EVO drag link bend

olram30 said:
Nah, you need a minimum of 3" bump stops to run a drag link flip. Install error.
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That's exactly what I was thinking and she was told to get bump extensions and never did smh she also doesn't run front sway bar links at all ever !! Lol


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
 
Kinda stupid to install parts wrong, break shit. Then post a picture in Facebook, "evo fail".
 
mrmet1983 said:
That's exactly what I was thinking and she was told to get bump extensions and never did smh she also doesn't run front sway bar links at all ever !! Lol


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
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So she hit the frame and bent it out? Awesome !!
 
olram30 said:
Kinda stupid to install parts wrong, break shit. Then post a picture in Facebook, "evo fail".
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I totally agree that's why I was all over that post cuz shit does break but when u install somethung completely wrong then have the nerve to say Product fail u deserve a slap in the mouth


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
 
Napalm90 said:
so this was just put up on my local jeep group FB page. Happend when the driver was driving up an flex ramp. Now I could be wrong but I don't think the link is the problem, something else must have been wrong to cause that much pressure I the drag link for it to bend like that. She has also had this same issue with te factory drag link... Also isn't the EVO drag link just a factory rhd drag link? I know lots of you have this installed and wheel 10 times harder than we do out east and never had this problem....
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I still run both the factory track bar and drag link on Rubicat and have had zero problems with them. Also, I still run a factory track bar on Moby pushing 40's and on a ProRock 60 - zero problems. Of course, I'm just a mall crawler.
 
wayoflife said:
I still run both the factory track bar and drag link on Rubicat and have had zero problems with them. Also, I still run a factory track bar on Moby pushing 40's and on a ProRock 60 - zero problems. Of course, I'm just a mall crawler.
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ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1403630417.303262.jpg
^clearly your a mall crawler.(screen grab from carnage canyon) I knew it couldn't of been the link as most if the people on the page were suggesting. Now my question is what would actually cause this? If it was that she had te wrong bump stops installed and it was indeed hitting the frame I don't think it would bend outwards like that. But bend upwards... I'm just trying to help a lady out here and it is not her the was bashing EVO it was actually the guy that started the whole group. He's a rebel fan boy.
 
So lets just high jack this for a min...
So Eddie ur saying that if someone gets 3" evo springs and (insert whatever brand) shocks, they wouldn't have to replace EVERYTHING else to aftermarket as well? I would assume upper and lower control arms to be adjustable is necessary?

I'm just trying to get the best ride both on and off. I drive approx 60miles a day for work, then the weekend trails and mud.
So far I'm pretty much stock, but don't want to stay that way.
But I don't want to go broke... so no coilovers, or DTD, or anything crazy like that. Still learning so any advice, help, or a direction is appreciated! :)

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Jeep_Dawg08 said:
So lets just high jack this for a min...
So Eddie ur saying that if someone gets 3" evo springs and (insert whatever brand) shocks, they wouldn't have to replace EVERYTHING else to aftermarket as well? I would assume upper and lower control arms to be adjustable is necessary?

I'm just trying to get the best ride both on and off. I drive approx 60miles a day for work, then the weekend trails and mud.
So far I'm pretty much stock, but don't want to stay that way.
But I don't want to go broke... so no coilovers, or DTD, or anything crazy like that. Still learning so any advice, help, or a direction is appreciated! :)

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With 3" springs , just lca to correct caster, if using a drag link flip, you need 3" bump stops. And you can use factory track bar.
If no drag link flip, you use factory drag link and an adjustable track bar to center your axle. Then you could run a 2" bump stop for another inch of up travel. That's if your coils don't over compress. 3" is best to be on the safe side. And bump stop size also depends on tire size and if your running flat or factory fenders. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you
 
olram30 said:
With 3" springs , just lca to correct caster, if using a drag link flip, you need 3" bump stops. And you can use factory track bar.
If no drag link flip, you use factory drag link and an adjustable track bar to center your axle. Then you could run a 2" bump stop for another inch of up travel. That's if your coils don't over compress. 3" is best to be on the safe side. And bump stop size also depends on tire size and if your running flat or factory fenders. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you
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And with a JKU, you would only need front lower control arms. No need to replace the rear arms (upper or lower).
 
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Sharkey said:
And with a JKU, you would only need front lower control arms. No need to replace the rear arms (upper or lower).
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Yes, I've noticed a lot of kits out there, like rk and others don't provide bump stops. Because there are too many tire variances and flat or factory fenders. The factory arms are actually nice in absorbing road noise and can handle a 10" travel shock.
 
wayoflife said:
I still run both the factory track bar and drag link on Rubicat and have had zero problems with them. Also, I still run a factory track bar on Moby pushing 40's and on a ProRock 60 - zero problems. Of course, I'm just a mall crawler.
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I love when u do this lol


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
 
I have a 4" Evo Double D kit with bump stops installed and I'm sure my bump stops are the problem but it'll probably get resolved fast enough. (bump stops that came with the kit my vendor is currently talking about it with Evo mfg) and my track bar is hitting the pitt man arm drag link TRE bolt and the drag link is also hitting the frame on passenger side, not complaining.. just relaying info...

P.S: Evo MFG has Great customer service... I had a semi major problem that happened to me on a trail (cost me my weekend) and it was totally their fault and they fixed it no problem. I wont go into details or post pics because I gave Drew my word I wouldn't post pictures on Media sites..(seeing as it was totally human error... and I'm the type of person that can deal with that stuff without plastering it all over) but I sent him an E-mail and got a phone call, seriously less than 2 mins later asking for my address so they can ship me another part.

Sorry if I went off topic a little bit.
 
Jeep_Dawg08 said:
So lets just high jack this for a min...
So Eddie ur saying that if someone gets 3" evo springs and (insert whatever brand) shocks, they wouldn't have to replace EVERYTHING else to aftermarket as well? I would assume upper and lower control arms to be adjustable is necessary?

I'm just trying to get the best ride both on and off. I drive approx 60miles a day for work, then the weekend trails and mud.
So far I'm pretty much stock, but don't want to stay that way.
But I don't want to go broke... so no coilovers, or DTD, or anything crazy like that. Still learning so any advice, help, or a direction is appreciated! :)

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I have the EVO bolt on coilover kit and the only thing I changed was the front LCAs to adjust my pinion angle. Have been running stock control arms rest of the way around as well as factory drag link and trackbar.
 
Shit talking

Napalm90 said:
View attachment 88843so this was just put up on my local jeep group FB page. Happend when the driver was driving up an flex ramp. Now I could be wrong but I don't think the link is the problem, something else must have been wrong to cause that much pressure I the drag link for it to bend like that. She has also had this same issue with te factory drag link... Also isn't the EVO drag link just a factory rhd drag link? I know lots of you have this installed and wheel 10 times harder than we do out east and never had this problem....
Click to expand...


There is no doubt in my mind that there is something seriously wrong with her jeep in order to cause that type of failure. I work for a manufacturer of replacement parts for european automobiles. A few months ago we had a complaint of a failed control arm. The kid (24) forgot to mention that he lowered his car, and hit a pot hole so hard that he broke his (aluminum) oil pan. He posted pics on twitter of our failed part, and it had the company logo. We discovered his car had been lowered by looking at other photos he posted, including the busted oil pan from the same accident.
 
BlackRubiJKU said:
There is no doubt in my mind that there is something seriously wrong with her jeep in order to cause that type of failure. I work for a manufacturer of replacement parts for european automobiles. A few months ago we had a complaint of a failed control arm. The kid (24) forgot to mention that he lowered his car, and hit a pot hole so hard that he broke his (aluminum) oil pan. He posted pics on twitter of our failed part, and it had the company logo. We discovered his car had been lowered by looking at other photos he posted, including the busted oil pan from the same accident.
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Something is definitely amiss because tons of you guys run this DL without issue, and wheel them hard. It must have been shear idiotic driving on her part, but how you manage it on a ramp is a mystery.

I don't think frame contact is the culprit though based on the fact that I've never seen someone drive up the ramp on the passenger side, which is the only way the DL would have made contact. If she did ramp it on the passenger where visibility is null (her first mistake) than I'd have to say that it would be the cause indefinitely
 
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