front driveshaft

brizon85 said:
Hey guys just wanted to say I finally got my new JE Reel front driveshaft installed. I must admit I don't do a lot of the work on my own jeep but I did the install myself and it went very smoothly. I am also highly impressed with the quality of the driveshaft and parts. Thanks Eddie for the recommendation!
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Good choice there solid, Ive got them for my rear shaft and Adams for my front and the Adams has got a lot of vertical play in slip yoke and I’ve had it at a driveline shop they said it’s within spec, but yeah no play in my rear JE reel.


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Those of you that have swapped driveshafts, did you torque the pinion nut the "right" way based on rotational torque or the easy way just torquing the nut to 150 or 160 ftlbs? Any leaking problems either way?

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jesse3638 said:
I did 160 and called it good. I know it's not the correct way but it has not give me any issues in 6 years.

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Thanks. I'll probably be doing a lift and driveshafts early next year barring a black swan event. The "right" way looks like a pain in the ass, so I've been thinking of doing it the way you did. I figure if it leaks too bad I'd take it in for a regear eventually. 6 years is good, congrats.

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rubiDave said:
Thanks. I'll probably be doing a lift and driveshafts early next year barring a black swan event. The "right" way looks like a pain in the ass, so I've been thinking of doing it the way you did. I figure if it leaks too bad I'd take it in for a regear eventually. 6 years is good, congrats.

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All you need to do is turn old pinion with torque wrench after removing old driveshaft it should take like 14-24 foot pounds to rotate what ever it is make sure it takes that many foot pounds to turn after installing need pinion


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I’m a weirdo about torque so I bought this to do it the correct way
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Put the axle on jack stands and take your tires off then turn the pinion with one of these, that is what your rotational torque is


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Technically it should be done with the axle shafts and carrier removed. The inertia from all the other parts rotating will skew the reading. Especially if tires are left on. But then again, many people just tighten until there is no more play in the yoke. So I guess it just depends on how scientific you wanna be.


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Speedy_RCW said:
Technically it should be done with the axle shafts and carrier removed. The inertia from all the other parts rotating will skew the reading. Especially if tires are left on. But then again, many people just tighten until there is no more play in the yoke. So I guess it just depends on how scientific you wanna be.


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Wow good info, I didn’t recall reading to take it that far apart


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Speedy_RCW said:
Technically it should be done with the axle shafts and carrier removed. The inertia from all the other parts rotating will skew the reading. Especially if tires are left on. But then again, many people just tighten until there is no more play in the yoke. So I guess it just depends on how scientific you wanna be.


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^^^ Yep, this is what I,ve read. Only seems worth it if you're regearing too.

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If I remember correctly the JE Reel instructions said to get a before reading them tighten the new yoke so that it's 5-10 inch lbs more than what it was beginning with the initial pinion nut torque of 145-150. There is an upper threshold that if you exceed it they recommend replacing the crush sleeve. I cannot remember what that is but 185-200 comes to mind. This being said if you leave the tires on or axle shafts in make sure to leave it the same when you retorque it and measure.

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