WJCO
Meme King
I recall them being red.That's what I needed to know.
Assuming the "Greenstuff"?
I recall them being red.That's what I needed to know.
Assuming the "Greenstuff"?
I recall them being red.
To be fair, the dust means they’re soft and wearing well. It’s a sign they’re doing their job well. Pads that don’t wear fast also don’t stop well. OEM is the only other pads that I like a lot.Thread Resurrection!
My brake pads are in need of replacement. Dynatrac has their pads on sale for $98 ea for front and rear. I see some other options on this thread. The Dynatrac pads work great but they're just so damn dusty. Anyone tried other pads that perform the same with less dust? All options and opinions are appreciated.
Thanks for the info. I did not know that. Ironically these pads have lasted nearly twice as long as my first set of OEM rears...haha. I thought $100 was a lot for pads but once you start looking at other "performance" pads they're actually cheaper. Still more than other options but actually cheaper than Mopar OEM pads.To be fair, the dust means they’re soft and wearing well. It’s a sign they’re doing their job well. Pads that don’t wear fast also don’t stop well. OEM is the only other pads that I like a lot.
I've gotten stopping power, life and little dust from Wagner OEx brake pads, use them on my 2010 JKU with Dynatrac setup, Cooper STT 37x13.5x17Thread Resurrection!
My brake pads are in need of replacement. Dynatrac has their pads on sale for $98 ea for front and rear. I see some other options on this thread. The Dynatrac pads work great but they're just so damn dusty. Anyone tried other pads that perform the same with less dust? All options and opinions are appreciated.
A new pad on an old rotor can cause noise or vibration. Even a rotor that looks great, you can't see the true flatness with the human eye. I've done many brake jobs where a customer request a pad slap only and I recall a few times where they came back and said the brakes were squeaking afterwards.To turn or not to turn (rotors) that is the question.
In all the brake jobs I've done I've always had the rotors turned. It's just what I was taught to do. However is this practice really necessary if you're rotors seem to bear wearing evenly and no vibrations from a warped rotor? I'm going to be doing mine in the coming week and was looking for opinions on this practice. Obviously it'll be quicker and easier to pad slap it but if this can lead to issues down the road I'll have them turned.
I check them with the edge of a steel ruler or a dial indicator to determine if I should get them turned.To turn or not to turn (rotors) that is the question.
In all the brake jobs I've done I've always had the rotors turned. It's just what I was taught to do. However is this practice really necessary if you're rotors seem to bear wearing evenly and no vibrations from a warped rotor? I'm going to be doing mine in the coming week and was looking for opinions on this practice. Obviously it'll be quicker and easier to pad slap it but if this can lead to issues down the road I'll have them turned.
A new pad on an old rotor can cause noise or vibration. Even a rotor that looks great, you can't see the true flatness with the human eye. I've done many brake jobs where a customer request a pad slap only and I recall a few times where they came back and said the brakes were squeaking afterwards.
Thanks for the information. That makes sense. I'll probably get them turned.I check them with the edge of a steel ruler or a dial indicator to determine if I should get them turned.
sometimes I'm surprised how out they are when they looked fine