Driveshaft
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ClarksAdventures
New member
Regular and heavy duty.
Different steels if I understand them correctly. I went with the 1310 since I have stock 44's for axles. Maybe some others guy can chime in.
But my understanding is big tires, axles, and motors need the 1350.
Different steels if I understand them correctly. I went with the 1310 since I have stock 44's for axles. Maybe some others guy can chime in.
But my understanding is big tires, axles, and motors need the 1350.
ERAUGrad04
Caught the Bug
The linked thread has some good info, but some food for thought is the 1310 is actually slightly weaker than the factory front driveshaft. IIRC, the front utilizes a 1330 u-joint.
I've run both and both are great choices. Coast uses Spicer joints and JE Reel uses Neapco - again, both are great options.
On a 2-door, I would start saving for a new rear shaft at 3" of actual lift or more. It's short length will put your CV boots in a constant state of pinch and that will cause them to fail prematurely. On a 4-door, you can run your factory rear will up into the 4" range. You WILL need adjustable rear upper control arms when you install a rear shaft to set your pinion angle.
BlueBox
New member
What perfect timing of this thread, hope its OK if I piggy back a related question.
How long can I expect the stock front driveshaft to last on a RK 2.5" lift? I just got an alignment and I'm at 6.5* caster right now (yikes!). Plan to dial that back to around 4, but I've got about 200 miles driven as is. No tears or vibes yet, but the more I read it seems as though its only a matter of time with the setup on a 2012+.
I'm planning on keeping it on until the boot rips and it starts flinging grease, that sound about right?
How long can I expect the stock front driveshaft to last on a RK 2.5" lift? I just got an alignment and I'm at 6.5* caster right now (yikes!). Plan to dial that back to around 4, but I've got about 200 miles driven as is. No tears or vibes yet, but the more I read it seems as though its only a matter of time with the setup on a 2012+.
I'm planning on keeping it on until the boot rips and it starts flinging grease, that sound about right?
olram30
Not That Kind of Engineer
There is no exact answer. But if you have long shocks, the droop will have your shaft hitting the exhaust.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
If the boot rips it won't necessarily throw grease. The comes from the transfer case end of the driveshaft and I last 40k+ miles on my factory before I swapped in another factory I had laying around.
CJW
New member
Like they said above, it's not exact and depends on what you're driving on. All I can say is what happened to mine. 20K miles and one summer of off-roading and my front one is shot.
BlueBox
New member
Good point. I went with oversized shocks in the front so that's definitely not going to help. Even after the exhaust spacers it was hitting pretty bad when I put the springs in. Can't remember what it looked like at full droop with the shocks in, will have to check.
That's pretty reasonable. What's the failure like? Will it start making noise or is it a sudden explosion? I would really love to avoid a catastrophic transfer case grenading failure at 80mph on the way to work if possible. If spending an extra 600 bucks on a new driveshaft is what I need to do that I just might.
I assume the DC shaft like a JE Reel will alleviate my droop problems as well?
Mikead40
New member
If it's due to droop/exhaust contact, it will likely look like this. This happened suddenly while my front end was a full drop (3.5 inch lift). I replaced it with a 1310 Tatton drive shaft. In retrospect I shouldve gone with a 1350. I recently replaced my rear one with a brand new factory one (it was free) because it has taken a beating and was starting to give me some vibration. So I guess to answer your question it can happen either suddenly (like my front) or slowly (like my rear), but I would think that as long as you're not making continuous contact with your exhaust, the likelihood of it happening suddenly on your way to work is pretty low.
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OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
That isn't going to happen while driving down the road.
CJW
New member
Mine didn't twist off like the one shown above. Personally I think that's a bit extreme. Almost like it had a dent in it to begin with.... But I wasn't there to see so what do I know.
First thing to go is usually the boot on the slip joint above the exhaust. No big deal though. Then for me it was the boot at the transfer case. Over time it slowly started leaking and slinging grease (look at the body tub above the exhaust for grease spots). After a while it developed slop in that joint. Then it started clicking. That's when I bought a new one.
First thing to go is usually the boot on the slip joint above the exhaust. No big deal though. Then for me it was the boot at the transfer case. Over time it slowly started leaking and slinging grease (look at the body tub above the exhaust for grease spots). After a while it developed slop in that joint. Then it started clicking. That's when I bought a new one.