FAD Delete

B

BruceyZ06

Member
Thinking about deleting my FAD when I do the RCV front axles. Have any of you used the Taser to delete the FAD and does it work with keeping the light off?
 
There's a video around here somewhere where @wayoflife tried to get rid of the dash light, after an axle swap, with his Taser and it took a few tries and a software update I believe.
 
Your best bet, call or email Z Automotive, from what I understand it's a repetitive procedure and easy to screw up.

Since I tagged him in my first response E.O. will at least look in and probably answer your question.
 
wayoflife said:
Been spending a lot of time following social media whores I see LOL

Yes, you can use the Tazer to turn off the FAD light.
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I have been lol!! I was starting to think it wasn’t going to work with my factory axle. Glad to hear no warning lights will be on.

now if one upgrades his front axle. What do you have to do to the taser to get no warning lights? IE lockers no FAD? I assumed wire lockers to switch pros.
 
BruceyZ06 said:
I have been lol!! I was starting to think it wasn’t going to work with my factory axle. Glad to hear no warning lights will be on.

now if one upgrades his front axle. What do you have to do to the taser to get no warning lights? IE lockers no FAD? I assumed wire lockers to switch pros.
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The problem I had was that I was running an ARB up front but still had the factory rear locker installed and wanted to make it work with the factory switch. I THINK this is something that has been fixed but back then, you couldn't do this without the warning light still coming on. I eventually just moved the rear locker switch to one of the aux switches and was able to turn everything off.

That said, I might reconsider what the whores are telling you to spend money on. From personal experience, I can tell you that what they're selling you, really isn't needed. But hey, that's just me - a guy who's not trying to sell you shit.
 
wayoflife said:
The problem I had was that I was running an ARB up front but still had the factory rear locker installed and wanted to make it work with the factory switch. I THINK this is something that has been fixed but back then, you couldn't do this without the warning light still coming on. I eventually just moved the rear locker switch to one of the aux switches and was able to turn everything off.

That said, I might reconsider what the whores are telling you to spend money on. From personal experience, I can tell you that what they're selling you, really isn't needed. But hey, that's just me - a guy who's not trying to sell you shit.
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Makes total sense on selling stuff to feed their pockets lol.

Thank you for the clarification on the FAD light. Eddie what are your true thoughts about deleting the FAD?
 
BruceyZ06 said:
Makes total sense on selling stuff to feed their pockets lol.

Thank you for the clarification on the FAD light. Eddie what are your true thoughts about deleting the FAD?
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Obviously, I've done it and did it early on but can tell you that over the years, I really haven't seen a real need for it or at least, for a VAST MAJORITY of people. Yes, I have personally seen one break at the housing but then, it was on EVO's JL and Mel literally drove it (accidentally) off the side of the road and into a big boulder at about 40 MPH. Essentially, it was a car wreck. This is NOT something most people would do even in the most extreme off roading situations.

What I really LIKE about FAD is that you can run a lot more caster and without causing drive line vibrations and to me, that's a great thing especially on a Jeep that tends to feel flighty to most people.
 
My stock axle shafts held up to 3.5 rubicon trips, fordyce, a week in Moab and some local trips. It’s also my daily driver and it snapped at about 30K….

I’d bet they would still be in there if I would have used a brain, there was no damn way I was getting out without a tug but tried anyways.
 
A side benefit to the FAD is you can install a simple Aussie or Torq locker in the front and as long as you are in 2WD there is no action on the front so none of that nasty clicking or popping. You get the MPG benefit of the FAD, and No issues turning, or such. But drop your rig into 4WD and you have extra traction in the front from the locker.

The disadvantage is that you may have problems in the snow with a torq locker in front. The folks who have them say it's not a problem.

Whereas if you install a helical or clutch based LSD in the front it has enough bias to bind up the FAD all the time so you don't get the MPG benefits.
 
jimcoffey62 said:
A side benefit to the FAD is you can install a simple Aussie or Torq locker in the front and as long as you are in 2WD there is no action on the front so none of that nasty clicking or popping. You get the MPG benefit of the FAD, and No issues turning, or such. But drop your rig into 4WD and you have extra traction in the front from the locker.

The disadvantage is that you may have problems in the snow with a torq locker in front. The folks who have them say it's not a problem.

Whereas if you install a helical or clutch based LSD in the front it has enough bias to bind up the FAD all the time so you don't get the MPG benefits.
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Welcome back.
 
jimcoffey62 said:
A side benefit to the FAD is you can install a simple Aussie or Torq locker in the front and as long as you are in 2WD there is no action on the front so none of that nasty clicking or popping. You get the MPG benefit of the FAD, and No issues turning, or such. But drop your rig into 4WD and you have extra traction in the front from the locker.

The disadvantage is that you may have problems in the snow with a torq locker in front. The folks who have them say it's not a problem.

Whereas if you install a helical or clutch based LSD in the front it has enough bias to bind up the FAD all the time so you don't get the MPG benefits.
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Thanks. Ive been stressed about that.
 
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