Flat Top
Member
oh yeah, had to deal with this crap as well this week.
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FlatTop Build
- Thread starter Flat Top
- Start date
Speedy_RCW
Hooked
Your rig is coming along nicely. Good work. I just pulled and straightened my EVO skid last week as well.
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Flat Top
Member
I also noticed this. I love my RK rear lower arms. [emoji12]
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Flat Top
Member
Weekend work.
Intermittent P0394 + Traction control light = new Cam position sensor. For $50 I ordered 2 but the drivers side looks like a complete PITA (pulling intake). The passenger side was the source of the CEL so we will start with it. Fairly easy install although the old sensor needs a little coaxing to remove.
I could pretty much generate the CEL at will last summer. I needed 85+ degree day plus ~ 15 minutes at 80 mph. We will see pretty soon if this was a fix.
After replacing my unit bearings a couple of weeks ago with the short ABS wire unit I've been trying to figure out a solution for the shortness. Even after outing inside the frame the lines still looked short so I decide to try to make some plug in extensions. It might be overkill but for $14 in new parts I figured it was worth a try. I still had my old ABS cable from the original bearings so I had half the extensions, all I needed to do was figure out the female connector. Interwebs search lead me to a potential plug - Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail. Amazon has them for $7 prime so it was worth a shot. Ordered a couple and sure enough they work perfect with the male end. The new plugs don't have the secondary red lock but the connection is still solid. Old male plus new female = new extension. Only odd thing was figuring out the color coding, 50% chance and I was initially wrong.
Original male black ---> new female red
Original male white ---> new female black
They ended up being ~13 inches long but only need to be about half that length. I wanted to err on the long side for now. Been running then for a few days w/out issue.
TLDNR
Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail Female + Old ABS male end = ABS extension for front.
Intermittent P0394 + Traction control light = new Cam position sensor. For $50 I ordered 2 but the drivers side looks like a complete PITA (pulling intake). The passenger side was the source of the CEL so we will start with it. Fairly easy install although the old sensor needs a little coaxing to remove.
I could pretty much generate the CEL at will last summer. I needed 85+ degree day plus ~ 15 minutes at 80 mph. We will see pretty soon if this was a fix.
After replacing my unit bearings a couple of weeks ago with the short ABS wire unit I've been trying to figure out a solution for the shortness. Even after outing inside the frame the lines still looked short so I decide to try to make some plug in extensions. It might be overkill but for $14 in new parts I figured it was worth a try. I still had my old ABS cable from the original bearings so I had half the extensions, all I needed to do was figure out the female connector. Interwebs search lead me to a potential plug - Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail. Amazon has them for $7 prime so it was worth a shot. Ordered a couple and sure enough they work perfect with the male end. The new plugs don't have the secondary red lock but the connection is still solid. Old male plus new female = new extension. Only odd thing was figuring out the color coding, 50% chance and I was initially wrong.
Original male black ---> new female red
Original male white ---> new female black
They ended up being ~13 inches long but only need to be about half that length. I wanted to err on the long side for now. Been running then for a few days w/out issue.
TLDNR
Standard Motor Products S824 Pigtail Female + Old ABS male end = ABS extension for front.
Last edited:
tdougherty81
New member
Nice job!
This reminds me I need to fix the rear locker plug before this weekend. Not sure when I broke or how but noticed when I was doing the rear coilovers.
Exodus 4x4
New member
Flat Top
Member
Another fantastic trip to Wolf Caves (4-6 to 4-8) resulted in carnage and annoying / lingering issues.
A Rock and an Off Camber place =
Poser pic with no idea of the fun ahead.
Rock on the right, of camber to the left...
Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.
Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.
During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).
Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and now has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.
Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.
The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.
Weekend work:
Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.
After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads but I still need to address the root cause.
Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.
Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.
$120 for a new EVAP Canister?
Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. :crazyeyes: Just Empty Every Pocket... :gaah:
Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?:naw:
A Rock and an Off Camber place =
Poser pic with no idea of the fun ahead.
Rock on the right, of camber to the left...
Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.
Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.
During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).
Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and now has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.
Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.
The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.
Weekend work:
Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.
After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads but I still need to address the root cause.
Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.
Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.
$120 for a new EVAP Canister?
Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. :crazyeyes: Just Empty Every Pocket... :gaah:
Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?:naw:
Last edited:
Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Goddam Tom! We all need a break from Wolf Caves it seems lol
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tdougherty81
New member
Another fantastic trip to Wolf Caves (4-6 to 4-8) resulted in carnage and annoying / lingering issues.
A Rock and an Off Camber place =
Poser pic with no idea of the fun ahead.
View attachment 299401
Rock on the right, of camber to the left...
View attachment 299404
View attachment 299402
View attachment 299403
Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.
Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.
During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).
Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and not has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.
Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.
The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.
Weekend work:
Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.
After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads.
Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.
Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.
$120 for a new EVAP Canister?
Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. :crazyeyes: Just Empty Every Pocket... :gaah:
Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?:naw:
Dang Tom! I actually came out pretty unscathed this time.
I agree.
DWiggles
Caught the Bug
Another fantastic trip to Wolf Caves (4-6 to 4-8) resulted in carnage and annoying / lingering issues.
Actually less damage than I expected, the B-Pillar needs a little work before I cover with EVO skins but I'm not sure what to do yet with the rear panel. The EVO aluminum skids did their job mostly, except for the top tab being torn off. I guess that's expected since these were the aluminum skins.
Doing a check of the Jeep before leaving Wolf Caves I noticed my knuckle side drag link TRE was SHOT. The cotter pin was gone and the nut was half way backed off but seemed to be locked into place. I had quite a bit of play in the steering but was able to drive the 30 minutes to Llano to an auto parts that had a replacement. Swapped in a new one and safely on the way home.
During the check also noticed my stock evap skid had taken a pretty good hit and was bent out of shape (preview of coming fun).
Last week's commute to work resulted in lots of bump steer that started to lead to death wobble around 45-50. Determined the drag link flip insert was pretty worn so I've order a new one to be delivered this week. The pitman side TRE on the drag link also looks like it made contact with the trackbar (torn boot and grease on the trackbar) and now has slight pop/movement so I'll replace it as well.
Thursday I was greeted with a MIL light when I got to work. P1504, P0304, P0441, P0445 and P0456 all Pending Faults.
The P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire will need to wait but all the others pointed to an EVAP canister leak.
Weekend work:
Inspected drag link, ordered new TRE for the pitman side. Rotated knuckle insert to try to get a better fit.
After getting the correct steering stabilizer bracket I remounted the SS. It helps with the bump steer/ DW and the over crappy Houston roads but I still need to address the root cause.
Rotate tires, they have gotten a off balance with the trips this year. Definitely help smooth things out and delay a trip to DT for balancing.
Pulled the evap canister to straighten the bracket (I hesitate to label it a "skid"). Found a crack in the canister around one of the hose connections. I tried to superglue / RTV the crack but not looking good. After re attaching and a couple ignition cycles I still have the code.
$120 for a new EVAP Canister?
Oh well, another $200+ bucks for a new EVAP canister and a new skid to protect it. I also broke the retention clips on the vent hoses. :crazyeyes: Just Empty Every Pocket... :gaah:
Once I get rid of the EVAP code I'll address the Cylinder 4 misfire.. New Head in my future?:naw:
That's quite the list! But nothing some beers and a few days in the garage cant fix up. :thumb:
Flat Top
Member
It's become my favorite park but just DAMN!
I'd be happy with that next time.
Right! The wife is out of town this weekend so no Honey-Do's to get in the way.
Flat Top
Member
A little bit of work this past weekend:
Transmission
With 99300 miles I have neglected the auto transmission so after some hard shifting issues I decided to change the transmission fluid. After pulling the EVO Protek skids I tried to drop the trans pan with the exhaust crossover in place, BIG MISTAKE! After washing the fluid off my face (the tranny is slanted towards the back of the Jeep) I decided to loosen the exhaust bolts. With a little WD40 they came off surprisingly easy and the entire crossover easily pivoted out of the way and allowed for an clear filter / fluid change. There was a pretty thick layer of fine sludge on the magnet but nothing of major concern. Swapped the filter and buttoned it back up then added 3 quarts worth of ATF+4 back to the transmission. I'm leaving the ProTek skids off for now to make sure all is OK.
So far with a couple of short trip and one round trip work commute the hard shift problem has stopped. The other problem I think might be related is the P0349 Camshaft sensor code I get (93+ degree days running 75-80 mph for 15 mins). I've replace the sensor already but now that the temps are up limp mode is back occasionally.
Bling
There are already enough threads on these but the only install tip I have is if you have a black battery,PULL IT! I was slowly grinding away at the battery case before I realized exactly what it was. Hopefully I stopped before I weakened the case bottom. :crazyeyes:
Still adjusting and waiting for the shocks to settle in. The initial timing ring setting in the front now need to be moved down another 2 inches (almost to the bottom of the threads). The only clearance issue so far in my FANTASTIC MidArm RK rear lowers have the upper track bar bolt contacting the passenger rear bump stop. Looks like I can shave the bolt and possibly mive the bump stop forward a bit.
Transmission
With 99300 miles I have neglected the auto transmission so after some hard shifting issues I decided to change the transmission fluid. After pulling the EVO Protek skids I tried to drop the trans pan with the exhaust crossover in place, BIG MISTAKE! After washing the fluid off my face (the tranny is slanted towards the back of the Jeep) I decided to loosen the exhaust bolts. With a little WD40 they came off surprisingly easy and the entire crossover easily pivoted out of the way and allowed for an clear filter / fluid change. There was a pretty thick layer of fine sludge on the magnet but nothing of major concern. Swapped the filter and buttoned it back up then added 3 quarts worth of ATF+4 back to the transmission. I'm leaving the ProTek skids off for now to make sure all is OK.
So far with a couple of short trip and one round trip work commute the hard shift problem has stopped. The other problem I think might be related is the P0349 Camshaft sensor code I get (93+ degree days running 75-80 mph for 15 mins). I've replace the sensor already but now that the temps are up limp mode is back occasionally.
Bling
There are already enough threads on these but the only install tip I have is if you have a black battery,PULL IT! I was slowly grinding away at the battery case before I realized exactly what it was. Hopefully I stopped before I weakened the case bottom. :crazyeyes:
Still adjusting and waiting for the shocks to settle in. The initial timing ring setting in the front now need to be moved down another 2 inches (almost to the bottom of the threads). The only clearance issue so far in my FANTASTIC MidArm RK rear lowers have the upper track bar bolt contacting the passenger rear bump stop. Looks like I can shave the bolt and possibly mive the bump stop forward a bit.
DWiggles
Caught the Bug
Flip the bolt around. :thumb:
Flat Top
Member
Duh! Thanks for the suggestion.
Stotch
Caught the Bug
Welcome to the club!!
CapnMericaMyCopilot
Member
Having trouble orienting myself with your pics but I had managed to flip one of the rear bump stops the wrong way and had same issue on passenger side with a bolt. Maybe check that before any grinding
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