Eaton Locker or ARB Locker

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BruceyZ06

Member
So, I'm eventually going to upgrade my axels. I'm either going to go with the new currie 60/60 combo 5 lug I know it's not 8 lugs but I don't wheel a lot more overland. Or I'm thinking of going with a Dynatrack PR 44/60 combo for the time begin and I'll upgrade the PR44 to a 60 so I can put the PR44 in my JL. Back to lockers.... I've heard okay things about the eaton e lockers? Do they fail a lot? Should I go with e locker front and ARB air locker in the rear? I know I'll catch hate for my thinking but I'm curious on what your thoughts on lockers are?

I'm doing things smart since I have so many other expensive hobbies...bikes, Z06's, and watches (face palm)

Thanks!
 
Let's see... You "don't wheel a lot more overland" but somehow, you think you need to spend over $10k on axles that you really really don't and won't ever need. Also, assuming you're talking about a JK, you do know that the JL has wider axles, right? And that the Rubicon JL has even wider ones, right? As in, whatever you were to get for your JK, you will be able to bolt it up to your JL but it would be narrower.

That said, ARB's are good and strong lockers. Up until recently, they are all I would run but they do come with the potential of leaks and internal ones can be a real pain. E-lockers can have lots of issues as well especially with the dog clutch but recently, I've been giving them a chance again and now, I find that I like them, or at least, in my UD60's. Factory seems to be way better than the JK e-lockers too.
 
Vehicle is my Gladiator Rubicon. It currently sits on 38's. I do off-road, however light Moab trails nothing insane where I push my rig to the limits. Sure I don't need axels but why not? I don't also need a 880rwhp Z06 but I still have one lol. I also don't need a Ducati but I still have one. Not trying to sound like an ass please don't take it that way. But If I want more peace of mind with larger axels, it'll make me feel better hahah.

I was thinking of running E locker up front and Air in the rear? I don't know if that's the smartest or E lockers on both? I just don't want my lockers to take a shit on me on the trail. I'll be doing all the installs myself, since I run a shop, labor cost won't be an issue either.
 
I’ve been running E-Lockers for going on three years in the Dynatrac 60’s no issues. If your dead set on axles look at the UD’s or Fusion. Rumor has it Dynatrac sold out to Yukon and the quality ain’t what it once was. For mild to moderate off road I don’t see the need. the factory 44’s should work fine.
 
BruceyZ06 said:
Vehicle is my Gladiator Rubicon. It currently sits on 38's. I do off-road, however light Moab trails nothing insane where I push my rig to the limits. Sure I don't need axels but why not? I don't also need a 880rwhp Z06 but I still have one lol. I also don't need a Ducati but I still have one. Not trying to sound like an ass please don't take it that way. But If I want more peace of mind with larger axels, it'll make me feel better hahah.

I was thinking of running E locker up front and Air in the rear? I don't know if that's the smartest or E lockers on both? I just don't want my lockers to take a shit on me on the trail. I'll be doing all the installs myself, since I run a shop, labor cost won't be an issue either.
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LOL - couldn't give a shit even if you were being an ass. Your money, your Jeep and you should always do what you want with both. Me, I was just trying to be helpful and based on my limited experience with this Jeep stuff (y)

As far as lockers go, if you're gonna go through the trouble of installing a compressor to run an ARB, you might as well run the same lockers in both axles. That said, you're kidding yourself if you really think that there isn't a chance that either won't take a shit on you on the trail. EVERYTHING breaks, even on a 60 or an 80 or with some fancy locker and, from my limited experience, I can tell you that I have personally seen it all and on my Jeeps.
 
JT@623 said:
I’ve been running E-Lockers for going on three years in the Dynatrac 60’s no issues. If your dead set on axles look at the UD’s or Fusion. Rumor has it Dynatrac sold out to Yukon and the quality ain’t what it once was. For mild to moderate off road I don’t see the need. the factory 44’s should work fine.
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It's no rumor. They've been owned by Randy's World Wide for a while now.
 
JT@623 said:
I’ve been running E-Lockers for going on three years in the Dynatrac 60’s no issues. If your dead set on axles look at the UD’s or Fusion. Rumor has it Dynatrac sold out to Yukon and the quality ain’t what it once was. For mild to moderate off road I don’t see the need. the factory 44’s should work fine.
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I really thought OE axle with upgraded shafts would be fine for my 38s but sometimes I want big big axels.

also, I believe the stocks axels should last awhile I would think. But I'm no expert by no means.
 
BruceyZ06 said:
I really thought OE axle with upgraded shafts would be fine for my 38s but sometimes I want big big axels.

also, I believe the stocks axels should last awhile I would think. But I'm no expert by no means.
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Unlike the JK before, the JL front axle is a lot beefier. With upgraded shafts and full circle clips, they should hold up well with 38's especially for how you're using your Jeep but then, it sounds like you've got money burning a hole in your pocket 😁
 
wayoflife said:
LOL - couldn't give a shit even if you were being an ass. Your money, your Jeep and you should always do what you want with both. Me, I was just trying to be helpful and based on my limited experience with this Jeep stuff (y)

As far as lockers go, if you're gonna go through the trouble of installing a compressor to run an ARB, you might as well run the same lockers in both axles. That said, you're kidding yourself if you really think that there isn't a chance that either won't take a shit on you on the trail. EVERYTHING breaks, even on a 60 or an 80 or with some fancy locker and, from my limited experience, I can tell you that I have personally seen it all and even on my Jeeps.
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I know EVERYTHING breaks. This is t my first time playing with cars. I’ve blown up many transmissions and motors unfortunately. Even quite forged and built motors.

I do respect your knowledge that’s why I come here and ask for everyone’s opinions. I never claimed to know everything. I already have an ARB compressor. That’s why I thought of running either or.
What’s everyone’s thoughts on the Currie “60” 5 lug axels?
 
wayoflife said:
Unlike the JK before, the JL front axle is a lot beefier. With upgraded shafts and full circle clips, they should hold up well with 38's especially for how you're using your Jeep but then, it sounds like you've got money burning a hole in your pocket 😁
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I kinda do. Honestly, I sold two vehicles so I’m like maybe it’s time to upgrade axels hahahahaha!! I feel dumb for asking. What u joints would work in the front axle shafts? On the JL/JT
 
wayoflife said:
Unlike the JK before, the JL front axle is a lot beefier. With upgraded shafts and full circle clips, they should hold up well with 38's especially for how you're using your Jeep but then, it sounds like you've got money burning a hole in your pocket 😁
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I went with 38s after I saw your 392 on KMCs. I had to copy the wheel and tire set up 😃I just went with the trail grappler instead on the RG nitto.
 
BruceyZ06 said:
So, I'm eventually going to upgrade my axels. I'm either going to go with the new currie 60/60 combo 5 lug I know it's not 8 lugs but I don't wheel a lot more overland. Or I'm thinking of going with a Dynatrack PR 44/60 combo for the time begin and I'll upgrade the PR44 to a 60 so I can put the PR44 in my JL. Back to lockers.... I've heard okay things about the eaton e lockers? Do they fail a lot? Should I go with e locker front and ARB air locker in the rear? I know I'll catch hate for my thinking but I'm curious on what your thoughts on lockers are?

I'm doing things smart since I have so many other expensive hobbies...bikes, Z06's, and watches (face palm)

Thanks!
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Where are some of the overlanding locations that you're doing that are requiring the axle/locker modifications that you are planning?
 
BruceyZ06 said:
I know EVERYTHING breaks. This is t my first time playing with cars. I’ve blown up many transmissions and motors unfortunately. Even quite forged and built motors.

I do respect your knowledge that’s why I come here and ask for everyone’s opinions. I never claimed to know everything. I already have an ARB compressor. That’s why I thought of running either or.
What’s everyone’s thoughts on the Currie “60” 5 lug axels?
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I could be wrong but I'm getting the vibe that I might be stepping on some toes here and if that's the case, please note that I never thought or suggested this was your first rodeo. Again, just trying to help where I can (y)

Currie makes good axles and I wouldn't hesitate to run them on my Jeeps. That said, if you do go 60/60, you really would be doing yourself a disservice not getting them with 8 lug. If you go 44/60, that would make sense. The only other thing I would recommend is that you get the rear axle of whatever brand you chose in a low pinion. I have seen nothing but problems with high pinion rears.

IF you insist on 5 lug, try to get them in a 9/16" racing stud at the very least.
 
I’ve done Moab quite a few times I swear you guys fixate on one word. Yes I overland and wheel. Can’t a guy do a little bit of both? Lol. I do enjoy my rock crawling and then I enjoy going camping / overhanging with my buddies that don’t rock crawl.
 
BruceyZ06 said:
I kinda do. Honestly, I sold two vehicles so I’m like maybe it’s time to upgrade axels hahahahaha!! I feel dumb for asking. What u joints would work in the front axle shafts? On the JL/JT
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The Spicer u-joints that come on the JL shafts should be fine.
 
wayoflife said:
I could be wrong but I'm getting the vibe that I might be stepping on some toes here and if that's the case, please note that I never thought or suggested this was your first rodeo. Again, just trying to help where I can (y)

Currie makes good axles and I wouldn't hesitate to run them on my Jeeps. That said, if you do go 60/60, you really would be doing yourself a disservice not getting them with 8 lug. If you go 44/60, that would make sense. The only other thing I would recommend is that you get the rear axle of whatever brand you chose in a low pinion. I have seen nothing but problems with high pinion rears.

IF you insist on 5 lug, try to get them in a 9/16" racing stud at the very least.
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Oh no not at all Eddie. No stepping on toes at all. I don’t take it that way at all ma man. I truly appreciate the feedback.

ok that makes sense. Low pinon it is! I guess that makes sense going with a 60/60 5 lug. Do you think 60/60 5 lug is that bad of an idea? I’m sure same cost I probably could go 8 lug.
Any advantages of going 44/60? Sorry I always assumed the front axle would break faster than the rear? Or Am I just making this up lol.
 
BruceyZ06 said:
Oh no not at all Eddie. No stepping on toes at all. I don’t take it that way at all ma man. I truly appreciate the feedback.

ok that makes sense. Low pinon it is! I guess that makes sense going with a 60/60 5 lug. Do you think 60/60 5 lug is that bad of an idea? I’m sure same cost I probably could go 8 lug.
Any advantages of going 44/60? Sorry I always assumed the front axle would break faster than the rear? Or Am I just making this up lol.
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Well, being that you're the kind of guy that likes to buy and sell vehicles and make all kinds of upgrades (and there's nothing wrong with that), very few guys who really wheel their Jeep will want to buy a used 60 with 5-lug. If nothing else, 8-lug will make it more marketable in the future, should you decided to make changes. Of course, this is to say nothing about strength. AND, along those lines, IF you're gonna get a 60/60, you really should do yourself a favor and not only get a low pinion rear but also, a full floater. Semi-floats will bend or break at the flange just like factory. This is something that's happened to me and in Moab and on a 60. I would never recommend semi-float.

The advantage of a 44/60 is that the 44 will be lighter, have more ground clearance and have a tighter turning circle. Front axles can break at the joints with a moron behind the wheel who likes to give a lot of skinny pedal. I assume this is not you. Rear shafts will bend at the flange but then, you can still get home just fine with that. This is of course to say nothing about all the other internals but then, it really depends on how you drive.
 
wayoflife said:
Well, being that you're the kind of guy that likes to buy and sell vehicles and make all kinds of upgrades (and there's nothing wrong with that), very few guys who really wheel their Jeep will want to buy a used 60 with 5-lug. If nothing else, 8-lug will make it more marketable in the future, should you decided to make changes. Of course, this is to say nothing about strength. AND, along those lines, IF you're gonna get a 60/60, you really should do yourself a favor and not only get a low pinion rear but also, a full floater. Semi-floats will bend or break at the flange just like factory. This is something that's happened to me and in Moab and on a 60. I would never recommend semi-float.

The advantage of a 44/60 is that the 44 will be lighter, have more ground clearance and have a tighter turning circle. Front axles can break at the joints with a moron behind the wheel who likes to give a lot of skinny pedal. I assume this is not you. Rear shafts will bend at the flange but then, you can still get home just fine with that. This is of course to say nothing about all the other internals but then, it really depends on how you drive.
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You hit the head on the nail my friend. I do like to buy and modify vehicles. It’s a bad addiction hahaha. But, makes total sense about the 5 lug 60/60.

The 44/60 combo makes sense to. You’re right again, I don’t slam the skinny pedal. If I have to I’ll use to lockers to save life on my axels. I figure if I have lockers why not use them lol.

Very thoughtful insights there and in appreciate the real world factors into the feedback. Can’t go wrong with that 🙌🏻 Thank you!!
 
BruceyZ06 said:
By chance if I wanted to carry spare u joints. Do you have the part number off the top of your head? Thanks!!
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The biggest cause of front axle shaft breaks is caused by bearing caps that come free. This is caused by the yokes wollowing out and the c-clips popping off as the cap spins in them. Once off, the trunion will tear through the yoke and often times, takes out the ball joints too. If you really let your u-joints and shafts get to this point, spare joints won't be of much help to you. The best thing you can do to prevent this is to upgrade to chromoly shafts with full circle clips AND, maintain your Jeep.
 
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