Front axle leak tell me what I need to do.

A PR44 set up to run the factory locker is machined so it uses the bearings for a factory locker, and OX makes a 35 spline locker to replace the factory locker, so that’s the solution. Any PR44 built to run 30 spline axles however, will have bushings installed for the smaller axles seals and those bushings will have to be removed to accommodate the seals for 35 spline shafts. It’s a major pain in the dick to remove them but I have made a tool specific to the job which made it pretty easy.


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Thanks for writing that out so I can go back a re-read.

So simply put same housing/pumpkin but bearings and seals are different and can be change but a pain in the dick. Got it.

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At some point someone will raise this, so let’s cut to the chase.


I do represent OX and I made a post which is against the rules - but...
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=41101


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Thank you. Maybe next time go straight to that instead of posting up that other shit. OX can suck it.

I know it's a lot to ask but would it really kill everyone to maybe explore options that actually SUPPORT this community that you're all a part of and get to learn from for free instead of shitting on it? Thanks.
 
I just want to say thank you in advance for all your guys help. I have learned a lot and I know I asked a ton of questions but now feel confident with the direction I am going to go. I'll report back once I make order. :thumb:
 
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I just want to say thank you in advance for all your guys help. I have learned a lot and I know I asked a ton of questions but now feel confident with the direction I am going to go. I'll report back once I make order. :thumb:

Glad to hear you've been able to get the help you needed here on WAYALIFE :thumb:
 
Ugh just clicked through and read that post by longarmwj that Eddie commented on . That didn’t age well. Some shit just can’t unread .

Just so it's clear, OX is the one who decided to come on here and behave like dicks. In spite of what so many seem to think, it costs money to run a forum like this and Cindy and I pay for it out of our pockets so that guys like you can use it for free. All we would ask of anyone is to please take that into consideration before promoting or recommending products that made by companies that YOU KNOW shit on us.
 
Can I get a ballpark figure of what I might be able to sell the stock complete front axle internals and shafts including the knuckles? It may have a slight bend/leak but its got to be worth something?
 
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Just so it's clear, OX is the one who decided to come on here and behave like dicks. In spite of what so many seem to think, it costs money to run a forum like this and Cindy and I pay for it out of our pockets so that guys like you can use it for free. All we would ask of anyone is to please take that into consideration before promoting or recommending products that made by companies that YOU KNOW shit on us.

I’m with you 100% on that.


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Can I get a ballpark figure of what I might be able to sell the stock complete front axle internals and shafts including the knuckles? It may have a slight bend/leak but its got to be worth something?

I got my front rubicon front axle minus shafts for $500. The guy took significantly less than his asking price though since it was still in his garage here in Indiana and he had already moved to Oregon, so he just needed it gone. I think he originally had it listed for $1200.
 
I got my front rubicon front axle minus shafts for $500. The guy took significantly less than his asking price though since it was still in his garage here in Indiana and he had already moved to Oregon, so he just needed it gone. I think he originally had it listed for $1200.
Hmmmm......

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Can I get a ballpark figure of what I might be able to sell the stock complete front axle internals and shafts including the knuckles? It may have a slight bend/leak but its got to be worth something?

I sold my complete front and rear 44 axle assemblies for 2k to a guy that was going to build a buggy out of them. Mine had a slight bend or leak, wasn’t sure which when I sold them and he didn’t care.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
I saw you are running Rancho knuckles, so are they stronger than stock knuckles?

I've had them on for over 3 years now with no issues. They're cast iron just like factory but they are thicker in many areas than the factory ones. The main benefits they offer is that they're already machined for a drag link flip and they also raise the tie rod up about an inch.

Here's a couple threads about them:

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/36661-New!!!!-High-steer-knuckles-for-your-JK!!!!

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/49238-Rancho-high-clearance-steering-knuckles-install-video
 
I've had them on for over 3 years now with no issues. They're cast iron just like factory but they are thicker in many areas than the factory ones. The main benefits they offer is that they're already machined for a drag link flip and they also raise the tie rod up about an inch.

Here's a couple threads about them:

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/36661-New!!!!-High-steer-knuckles-for-your-JK!!!!

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/49238-Rancho-high-clearance-steering-knuckles-install-video
Thank you, I did a search last night and found a few threads, but couldn't come to the conclusion if they were actually stronger.

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Thank you, I did a search last night and found a few threads, but couldn't come to the conclusion if they were actually stronger.

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I don’t recommend this. If you decide to add hydro assist it becomes increasingly difficult to fit the ram to the track bar mount. It can be done but it gets tricky. Just run the stock knuckles with a good tie rod and you’ll be fine.


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Thank you, I did a search last night and found a few threads, but couldn't come to the conclusion if they were actually stronger.

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I doubt they are stronger but they do move the tie rod up an inch and a half. I was skeptical that would be meaningful, but after running Ranchos for a year I actually think it does make a difference. That said, I only went with Ranchos after my OE knuckles failed. As Bubba said, fitting the ram mount gets tricky but it is possible if you can weld. IMG_0329.jpg


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I don’t recommend this. If you decide to add hydro assist it becomes increasingly difficult to fit the ram to the track bar mount. It can be done but it gets tricky. Just run the stock knuckles with a good tie rod and you’ll be fine.


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I doubt they are stronger but they do move the tie rod up an inch and a half. I was skeptical that would be meaningful, but after running Ranchos for a year I actually think it does make a difference. That said, I only went with Ranchos after my OE knuckles failed. As Bubba said, fitting the ram mount gets tricky but it is possible if you can weld. View attachment 341150


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Thanks and good info. I will report back soon with final build.

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Alright, pulled the trigger and just decided to do it right and do it once. Went with the PR44 unlimited conventional housing, ARB-RD147, 5.13 gears, pro steer joints, .50 thickness, and raised non tab track bar to accommodate for Rancho knuckles down the road.

Still need to order the Nitro 35 spline shafts. Now, just gotta sit and wait.

Thank you Bubba and all you guys who helped.
 
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