Dynatrac Trail leader package

tgoss said:
Brilliant move dude. You aren't not going to regret that decision I promise you. And who knows what products will be available at the time you purchase those... When I did my PR44 and PR60 semi float a year ago it was effectively the same price as the hardcore package I just bought. And to think if I could have just waited a year I would be swinging a XD60/PR80 in the rig right now instead. FML.
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Seems thats the way it goes LOL. Im not overly hard on my Jeep but I also have a hard time backing down from a challenge lol. I fugred an XD60/PR60 combo would give me a lot more piece of mind and, a lot more options as far as group runs and overall increas the fun factor a bit. :brows:
 
Anyone on here actually pulled the trigger on this Trail Leader Package?

I'm looking into possibly doing it later this year. I don't ever see needing 60s, so I think this would be the right choice for what I do. I WANT to do the install myself also. I'm ready to buy the needed tools to do the gears in the rear and I have another vehicle to drive so I can take my time.

Any advice or experience is welcome.
 
Stotch said:
I guess PR44/PR60 wouldn't be THAT much more... Sure is a slippery slope.
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Semi float 60 is pointless, in my opinion. You don’t eliminate the bent flange risk of the SF 44. You get the benefit of safely going to 5.38s, which is necessary for 40s and nice for 37s. But running 40s on the PR44 front is not recommended. Nor is running 5.38s. So you’re left with 37s on 5.13s. Can do that with a PR44 and 44 rear. I really don’t see the point in the PR44/SF60 package.

The PR44 in the trail leader package is fully assembled and so should be easy to install. Plumbing the locker will probably be the hardest part, which won’t be that hard.

The rear will be more complicated, as you’ll be changing out the carrier for the arb, redoing the gears, plumbing the locker (including drilling and tapping the housing), and removing and installing carrier and pinion bearings and pinion seals. You’ll need some specialty tools and it will take a while. Honestly, having done a half dozen or so regears myself, I’d suggest you just find a trustworthy shop to do that part. It’s a great project to have done yourself, but a PITA project to do yourself, if you know what I mean.
 
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Stotch said:
Anyone on here actually pulled the trigger on this Trail Leader Package?

I'm looking into possibly doing it later this year. I don't ever see needing 60s, so I think this would be the right choice for what I do. I WANT to do the install myself also. I'm ready to buy the needed tools to do the gears in the rear and I have another vehicle to drive so I can take my time.

Any advice or experience is welcome.
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I did! So I went back and forth so many times on what I wanted to do. So with the trail leader package you have to add in the cost of at a minimum new front drive shaft and the cost of setting up the rear gears and locker. For me I went 1350 because you might as well and it cost me $1000 for the shop to do my rear set up. So that added about 1650 to the cost of the trail leader. I was so tempted to just go 44/60 but then you are still looking at 2 new driveshafts which if you go 1350 is an extra 1300. Ultimately the reason I didn't end up going 60 semi float rear is the reccomendations I got from people here saying that the most likely thing your going to break in the rear is bending a flang on the axle shaft and that will happen with the 44 and 60 just the same. With the 60 rear you will get a bigger ring and pinion but I went with 4.88s instead of 5.13 or bigger just to be a little conservative with the pinion size. Also being that axles was one of the first things I did to my build I still have more money I want to spend on other things so the trail leader should be all the strength I need for 37s. I never broke anything on 37s on my last JKU and now my rear is even stronger than the rubi rear so I don't expect it to be an issue. The only thing I had to do with my front PR44 was cut off the hydro assist bracket because I'm low enough to not need a drag link flip for now and it was hitting the drag link at 75% turn. Also the raised track bar bracket cause me to run more bump stop than I would have normally but like I said I'm only at 1.5" ish of lift and 33s for the time being so it will work out better when I go to 3" and 37s

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I did, and am very happy with it. I think as long as you are honest with yourself about your end goal it is not a bad route to go. I never plan to run bigger than 37s and set mine up with 5.13s and 1350 shafts. I have confidence that the combo is plenty strong for when my ego gets me into spots that I otherwise might have avoided [emoji6]


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fiend said:
Semi float 60 is pointless, in my opinion. You don’t eliminate the bent flange risk of the SF 44. You get the benefit of safely going to 5.38s, which is necessary for 40s and nice for 37s. But running 40s on the PR44 front is not recommended. Nor is running 5.38s. So you’re left with 37s on 5.13s. Can do that with a PR44 and 44 rear. I really don’t see the point in the PR44/SF60 package.

The PR44 in the trail leader package is fully assembled and so should be easy to install. Plumbing the locker will probably be the hardest part, which won’t be that hard.

The rear will be more complicated, as you’ll be changing out the carrier for the arb, redoing the gears, plumbing the locker (including drilling and tapping the housing), and removing and installing carrier and pinion bearings and pinion seals. You’ll need some specialty tools and it will take a while. Honestly, having done a half dozen or so regears myself, I’d suggest you just find a trustworthy shop to do that part. It’s a great project to have done yourself, but a PITA project to do yourself, if you know what I mean.
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I see what you mean. I don't see myself ever going higher than 37s. Gears will be 4.88 (5.13 max) since I have the 3.8L with a 6 speed, so no real benefit there either.

desertrunner said:
I did! So I went back and forth so many times on what I wanted to do. So with the trail leader package you have to add in the cost of at a minimum new front drive shaft and the cost of setting up the rear gears and locker. For me I went 1350 because you might as well and it cost me $1000 for the shop to do my rear set up. So that added about 1650 to the cost of the trail leader. I was so tempted to just go 44/60 but then you are still looking at 2 new driveshafts which if you go 1350 is an extra 1300. Ultimately the reason I didn't end up going 60 semi float rear is the reccomendations I got from people here saying that the most likely thing your going to break in the rear is bending a flang on the axle shaft and that will happen with the 44 and 60 just the same. With the 60 rear you will get a bigger ring and pinion but I went with 4.88s instead of 5.13 or bigger just to be a little conservative with the pinion size. Also being that axles was one of the first things I did to my build I still have more money I want to spend on other things so the trail leader should be all the strength I need for 37s. I never broke anything on 37s on my last JKU and now my rear is even stronger than the rubi rear so I don't expect it to be an issue. The only thing I had to do with my front PR44 was cut off the hydro assist bracket because I'm low enough to not need a drag link flip for now and it was hitting the drag link at 75% turn. Also the raised track bar bracket cause me to run more bump stop than I would have normally but like I said I'm only at 1.5" ish of lift and 33s for the time being so it will work out better when I go to 3" and 37s
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Good to know, thanks! I would probably be upgrading the drive shafts also... haven't really decided for sure yet, but I know mine are near the end of their useful life anyway.

QuicksilverJK said:
I did, and am very happy with it. I think as long as you are honest with yourself about your end goal it is not a bad route to go. I never plan to run bigger than 37s and set mine up with 5.13s and 1350 shafts. I have confidence that the combo is plenty strong for when my ego gets me into spots that I otherwise might have avoided [emoji6]
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input! I think I have a similar mindset.

It's sounding like if I go with a new axle/upgrade kit, then this is what I'm leaning toward. Otherwise, I may consider doing a used axle swap depending on what I can find around town and at the local shops. There's one, maybe two shops that I'd trust to do the work, but I really like turning the wrenches myself. We'll see...
 
Stotch said:
Anyone on here actually pulled the trigger on this Trail Leader Package?

I'm looking into possibly doing it later this year. I don't ever see needing 60s, so I think this would be the right choice for what I do. I WANT to do the install myself also. I'm ready to buy the needed tools to do the gears in the rear and I have another vehicle to drive so I can take my time.

Any advice or experience is welcome.
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Talk to Exodus Jeep. Bubba just built me one. He is great to deal with.


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RESURECTIONJK said:
Thanks for all the good feedbackk. Ive decided to hold off until I can swing a PR60/PR60FF package. Buy once cry once I guess. After going back through some of the WAYALIFE vids Ive seen where a lot of the guys ended up with the PR60's anyway after breaking the 44's and more than once. So, for now, any advice on long arm kits and driveshafts?
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I think you will not regret going with PRXD60's...it will be worth the wait (and weight)...

I've run three sets of JE Reels shafts on 3 different jeeps...they make a quality product...

EVO makes a quality long arm kit...hard to go wrong there...
 
Stotch said:
Oohh... Hmmmm......
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Yep a pr44 front with Rubi locker and chromoly shafts and hi pinion pr60ff rear with Arb both with 5.38s 37x13.50r17 Cooper stt pros and slabs. They are setup for DTD and evolever so would require some work to fit anything else but I know bubba could take care of that too.

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