Gonna do it tomorrow. Cut the top of the bolt off thinking if I got a little more space to put some downward pressure on I could smash it out of there but its still in there really good. The hackzall I bought isn't strong enough to cut through the bottom of the drag link bolt so I am going to stop for the day and get a torch tomorrow.
Drag Link won't unthread
- Thread starter NME
- Start date
Snboarder113
Hooked
This. First heat. Then cut. Have a plan, then a back up plan. Air you cut the top off it’s still not just gonna “fall” out you’re gonna need to get on top of it and use a punch or something to drive down which likely means removing arm. Etc etc. start simple move up in destruction.
J&k_Overland
Active Member
I’d have cut the pitman arm off by now and been drinking beer waiting on the new one to show up
you sir have way more patience than I
you sir have way more patience than I
I put a slightly smaller size nut over the cut bolt and tightened a c clamp to put some pressure on the bolt while I went back at it with the sledge and pickle fork. Still just as stuck. I am gonna go for the heat tomorrow.
Lol. I won't lie man, I almost went there yesterday. Will go there if fire doesn't work.
Snboarder113
Hooked
This shouldnt be an issue with how thick of steel the pitman arm is and the relatively low temp of a propane torch, but yeah keep it pointed where you need it not up towards the box. Also if heat alone wont get it to budge, heat the shit out of it and then spray pb at the bolt/hole repeat if necessary. The oil cools it a bit and causes the metal to shrink as well as suck "down" the oil. Good trick for rusty/ stuck bolts.
jdofmemi
Active Member
I have had luck with using a long bar, 5 or 6 foot, prying down on the drag link as close as you can to the pitman arm. At the same time, hit the pitman arm from the side, while it is up against the limit of movement. I mean hit it, hard, with a Big F'ing Hammer. Have a friend hold the tension on the bar, if you can find a friend.
Heating the end of the pitman arm prior to prying and beating helps.
Some may take a lot of attitude adjustment, but I've never met one more stubborn than me. They will come apart.
Oh, cutting the bolt won't necessarily help, but will remove leverage you can use to help pry from.
In your picture with the pickle fork, I don't see any flattened spots on the outside off the pitman arm, which there will be if you are hitting it hard enough with a BFH
Heating the end of the pitman arm prior to prying and beating helps.
Some may take a lot of attitude adjustment, but I've never met one more stubborn than me. They will come apart.
Oh, cutting the bolt won't necessarily help, but will remove leverage you can use to help pry from.
In your picture with the pickle fork, I don't see any flattened spots on the outside off the pitman arm, which there will be if you are hitting it hard enough with a BFH
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Remove pitman arm and drag link together, place in bench vise and slam that fucking thing with sledge hammer.
CalSgt
Hooked
This is how I do it too, hold a big ball peen on the arm & smack the shit out of it with a BFH. This also allows a little more room to get a proper swing
MericaMade
Active Member
Agree.
Yeah I might just do this. I am working in a pretty tight space so I can't get a really good swing in with a sledge. I have the 4lb mallet but still don't feel like I am getting enough momentum. So I am going to try the heat and beat method but if it doesn't work I am just going to take the arm off and work on it outside with a BFH.
J&k_Overland
Active Member
Pull it off take to a machine shop have it pressed off. I assuming you didn’t have a press
The only thing with the gear puller is the space around the pitman arm doesn't really leave me anywhere to crank it down. I could definitely, and I will, use one if I have to remove the whole arm.
No it is a 4lb mini sledge hammer. Steel head, the shortness of it is why I say mallet but it is a steel sledge hammer.
CalSgt
Hooked
Moog and a few other companies make TRE pullers that look like they were designed to get above a pitman arm. Unlike traditional pullers they have a fork on one side and a anvil on the other that pushes down on the threaded end of the joint. Maybe O'Reilly's has one available as a loaner tool.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2109/moog-tie-rod-end-tool/moo0/t40007?pos=32
Slimebones
Active Member
Apply pressure with this tool, then apply heat with torch, then hit with sledge. Should pop right off. Although you probably have it off by now.