Driver Rear Caliper Dragging

[weck]

2008 JKU Rubicon with Stock axles/brakes

Noticed my driver rear pads were really worn during a tire rotation. Ordered all new pads/rotors to do all 4 corners. Got them all changed out and the rest weren't horrible but the driver rear was really worn down (almost to metal). Noticed after the new pads and rotors that it was dragging. Pins were all greased. Figured sticky caliper so I replaced the caliper as they aren't that expensive. Same thing, still dragging. Had new hoses already so figured I would put this one on. Same thing, still dragging. other 3 corners are fine, it is only the rear driver side that is dragging. I also removed the majority of the fluid in the reservoir and put new fluid in and bled from the driver rear until it was new fluid. I am going to go try to bleed some more in a minute but figured I would post on here in case I am missing something. Thanks for any ideas.

 

[wayoflife]

Could be that you have a bad speed sensor. This would can cause your ESP system to kick in more than normal and that would lead to significant wearing of the brake pads.

 

[WJCO]

2008 JKU Rubicon with Stock axles/brakes

Noticed my driver rear pads were really worn during a tire rotation. Ordered all new pads/rotors to do all 4 corners. Got them all changed out and the rest weren't horrible but the driver rear was really worn down (almost to metal). Noticed after the new pads and rotors that it was dragging. Pins were all greased. Figured sticky caliper so I replaced the caliper as they aren't that expensive. Same thing, still dragging. Had new hoses already so figured I would put this one on. Same thing, still dragging. other 3 corners are fine, it is only the rear driver side that is dragging. I also removed the majority of the fluid in the reservoir and put new fluid in and bled from the driver rear until it was new fluid. I am going to go try to bleed some more in a minute but figured I would post on here in case I am missing something. Thanks for any ideas.

E brake shoes inside the drum stuck in extended position maybe? Being that you've changed everything hydraulically, I would look into something more mechanical. Even if there was a bad proportioning valve, it should affect both rears and not just one side.

 

[weck]

Could be that you have a bad speed sensor. This would can cause your ESP system to kick in more than normal and that would lead to significant wearing of the brake pads.

I did change the rears last summer due to an issue. Wouldn't that cause a warning light if it was bad? maybe not if it was flaky?

E brake shoes inside the drum stuck in extended position maybe? Being that you've changed everything hydraulically, I would look into something more mechanical. Even if there was a bad proportioning valve, it should affect both rears and not just one side.

I did check this and it is definitely the caliper. it's like it isn't releasing. with the caliper off it spins freely with no dragging.


thanks for the ideas.


Also, just bled quite a bit more through. no air bubbles and nice new fluid coming out.

 

[WJCO]

I did check this and it is definitely the caliper. it's like it isn't releasing. with the caliper off it spins freely with no dragging.


thanks for the ideas.

With the caliper installed and wheel dragging, open the bleeder screw and see if the dragging stops or not. That will tell you if it's the caliper itself or something in the hose/line.

 

[weck]

Could be that you have a bad speed sensor. This would can cause your ESP system to kick in more than normal and that would lead to significant wearing of the brake pads.

So since I am part hoarder I still had the 1 good rear speed sensor since I had replaced them in a pair. Cleaned it good and put it in. No change.

With the caliper installed and wheel dragging, open the bleeder screw and see if the dragging stops or not. That will tell you if it's the caliper itself or something in the hose/line.

dragging seemed the same? I vacuum bled it and also pedal bled it the last time. during the pedal bleed it was pushing good fluid. I believe I mentioned this, but the old caliper and the new caliper seem to be doing the exact same thing.

 

[WJCO]

dragging seemed the same? I vacuum bled it and also pedal bled it the last time. during the pedal bleed it was pushing good fluid. I believe I mentioned this, but the old caliper and the new caliper seem to be doing the exact same thing.

Have you ever been in an accident on that side? As in another vehicle hit your wheel or something like that? I had a caliper bracket bend from that and it wasn't visually detectable.

 

[weck]

Have you ever been in an accident on that side? As in another vehicle hit your wheel or something like that? I had a caliper bracket bend from that and it wasn't visually detectable.

No accidents. New caliper came with a new bracket.

Thanks for the help.

 

[CalSgt]

Bent axle flange? Warped rotor? Rotor thickness to spec? Bent caliper flange? Correct pads installed?

 

[weck]

Bent axle flange? Warped rotor? Rotor thickness to spec? Bent caliper flange? Correct pads installed?

All super good ideas.

So in the conclusion of this ordeal, the backing plate was 90% of the issue. Previous person (not me) who did brakes must have bent it enough to push the inside pad in to wear it down. this would explain why that one was almost to metal when I was changing them out. Couldn't get it bent quite right back so I ended up snipping a bit off. this allows the inside pad to fully disengage now.

Moral of the story, always check them back plates.

thanks everyone for the ideas, appreciate it.

 

[jdofmemi]

Glad you got it sorted out