Fan replacement 3.6

Ok sorry for the delay....kids , work, blah blah

Black to red- 12-14 depend on running or not

Black to signal -0

The signal wire does not produce a voltage until is loaded

I proved this by running without fan til about 215 degrees then plugging back in , fan kicked right on
 
Wanna hear something funny, just took her out this am and the MIL light went off with the fan codes lol...I didn't run her after the test

Reset and all good...👍
 
JohnnyD said:
Wanna hear something funny, just took her out this am and the MIL light went off with the fan codes lol...I didn't run her after the test

Reset and all good...
Click to expand...

Lucky you. I figured something has to be tripping the signal wire since it is getting voltage all the time when testing a positive and using the signal wire as a ground. Ive already been through everything so I guess Ill have to take it in. Maybe it is something somewhere I cant see.
 
Check the wires with the engine cold, if didn't already. If your engine is hot the computer will be calling for the fan. I would also jumper 12v to the fan to see if it is actually bad.
 
So I went to the mechanic and he quickly read it and when doing so the fan turned on briefly. I drove home ran the ac and it turned on high briefly but then shut off and over heated. Now it isn't come on at all again. Any ideas? All connections seem tight
 
I was able to resolve the issue. I figured the signal wire getting 12v all the time meant the system was self checking the fan and it wasn't sending a signal back. I replaced the fan with a factory fan I got online because I wanted to make sure it would clear the engine code. I installed the fan and cleared the codes. So far the engine light hasn't come on again and also the fan turns on with no over heating issues.
 
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