are 3" from center to center of both bolts... it appears that is stock. if someone can confirm.

If stock will remove spacers in skid plate and bolt back up to frame. Thanks
 
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Just because the hangers appear to be stock does not mean the leaf springs are. Judging by the picture it looks like they dropped the transfer case because the drive line angle was probably causing u-joint failure.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
^^^^This.

This springs are lifted springs. The shackles look like stock size. The lifted springs at some point made the rear drive shaft fail or have a lot of vibration so the previous owner rotated The Whole drive line to attempt to correct it. I’m not sure what that did to the motor mounts but I would look into replacing them as well.


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98XJ06LJ said:
Just because the hangers appear to be stock does not mean the leaf springs are. Judging by the picture it looks like they dropped the transfer case because the drive line angle was probably causing u-joint failure.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply...

yeah thinking the same thing and that was my question if the stock shackles are used with a lift type leaf spring... appears so
 
wjtstudios said:
^^^^This.

This springs are lifted springs. The shackles look like stock size. The lifted springs at some point made the rear drive shaft fail or have a lot of vibration so the previous owner rotated The Whole drive line to attempt to correct it. I’m not sure what that did to the motor mounts but I would look into replacing them as well.


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Click to expand...


Thanks for confirming the lift Springs that are on there... Yeah will be replacing motor mounts for sure. Appreciate all of the info.


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wjtstudios said:
Looking at my 258, to top of the block is almost level. There is a bit lean towards the firewall by its practically flat.




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Click to expand...

Do you have your Skid plate/ trans case lowered like mine- about 1 1/2 inches?

Here is the angle of my engine-

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Engine mount- Will be installing new mounts for sure!

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Does my drive shaft and differential look like a normal set up?

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Sorry for all the questions just trying to learn as I go here and to make sure I have it right before I get to the new body parts. Thanks for all the help here.


 
Been doing some research and found this...

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Is this truly the right way to measure the actual lift on my Jeep?
 
Started the tear down on my 76 CJ5 and now noticing what appears to be the rear axle has been turned upside down?

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Why would someone do this? What wast the Purpose of this?

Any issue with this set up.

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Drove the Jeep prior to tear down and seems to roll nice...
 
I'm guessing, but it looks to me like someone did a spring over lift on it. The different angle on the top pad would point the pinion up towards the transfer case.
 
jdofmemi said:
I'm guessing, but it looks to me like someone did a spring over lift on it. The different angle on the top pad would point the pinion up towards the transfer case.
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Completely agree. Upper spring perch is not stock. It was definitely added and Jeep at some point had spring over lift. Unless someone swapped the rear diff in from another Jeep. Does the front diff also have top mount spring perches?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
98XJ06LJ said:
Completely agree. Upper spring perch is not stock. It was definitely added and Jeep at some point had spring over lift. Unless someone swapped the rear diff in from another Jeep. Does the front diff also have top mount spring perches?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...


Yep- agree as well- No perches added to the front diff... so who knows what was going on..

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If the true way of measuring lift is with the earlier pic i posted about measuring from the top of axle to bottom of line across top of leaf spring... then that would only put my jeep at 2 1/2" lift so would be no need to lower the Skid Plate/Transfer case an 1 1/2" right?


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Your rear driveshaft angle looks pretty severe already. If you raise it back up, then picture it at full droop, it may bind the U joints.
Worst case the slip yoke could either come apart, or not have enough engagement which could lead to stripped splines
 
jdofmemi said:
Your rear driveshaft angle looks pretty severe already. If you raise it back up, then picture it at full droop, it may bind the U joints.
Worst case the slip yoke could either come apart, or not have enough engagement which could lead to stripped splines
Click to expand...

Appreciate the information/advice here... will leave it lowered as is. Other then the engine being tilted not seeing any other possible issues.

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Sorry for my delayed response here...

Yeah project is moving along now. Have the rolling chassis pretty much all set up and safe now.



New Rear Cross Member- replaced Rear End due to original had some bad rust inside- New BDS Suspension/Shocks - New Skid plate/brace- new motor and trans mounts- replace two body mounts- New front bumper.




Have new parts starting to roll in now- Gas Tank- Sender unit- All new Fuel and Brake lines-

Now in the process of scrapping. wire wheeling to clean up the frame to prep for some Satin Black KBS coating.


Was pretty much set on painting the jeep Red... but then i saw a pic of this beauty with the tan interior and seriously considering white now for sure.






Should be ready to order the new Tub- Hood- Fenders- Winsheild Frame in the next 30 to 60 days from Willy's-Overland.

Going to be a brand new jeep sort of- everything touch- cleaned- painted - replace except for Engine- Transmission and Drive shaft... all is great shape.
 
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