Front Track Bar Relocation Bracket?

M

MDK210

New member
Can’t seem to find the answer on Google. Running a 3.5-4” lift...

Q: do I need a front track bar relocation bracket if I buy an adjustable track bar? Bracket seems to raise the height of the track bar for my size lift but I don’t see a whole lot companies making front ones only the rear.

Thanks.
 
No. You don't "need" both. If you already have an adjustable track bar, that alone will help to recenter your axle. However, it will NOT correct your steering geometry. A track bar relocation bracket AND a drag link flip is what you will need for that.
 
wayoflife said:
No. You don't "need" both. If you already have an adjustable track bar, that alone will help to recenter your axle. However, it will NOT correct your steering geometry. A track bar relocation bracket AND a drag link flip is what you will need for that.
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Thanks for the info and that’s the plan. Do a drag link flip, tie rod, and track bar at the same time so sounds like if I add the relocation bracket that’s pretty much it.
 
Yup, what Eddie said.

Look at the synergy weld on bracket. It lets you add a hydro assist ram if you ever want to down the road. You can use that along with a flip drag link arm and actually save money vs. the bolt together "mess" the EVO kit is.
 
I agree with Zimm, I'm running the Synergy bolt-on bracket with the drag link flip but I plan on adding hydro assist and the weld-on version soon. Well worth the investment to go with a weld-on option, plus it's just so much stronger and less prone to fail.
 
I ran the Synergy bolt on bracket for several years with my stock 44 front. No problems. Worked great.

When I swapped in the PR44, I went with a Synergy weld on with hydro tabs. No problems. Works great, despite my crappy welding skills.
 
Dynatrac has a really beefy bracket w/ hydro tab on there newer PR44. I believe prior to that they offered the synergy one. You might consider calling them. I'm not sure if they sell the bracket separately but it's what I got on my axle.


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QuicksilverJK said:
Dynatrac has a really beefy bracket w/ hydro tab on there newer PR44. I believe prior to that they offered the synergy one. You might consider calling them. I'm not sure if they sell the bracket separately but it's what I got on my axle.


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That won’t work the PR 44 is bigger diameter (3”?). Stick with the synergy. The way it welds together you can leave off the tabs for hydro until you’re ready to put it on. Or use it for the steering stabilizer.
 
zimm said:
Yup, what Eddie said.

Look at the synergy weld on bracket. It lets you add a hydro assist ram if you ever want to down the road. You can use that along with a flip drag link arm and actually save money vs. the bolt together "mess" the EVO kit is.
Click to expand...

LOL @ "mess". Without question, weld on is the way to go and if you were to get the EVO or AEV kit (basically the same), all you need to do is burn it on after it's installed. That being said, the Synergy kit is a great option too.
 
I half joke about the "mess", but I've installed 2 evo flips and those bolts are a PITA to get all in and tightened.
 
zimm said:
I half joke about the "mess", but I've installed 2 evo flips and those bolts are a PITA to get all in and tightened.
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Near impossible is what I'd say. It is the reason why I've personally seen more than one tear off on the trail too. Burning on brackets like these is the only way to go.
 
It’s actually pretty silly they are sold as “bolt on” options. Once installed it’s a real pain in the ass to keep an eye on it and torque. “Mess” would be an accurate description. lol
 
Reached out to a company versed in the steering world and they said I would only need a track bar bracket if I did a drag link flip...which is the plan. Do I need to increase my bump stops if I go with a flip?
 
MDK210 said:
Reached out to a company versed in the steering world and they said I would only need a track bar bracket if I did a drag link flip...which is the plan. Do I need to increase my bump stops if I go with a flip?
Click to expand...

I believe you need a minimum of 3” of bump stop with a flip kit


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I’m following this. I recently have begun to have death wobble issues after lifting (2.5 RK) Unsure at the time the exact cause, knowing it could be a bunch of things creating the perfect storm I ordered a bracket and new stabilizer since the axle mount looks puny and why not replace both. It helped tremendously, but still have had 2 episodes since, so ordered a new track bar. W/ all these is a drag link flip necessary to make them all work together?


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rl206 said:
I’m following this. I recently have begun to have death wobble issues after lifting (2.5 RK) Unsure at the time the exact cause, knowing it could be a bunch of things creating the perfect storm I ordered a bracket and new stabilizer since the axle mount looks puny and why not replace both. It helped tremendously, but still have had 2 episodes since, so ordered a new track bar. W/ all these is a drag link flip necessary to make them all work together?


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Click to expand...

From what I understand, a drag link flip isn’t necessary with 2.5” lift but I could be wrong. Also your new stabilizer will only help to mask your death wobble issue. I would start by checking track bar and ball joints. There’s a thread around here somewhere explaining death wobble and possible causes.


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-AINOKEA- said:
From what I understand, a drag link flip isn’t necessary with 2.5” lift but I could be wrong. Also your new stabilizer will only help to mask your death wobble issue. I would start by checking track bar and ball joints. There’s a thread around here somewhere explaining death wobble and possible causes.

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Most companies recommend a minimum of 3.5” lift before a drag flip comes into play. The reputable YouTube videos about the subject agree it’s the track bar more often than not but diagnosing the issue is easy to do on your own. As stated, a stabilizer more or less masks the issue which is why most guys run factory or a basic name brand.

As far as this thread, it’s more about correcting steering geometry not related to any death wobble or related issues. More about preventative maintenance which should be everyone’s goal.
 
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wayoflife said:
No. You don't "need" both. If you already have an adjustable track bar, that alone will help to recenter your axle. However, it will NOT correct your steering geometry. A track bar relocation bracket AND a drag link flip is what you will need for that.
Click to expand...
This does apply to the rear track bar correct? If i get a rear adjustable track bar i dont need the relocation bracket im assuming. I have one, relocation bracket , AEV 3" lift, but its interfering with the installation of a metalcloak rear diff skid plate. 2022 jt EcoDiesel.
 
ohio812 said:
This does apply to the rear track bar correct? If i get a rear adjustable track bar i dont need the relocation bracket im assuming. I have one, relocation bracket , AEV 3" lift, but its interfering with the installation of a metalcloak rear diff skid plate. 2022 jt EcoDiesel.
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Again, the relocation bracket exists to correct, as in fix the steeper angle of your track bar due to your lift. An adjustable track bar will ONLY help to recenter your axle and ONLY at ride height.

If it were me, I would choose a better ride over a skid that really isn't needed. But again, that's just me.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. Ill go with a metalcloak relocation bracket and swap out the AEV bracket so i can have my cake and eat it too. Really appreciate the quick turnaround and expert advice.
 
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